Took the car to an autozone to use the obd scanner and it marked the following codes:
P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1
P1168 Closed Loop Fault Detected (Bank 2)
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0057 H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
P1031
P1051
P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1
P1168 Closed Loop Fault Detected (Bank 2)
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0057 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
P1031
P1051
P0300 Random misfire detected
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 2)

Autozone did recommend replacing the MAF sensor, however, I do see O2 sensor codes on there. Note: my car is needing an oil change which I will do later today to see if it makes a difference in codes being marked (Ex.P0021). I've taken it upon myself to finally start fixing my own car with the help of my buddy so I lack car knowledge. Any help, is greatly appreciated.

Edited: So I changed my oil and oil filter, cleaned my MAF sensor, switched an MAF hose, changed my air filter and cleaned my throttle body. Knocked it down to codes P1051, P1031, P1168, P1148. Checked my fuses and noticed my O2 fuse was burnt so I replaced it. As of now no more codes!

 

The chances of all 4 O2 sensors failing is low, I suspect that your random misfire is the major culprit and possibly a wiring issue.

First and foremost, CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL, typically things like a P0021 is caused by being severely low on oil. This engines are thirsty so you should be checking your oil level weekly on a cold engine, preferrably in the morning before it's been started.

Next get the random misfire under control, pull and inspect the plugs. If you have more than 60k miles on the plugs just replace them, NGK PLFR5-11. While you have the coil packs off inspect any of them for blistering of the epoxy resin encapsulation (black shiny part on top), scorching of the well tube, corrosion on the contact spring inside the well tube. Also inspect your spark plug well tubes for OIL accumulating. A common cause of random misfires is leaking well tube seals saturating the spark plugs in oil. Replace any coil packs that look cooked.

Then, clean the MAF, it's cheap, just use a bottle of MAF cleaner (never spray anything other than MAF cleaner into a mass airflow sensor), spray it down well, let it dry, reinstall and check for any cracks in the flexible duct sections of the intake tract.

Also look for vacuum leaks in the PCV hoses, if you can turn them by hand easily at the attachment point then it's leaking air, add/tighten hose clamps as needed.

Now you're ready to clean up the battery and grounding system. Disconnect the battery, use a wire brush and polish all the metal until it's shiny, this includes unbolting the fusible link (box thingy that's bolted to the positive terminal) and cleaning all those connection points as well. Disconnect the negative battery cable where it bolts to the chassis, clean it too. Remove the 10mm bolt from the coolant reservoir, lift it straight up (leave hose attached) so you can access the engine bonding jumper below it, same 2-hole lug as the negative chassis lug, the other end of it bolts to the right side of the timing chain cover. Lastly there is a 1 or 2 (6MT only has 1, 5AT has 2) bolts at the top of the timing chain cover.

Wire brush everything including bolt threads, apply a thin layer (just use your fingertips and lightly coat threads, lugs, all mating metal parts including chassis/engine) of electrical anti-oxidation grease. It's inexpensive, you need a small wire brush and a $2 packet of electrical anti-oxidation grease from a parts house, these cars are basically just sophisticated computers and having electrical issues quickly snowballs into throwing various codes. You want to rule everything out that's the cheap/easy problems.

While the battery is disconnected pump the brakes a couple times to bleed off any stored energy, this will reset the ECM and clear any codes as well as reset the baseline LTFT so you can start FRESH on those new plugs.

See what codes come back. I'm guessing you are low on oil, have either really old plugs or leaking well tube seals. If you are still tossing the O2 sensor codes get the vehicle up on a lift or stands and look for any melted/damaged wiring for the O2 sensors. If everything looks ok then inspect THOROUGHLY for any exhaust leaks. Bad gaskets or leaks at the header/cats will cause O2 sensor codes but not typically the heater codes you are getting.

If the codes won't clear and everything looks good then replace ONE of the upstream O2 sensors and see if it fixes the issue, if it doesn't then you likely have other issues causing the O2 sensor failure, no sense replacing all 4 (expensive) if it won't fix the problem.

That's a good place to start, codes tend to snowball and add more codes so getting to the actual problem can be tricky.

 

Also P0021 isn't "over advanced" basically it's "the ECM is sending out signal to move the cam to a certain point and the sensor is saying it is at a different point". Usually caused by low oil pressure (low oil level), sometimes by additives that people add to their oil like engine restorer crap. Sometimes it's just the VTC solenoid is worn out, you can remove and bench test it to make sure all the valves snap open properly, there should be youtube video's on how to do this.

Start with the oil change though, save this repair for last, after you get all the O2 sensor stuff squared away.