Folks! Finally got around to installing a subwoofer to the Sedan after years, and years of slacking.

I went with a easy to setup/install Rockford Fosgate, its a self enclosure 12" sub w/amp, 300 watt RMS. We're not talking high end. I followed a guide, have all the wires ran, setup, ready to go. But I've got a question around the best wires to tap in to for the single. The current approach I have taken is not working. THought I'd get some feedback before changing it.

Currently I've tapped the Front Right, and Front left speakers "Pre-Amp" going from head unit, to the BOSE Amp. I've got the stock premium bose system. Their are 2 connectors, one that goes in to the AMP From the head unit, one that goes out of the amp to the various speakers.

What I've done now, which is incorrect is:
1) Power - 8 Gauge, Ground 8 Gauge (Drilled a new hole in to frame behind seats. I'm going to change this because I dont feel its secure enough or may not have enough metal connection).
2) Leveraging the "Auto on feature" from the Audio Signal, rather then any remote on. I may change this because I believe their is an AMP on signal.
3) Leveraged the PREAMP Left Front and Right Front speakers. I'm tapping in to these speakers using a LINE OUT CONVERTER, its an old cheap one I had from a previous setup. This provide RCA connections, which then plug in to the woofer RCA Cables.

** Issue, right now the front left and front right door speakers make almost no sound. And unless I turn it up above 60%, it doesnt even signal the NEW amp in the trunk to turn on. Very little comes out of the amp in the trunk.

My initial thoughts are, the new AMP is also designed to accept high level inputs, you can cut the RCA plugs and tap in to a speaker line out. That was going to be my first attempt at fixing the situation and changing the grounding wire.

What I dont know/understand is the PreAmp vs the Speaker Line Out, and if I'll need any kind of line out converter. And if the head unit has power limitations and my only option is to tap a subwoofer in the trunk or speaker line out (Front/Rear etc).


Amp setup : http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p300-12

- Shows "Separate low level and speaker level inputs" But its a matter of cutting the RCA connectors off and then its a high level input vs PREMAP input. I'm assuming I'm not pushing enough volts from my headunit to drive everything, which is why the signal dies to my existing speakers (Tweeters still work fine up front).

 

Fixed, I tapped in to the output wires to the front left and front right subwoofer door speakers. They're a bit thicker wires and by leveraging that signal from (amp to speakers), I was able to directly connect them to the amp using high inputs (no additional LOC unit, threw that out). Now I get the signal, and I use the "Auto-On - Detect Audio" feature.

I also tried tapping in to the subwoofer signal but no luck. Needed to be a higher powered signal line to get the job done with this setup. May post a little tutorial later.

 

The LOC is most likely designed to take speaker level inputs, not pre-amp, as you know.

You might want to tap into the rear speaker, I'm sure that bose system has a crossover implemented to prevent the front speakers from seeing low frequencies. Probably not what you want to hear after all that work!! I tapped into my RR speaker, and tucked the LOC behind the seatbelt trim next to the passenger seat.

Nice job though, car audio is now under your belt.

 

I appreciate that feedback, but I'm not sure I agree. My system is the 14? speaker bose premium package. The front wiring is broken up by front door woofer, and front door tweeter. I tapped into the front door woofer channel, which are the thicker gauge wiring, such as 14 gauge instead of 18 gauge speaker wire. So I know its designed for the lower frequency higher power sound. The amp doesnt need LOC, it can accept Low (RCA) or High (Wire) directly, so it was a simple $10 accessory I didnt end up needing (But I agree, it would have worked fine if I used the right speaker wires to begin with!).

Does that make sense? Obviously I want to get this right out the door!

 

[QUOTE=JustinMKN1;7020806]I appreciate that feedback, but I'm not sure I agree. My system is the 14? speaker bose premium package. The front wiring is broken up by front door woofer, and front door tweeter. I tapped into the front door woofer channel, which are the thicker gauge wiring, such as 14 gauge instead of 18 gauge speaker wire. So I know its designed for the lower frequency higher power sound. The amp doesnt need LOC, it can accept Low (RCA) or High (Wire) directly, so it was a simple $10 accessory I didnt end up needing (But I agree, it would have worked fine if I used the right speaker wires to begin with!).

Does that make sense? Obviously I want to get this right out the door!

Yes! You're good. Pardon my ignorance. I don't have the bose system to know that!