Rambo's LS1 Build
What are your plans for engine mounting, transmission, drive shaft, fuel system, and electronics? Are you going to retain A/c?
Any reason you decided to leave the crank in without polishing?
Maybe you covered all this already... sorry if i missed it. I constantly run through my "if I had a ton of disposable income engine build scenario" in my head. An LS build is a definite possibility because of the NA possibilities of the engine and $ per HP. It just seems like the engine is the easiest part of the equation and all the other small details are what really makes this difficult.
Either way I like your style! GL with the build.
Any reason you decided to leave the crank in without polishing?
Maybe you covered all this already... sorry if i missed it. I constantly run through my "if I had a ton of disposable income engine build scenario" in my head. An LS build is a definite possibility because of the NA possibilities of the engine and $ per HP. It just seems like the engine is the easiest part of the equation and all the other small details are what really makes this difficult.
Either way I like your style! GL with the build.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 884
Likes: 12
From: Cincinnati, OH
I have not decided if I will use the SIKKY swap or Fueled Racing set up which includes the driveshaft and mounting for the T56 tranny. I am going to swap out the factory fuel pump for a walbro 255. and I will be using a stock tuned ls ecu. I will be retaining factory air for sure and the gauges if possible. There are a few threads on here where they got it to work.
The crank will be polished at the machine shop. The reason why I put the ARP studs in now is that the fastner preload is greater than the that of the stock bolts and it can affect bore concentricity. So when the block is inspected at the shop they will torque the main studs down and inspect.
The crank will be polished at the machine shop. The reason why I put the ARP studs in now is that the fastner preload is greater than the that of the stock bolts and it can affect bore concentricity. So when the block is inspected at the shop they will torque the main studs down and inspect.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 884
Likes: 12
From: Cincinnati, OH
Well Engine is at the machine shop.
List of what is getting done:
1. Clean Block, Valves, Valve Covers, and Heads
2. Inspect and Deck heads flat
3. Magnaflux Crank and Polish
4. Inspect block
5. Bore, hone, and match block to pistons
6. Recondition stock rods with ARP bolts
7. Assemble rods and pistons with pressed in wrist pins
8. Replace cam bearings
9. Full balance of rotating assembly
Should be ready by next friday!!
List of what is getting done:
1. Clean Block, Valves, Valve Covers, and Heads
2. Inspect and Deck heads flat
3. Magnaflux Crank and Polish
4. Inspect block
5. Bore, hone, and match block to pistons
6. Recondition stock rods with ARP bolts
7. Assemble rods and pistons with pressed in wrist pins
8. Replace cam bearings
9. Full balance of rotating assembly
Should be ready by next friday!!
I have not decided if I will use the SIKKY swap or Fueled Racing set up which includes the driveshaft and mounting for the T56 tranny. I am going to swap out the factory fuel pump for a walbro 255. and I will be using a stock tuned ls ecu. I will be retaining factory air for sure and the gauges if possible. There are a few threads on here where they got it to work.
The crank will be polished at the machine shop. The reason why I put the ARP studs in now is that the fastner preload is greater than the that of the stock bolts and it can affect bore concentricity. So when the block is inspected at the shop they will torque the main studs down and inspect.
The crank will be polished at the machine shop. The reason why I put the ARP studs in now is that the fastner preload is greater than the that of the stock bolts and it can affect bore concentricity. So when the block is inspected at the shop they will torque the main studs down and inspect.
I haven't read too thoroughly on getting factory gauges to work but that should be an interesting job. I'm assuming you still have to use the nissan CAN in some fashion?
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 884
Likes: 12
From: Cincinnati, OH
I was actually looking into this today.
I am thinking about using this signal converter from Dakota Digital. Not sure if it will work yet but I think it will. They also have some other options as well...
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd127.htm
I am thinking about using this signal converter from Dakota Digital. Not sure if it will work yet but I think it will. They also have some other options as well...
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd127.htm
I was actually looking into this today.
I am thinking about using this signal converter from Dakota Digital. Not sure if it will work yet but I think it will. They also have some other options as well...
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd127.htm
I am thinking about using this signal converter from Dakota Digital. Not sure if it will work yet but I think it will. They also have some other options as well...
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd127.htm
If you do pursue this product, I'm interested to see how it will work out.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 884
Likes: 12
From: Cincinnati, OH
well found out they are going to have to grind the crank down a few thou instead of just a polish....extra 75 bucks...blahh...o well...better to just get it done right the first time instead of cutting corners.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 884
Likes: 12
From: Cincinnati, OH
Machine shop called today. They are on track for friday completion. They will be balancing the rotating assembly tomorrow.
Last edited by Rambo; Nov 16, 2011 at 10:59 PM.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 884
Likes: 12
From: Cincinnati, OH
I am looking at the short block by Christmas (block needs to be painted and assembled) and the long block(heads, cam, and valve train assembled) by end of January.
