DONE with the G... This is whats NOW
#18
10-12-2010, 10:43 AM
Man, I -just- jumped into a classic Mustang as well...
1966 fastback, 4 speed, 302, signal flare red...
It's the same as grabber, basically.
From what I've learned about classic paint schemes... it all depends on what direction you want to take the car:
1. Trailer Queen, basically one you don't drive, and only take to shows or plan to make $$$ off of. If you go this route, a full resto paint job will cost $10,000+ if done properly (metalwork, trim, etc) It's also smart to paint the car it's original color, it helps with $$$ value of the car.
2. Driver: ~$3000 paint job, do what you want with color, only get the worst things out of the metal, etc.
I'm going route 2. I've had mine for just a month and already spent $1500 having the rusted floor pans, rusted cowl, and cracked shock towers replaced
Be very careful when working on your car, there are big differences between a "body shop" and a "restoration shop"... and also big price differences.
Lmk what you do/how you do it, I've yet to decide what I'm doing with my car
1966 fastback, 4 speed, 302, signal flare red...
It's the same as grabber, basically.
From what I've learned about classic paint schemes... it all depends on what direction you want to take the car:
1. Trailer Queen, basically one you don't drive, and only take to shows or plan to make $$$ off of. If you go this route, a full resto paint job will cost $10,000+ if done properly (metalwork, trim, etc) It's also smart to paint the car it's original color, it helps with $$$ value of the car.
2. Driver: ~$3000 paint job, do what you want with color, only get the worst things out of the metal, etc.
I'm going route 2. I've had mine for just a month and already spent $1500 having the rusted floor pans, rusted cowl, and cracked shock towers replaced
Be very careful when working on your car, there are big differences between a "body shop" and a "restoration shop"... and also big price differences.
Lmk what you do/how you do it, I've yet to decide what I'm doing with my car
My Shock Towers too are cracked and have already started working on fixing those just gonna grind down and weld them dont feel like cutting and molding a new piece of sheet metal
A lot of the body fill was pulled out and what ever was left we weld filled it, grind it down, then sanded down, and a bit of bondo to even it out..
seems like the original color was red aswell so i might just go that route, and do the boss stripes simply because i love that scheme..
ill probably leave it original after im done then start doing resto mods.. lol im already planning to get a Procharger for this thing.. just trying to talk to the right ppl about tuning and what kind of carb i need to run it...
#24
10-12-2010, 05:12 PM
hahahaha Sam.. Maybe.. lol
i have a 351 Windsor.. full balanced.. port and polished heads.. slight bore and chop on the block.. forgot what Cam is in there.. ****s been in the Family since i was 8years old.. lol... i rebuilt the motor about 2 years ago and just threw it back in there...
has a Shelby built C4 Auto
with only 500 miles on it.. haha
i need a 9" rear end for this thing tho.. and a detroit locker
i have a 351 Windsor.. full balanced.. port and polished heads.. slight bore and chop on the block.. forgot what Cam is in there.. ****s been in the Family since i was 8years old.. lol... i rebuilt the motor about 2 years ago and just threw it back in there...
has a Shelby built C4 Auto
with only 500 miles on it.. haha i need a 9" rear end for this thing tho.. and a detroit locker
#26
10-12-2010, 06:18 PM
#28
10-12-2010, 08:40 PM
#30
10-13-2010, 10:41 PM
I too am going with a 351W.
I'm not disputing the choice to go with a procharger, but why not stroke that 351W to a 427? Coast High Performance has a kit that makes 500-600 hp & torque.
I need a 9inch rear too gd it.
What do you think about suspensions?
Global West and Total Control have some nice coilover kits... however, I'm not sure I want coilovers on my 66. I almost like the old feel better.
If you've not looked into it, check out Flaming River steering components. My car currently has the factory power steering, and almost everyone has told me to take that out, and get a manual 16/1 steering box from Flaming River. Really tightens up the car, and makes it feel better. Also clears out a lot of junk from the front axle, allowing room for headers, etc.
I'm not disputing the choice to go with a procharger, but why not stroke that 351W to a 427? Coast High Performance has a kit that makes 500-600 hp & torque.
I need a 9inch rear too
gd it. What do you think about suspensions?
Global West and Total Control have some nice coilover kits... however, I'm not sure I want coilovers on my 66. I almost like the old feel better.
If you've not looked into it, check out Flaming River steering components. My car currently has the factory power steering, and almost everyone has told me to take that out, and get a manual 16/1 steering box from Flaming River. Really tightens up the car, and makes it feel better. Also clears out a lot of junk from the front axle, allowing room for headers, etc.