Just got my megan racing resonated test pipes in the mail. do the stock cats bolt on just like the test pipes are goin to? or do i have to have a shop weld on flanges? And if its just a bolt on, how simple was it for you guys to do? thanks

 

It's a bolt-on only mod, but can be a pain unless you have a lift. I did it with just a pair of rhino ramps and it took me about 3 hours at a leisurely pace, not much space to work under there. You will need several ratchet extensions to get to the manifold bolts, there is a thread on my350z.com with pics and more details about the install...

 

i tired to search but registration is disabled so i cannot find it, can u copy it and post, thanks a lot

 

I have done this a couple of times with jack stands while laying on my back and I can tell you that without a doubt the hardest part will be breaking the nuts loose on the cats (they must be male ). I used two extensions--a 20 inch and 12 inch and a large breaker bar. As best you can, spray the nuts and the treads with penetrating oil prior too your first attempt at loosening them. Do not spray any penetrating oil on or near the O2 censors. Be careful when you take out the O2 censors--not to drop them or to get any type of substance on them. Once the cats are out, the test pipes are a direct bolt in item.

 

Torque wrench is highly recommended.

 

torque to what specs? or are you talkin about braking them loose with a torque wrench? btw thanks to all you for the tips

 

If anyone else wants a set.....mine are for sale.
They sound great.....just too loud for my taste with my other exhaust mods.
PM me if interested.

 

I think Copbait was referring to breaking the nuts loose using a torque wrench. Of course if I'm wrong, I expect he will correct me!!

As tight as those nuts are, make sure you are using good quality sockets. There are three nuts on the inlet side of each cat. On the right side, two of the nuts are accessible from the engine compartment, using the extensions. On the driver’s side, I was only able to get to one of the nuts from the top side and had to remove the other two from the bottom. The outlet side has two nuts each and these are easy to get at. You may encounter some frustration with the right-side O2 sensor. You can either remove the O2 sensors first while the cats are still bolted in or wait until the cats are out. With the cats bolted in, you will have more leverage but they are not quite as easy to get at. A seemingly simple task, which might prove to be somewhat frustrating at first, will be disconnecting the O2 sensor wiring coupler. A small straight-blade screw driver for pressing (not prying) might help!!!!

 

thanx a lot azcougarman, i installed these last night, wut a biotch. Prolly the best mod ive done yet for noticable gains. Sounds mean as hell, almost too mean with my injen intake/ses exhaust combo. After putting on about 100 miles it, it no longer has a smell to it, very suprised, and no CEL, ill keep my fingers crossed. Overal im very impressed and would highly recomend these pipes. I have a new found love for tunnels if you know what i mean...

 

I know what you mean about tunnels--with the Stillen Cat-Back System tunnels are way cool. When I had my test pipes installed it took two days before I got a CEL. Most people I have spoken with have never gotten a CEL. The power gains are phenominal, especially up top near the redline. I am going to the drag races this Friday night. When I ran the 14.38 I had the intake mods as mentioned below, test pipes, and stock exhaust. Now I have the Stillen Cat-Back System, and the Helix Hi-Flow Cats. With a Reasonable 60 foot time, I am hoping for very low 14's. By the way, you're welcome!!

 

hmm.. I highly dont recommend using a torque wrench to loosen the bolts, unless you want it to be out of spec.... to loosen bolts use a breaking bar, that is what is is made for.

 

I used the torque wrench to both loosen and tighten the bolts. It's similar to a breaker bar, but safer because it flexes more so you can fine tune the amount of torque, as well as having a torque meter built in so you can dial it in very close.

Here is what my Crafstman torque wrench looks like:



Maybe you are thinking of an air or impact wrench? You are probably ok to use an air wrench to loosen but not for tightening as they are less accurate.

 

NEVER use a torque wrench to break bolts loose. If you take that same torque wrench and have it re-calibrated you will probably find that it is off by more than 10%.

 

^he's right, torque wrenches should NEVER be used for breaking bolts loose, from my understanding they are ONLY to be used to set bolts back to spec torque levels (ie. tightening).

 

Also, to answer the posters initial question, the install is a PITA. If you can get someone with a lift to do the install for $50, DO IT! (I did, and I'd do it again for sure)

Wanna read a review, do an advanced search for posts by CATATAFISH and "Cats" and or "cat install".