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5AT 3.5 final drive differential swap.

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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 12:03 PM
  #31  
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+1 on the NISMO cams feedback.

Anyone have ideas on how to correct the cruise-control issue yet? That's a bit of a concern, as I want all mods to come across an OEM options. A glitchy cruise-control just won't cut it.

I really would enjoy the 3.9, as most of my driving is in-town, with only a couple of miles of highway driving M-F. I've had my eye on this swap for a good while now. Just waiting for the bugs to get worked out. That and the added up-front cost and core exchange tend to push to cost up there a bit.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 10:04 AM
  #32  
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re: Nismo Cams

I had the heads ported and polished when the cams were done. This was huge - next to the gears I expect these two mods are the best you can do. The car drives fine - slight rocking, for the increased lope. Idle is at 650-700 - and clean - like I said - a small lope - so it feels like the race car it should be.

Mid and top end EXPLODE...gears will handle the bottom end...and WOW - I expect miracles and a completely new car. I get the car back today and will let you know first impressions. I'm going to the track next week and will post after that as well.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 12:48 PM
  #33  
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From: Texas
Please do!

I've had my eyes on the cams for a while. So, no ECU work? Let us know if it seems needed.

Also, any information on the port/polish? Cost, etc.?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 04:41 PM
  #34  
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"...The car drives fine - slight rocking, for the increased lope. Idle is at 650-700 - and clean - like I said - a small lope - so it feels like the race car it should be."

what do u mean by slight rocking?? also does your rpm move up and down while idling? any dyno numbers? did u have to retune your ecu?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 11:11 AM
  #35  
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From: SoCal
You can feel the lope...if you've ever driven anything of performance, like a 'duuuumbMestic', you'd know what a car feels like when it has an RV-based cam in it.

Idle is steady - and computer controlled - so no changes there. No dyno numbers...maybe soon though. TS did a re-flash....
 
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #36  
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OK...3.92's are in and everything I expected them to be. We first put in the 3.5's, just for reference, and they worked well...but they just didn't get the car out of the 4kRPM range fast enough. The 3.92's - well, another story. THE CAR ROCKS!

I raced a few local G35 6MT's, well mod'd, and beat the crap out of 'em. They never knew what hit them...especially from a non-FI Auto!

If you want the WOW in your car - you've got to do 3.92's! No questions asked - no prisoners taken!

80 MPH RPM is 3400 - 60 MPH RPM is 2400 - Gas mileage change = negligent.

You gotta do it...and do it right...the first time!
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 11:04 AM
  #37  
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I'm sitting on a stack of cash that I have long intended to use for some Volks ($4K-$5K). Meanwhile, the cams and gears have been on my mind nearly as long.

...My G might be in danger of being stuck with the OEM 19"ers.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 11:52 AM
  #38  
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From: SoCal
GT-Ron - function before beauty man... ;-)
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 01:12 PM
  #39  
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I reduce my quartermile times by .5 with the 3.90s on my '05 6MT sedan....

Biggest gains in performance than everything else combined....
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 04:35 PM
  #40  
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Did you opt for the assembled unit or just the ring & pinion set? Also, did you stick with the OEM LSD or did you upgrade to the NISMO or OS Giken unit?

How's 1st gear for you? Pretty useless now?
 

Last edited by GT-Ron; Oct 5, 2005 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 12:34 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by GT-Ron
Did you opt for the assembled unit or just the ring & pinion set? Also, did you stick with the OEM LSD or did you upgrade to the NISMO or OS Giken unit?

How's 1st gear for you? Pretty useless now?
I would have gotten an assembled unit - but Evo had no housings available - so I just got the parts and swapped them into my housing.

To save downtime - go to a junkyard and pick up a 6MT housing and then have the gears swapped into it - shimmed and all - then just swap the pumpkin and your set with a one day install. Otherwise - your car will be down for about a week.

For daily driving - you gotta have the OEM VLSD - if your road racing - go Nismo or Giken - the latter units are not really streetable.

First gear is great - massive hole shot an a little less than it was - definately not lost though...with the other mods - I also shift at at 7600R's...so I've got room...
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 11:04 AM
  #42  
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From: Texas
smacks forehead

Right... ...cams, port/polish... lol ...must be a blast!

And I'll go with the assembled pumpkin if they have the housings available at that time. I figured the Nismo LSD would be too agressive for street use. But with them being so close in price, I had to ask.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 12:23 PM
  #43  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by GT-Ron
smacks forehead

Right... ...cams, port/polish... lol ...must be a blast!

And I'll go with the assembled pumpkin if they have the housings available at that time. I figured the Nismo LSD would be too agressive for street use. But with them being so close in price, I had to ask.
As you already have the MT - try to get them assembled with the core swap. Having to get one from a junkyard - when you already have it - sucks...good luck!
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 02:52 PM
  #44  
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I'm sorry but can someone enlighten me on this pumpkin/no pumpkin business? I have a 04 6mt. What would I need to purchase?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 03:14 PM
  #45  
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From: Texas
< < EDIT > > - BTW, any solution to the cruise-control problem found yet?

Depends on the amount of work you want to do yourself or have a shop do. You'll probably pay close to the same either way, but down-time is a variable factor.

Just the 3.9 ring & pinion set is about half the cost of a pre-assembled unit, however, the r&p set will have to be installed into your stock differential housing (pumpkin). This means a good bit of down-time for a good differential shop to do a proper install.

The pre-assembled unit has all of the hard, internal work done, allowing most general auto mechanics to install the pre-assembled pumpkin. This also takes less time. Either way, you're paying for the labor. With the pre-assembled unit, you will also pay a $650 core charge that will be refunded when they recieve your stock pumpkin that you ship back to them.
 

Last edited by GT-Ron; Oct 6, 2005 at 03:16 PM.
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