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New Dyno Run & Video

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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 08:06 AM
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New Dyno Run & Video

Previous Dyno Run
Mods: Stillen CBE and Injen CAI, No TUNE
Numbers: 252.7whp

New Dyno Run
Mods: Stillen CBE, Injen CAI and Invidia HFC, No TUNE
Numbers: 259.7whp



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So I gained 7whp from the Invidia HFC and thats after adding an exhaust and CAI. Not bad!

As you can see my AFR's are absolute crap. Way too lean. G35s-Q8, who has similar mods with a slightly better AFR is experiencing knock at high RPM (timing keeps getting retarded on the data log) and that's with 93oct fuel

Anyhow, I'm hoping I can get Sam@GTM to e-tune it for me. I'll will keep this thread updated with a before and after dyno run for the tune.
 

Last edited by Q8y_drifter; Apr 4, 2010 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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not bad, with a proper tune to fix the AFR you will be making much better number with a better powercurve
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:28 PM
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what gear did you dyno in?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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that was 3rd gear (5AT)
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:44 PM
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it still surprises me that even at "306 at the engine" our cars drivetrain loss brings it back to 260 with bolt ons?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 02:21 PM
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My AFR is really bad. I raced a stock sedan and I was only about a couple car lengths ahead.
Plus if you do the math, 306hp x 20% (drivetrain loss for auto) = 61.2hp. That's about 245whp in stock form. Even with my really bad AFR and knock I'm actually 15whp ahead.

Now, 260whp / 0.8 = 325bhp. I'd get better number's if I was a 6MT.
Let's assume a 6MT is losing 15% to the drivetrain. Thus it makes about 260whp in stock form.
Here's a video I found of a stock 6MT >>

A stock G tuned by Uprev can make about 5-8whp. You can imagine what a modded one with a bad AFR and ignition timing would gain. 280whp is quite possible (280whp / 0.8 = 350bhp). I will see what G35s-Q8 gets from his tune
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 02:37 PM
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Thanks for the awesome info man! Is there any way to eliminate or lessen auto drivetrain loss? I'm an 08 g35s 5at too.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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lighter wheels and tires, lighter rotors, custom carbon driveshaft (vs. stock metal). Basically make any rotating parts lighter including engine internals.

EDIT: So after checking with stock AFR numbers, almost all G's (HR and VHR) are at a 12:1 ratio as soon as they switch to open loop map starting from about 3K RPM to 7.5K)
 

Last edited by Q8y_drifter; Apr 4, 2010 at 03:12 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 04:24 AM
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Nice info, Im having the same problems on a stock engine. My car threw out a check engine for running to rich.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 04:49 AM
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Car sounds good Q8y, so why haven't you gotten a remap? or a tune? does the dyno place not offer it?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 05:01 AM
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The dyno place can just barely run the dyno. There aren't any certified tuners here for Uprev or Cobb. Just Haltech, Motec, Utec and other standalone systems usually used by 500+whp cars.

My tune will be done by GTM using Uprev. It costs $600, which is not cheap but then again I get a $200 Cipher cable and software as well as the ability to use the same system to tune any future SC or TT kit. So basically if I get GTM's SC kit, I can take out the Cipher cable and tuning software which is included in their SC kit (-$600) and just pay $50 for a new map (e-tune).

Oh and I didn't get it yet because I got no money yet lol :P Plus, Sam is really busy with the SC kit, Once he's done with production, I'll get my tune
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 05:33 AM
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Well let me know when you'll be ordering yours because if you're up for it I'll order mine at the same time, maybe we can get a slight discount?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Q8y_drifter
that was 3rd gear (5AT)
Nice #'s. Although, shouldn't you be doing the runs in 4th gear? It's 1:1, unless i'm mistaken.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 08:17 AM
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True, 4th gear is 1:1 but it doesn't matter which gear, there's actually nothing magical about 1:1 ratio in terms of dynoing. both 3rd or 4th gear will be fine for dynoing. 4th will put more stress and heat on the engine since it will be on higher loads (high gear + low RPM + WOT = high loads) more than 3rd gear. 4th gear though is the most mechanical efficiency in the gear box which will actually have just a hair less drivetrain loss compared to all other gears. This would technically raise the whp number by a very small amount (like 1whp), but since the engine is under a bit more heat, then that number is negligible. As long as the dyno is not set to compensate the numbers for a lower or higher ratio then it's okay (I don't know if dyno jet has that option though)
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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^+1 though 1:1 is still preferred and considered "ideal", the 1:1 dyno rule was ruled out a long time back thanks to ppl proving the negligible difference in power, so its not worth stressing your engine on low rpms in 4th gear.
 
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