I finally got around to it, it took my friend at a ford shop about 20-30 mins. Would have been shorter but he had to take out all the bolts again after he put them back. On the drive home I didn't really hear any difference or feel any difference, but I had yet to reset my ECU. So I went home, did the battery disconnect for 30 mins with the headlights on (my friend explained why it would be better to do it with that way, but I don't remember). Afterwards I started the car back up and revved it for awhile. I can't remeber if it always sounded like this but it had a nice gargle to it, but it might have always been like that.

Hopefully in a couple of weeks, maybe next week I can get an after dyno to see if it even made any power since one guy saw none....I think even if it made 5rwhp I would not feel this on the street but next week I am going to the track again to see if I can trap any better to see if it is making a little more power. Last week i ran 14.4 @97mph.

 

It will take about 200-300 miles for the ECU to adapt. I would not bother with the ECU reset unless you have an error code to clear. I just dynoed at 231 HP and 221 TQ with my setup. Not too bad for a 5AT sedan, they usually put down about 208-210 stock.

 

How do you know the ECU is reset after only 30 min? do the pedal method next time.

It does take a little driving to really notice the gains from the spacer. Give it a few days...

 

Urgent news update....the whole "resetting the ecu" thing is complete B.S. When our car is at WOT, the ecu uses a WOT fuel map...no matter what kind of driving habits we use or how the ecu adapts to our driving.

 

Chaz, I found out some interesting info today while I was at Lokey Infiniti. John Oliva is going to set up a "tech day" with a local Nissan Engineer and the FGC. John told me that he previously had a llllooooonnnngggg talk w/ the engineer about the ECU and here's what I remember of what John told me...

1. The ECU is not as smart as some people would lead you to believe. It does not reset itself nor does it "learn" your driving styles, rather it operates in a "zone".
2. The pedal reset ONLY clears fault codes (the NISSAN consult does the same thing)
3. You NEVER need to reset the ECU after ANY MOD!
4. Resetting the ECU does not have any 'performance related' value what-so-ever and this can be seen using the OBD-II scanner both before and after installing major mods like headers, plenums, intakes, exhausts, etc...
5. At WOT, the ECU does not communicate with the O2 sensors! You just flat out GO!

There's a lot more info about how O2 sensors work on our cars, etc... but I'll save this info. for the tech session.

I also learned that the reason the stock throttle body only opens *I think* to 80 degrees (not 80%) is because at 90% there is a potential that the throttle body could get stuck open and then the car could stay LEAN for too long. (Remember at WOT the ECU doesn't communicate w/ the O2 sensors).

Take all of that for what it's worth and make sure to call me for your post dyno runs. I'm sure a few of us would like to join you for another run or three. Your car was a beast for a stock G at our dyno day. I'd be surprised if you gained a lot more with most any N/A mod...

 

^well just in case i did it anyways but thats cool if i didn't need to. Today I didn't get to get on it because of the crappy weather.

Ballisticus~ive never heard of the 200-300 mile thing in my life.

The reason why i have doubt on it making power is because of my car being an 05'. Todd, what do you think next level performance will charge if we can get some people to go again. You got your car tuned right?

 

I have heard of the 200-300 mile thing. It is on the instructions for the UR pulley set describing the adjustments made by the ECU to compensate for inertial differences. My experience with the 1/2" spacer confirmed that there is a bit of a lag in performance. After I put it on and did a reset, the car actually felt slower. But now, it pulls strong from idle all the way up. The ECU changed something and it was not a placebo. Ive had this car for almost 3 years, I know when something is different.

 

Neff, wasn't it you a few months ago that said you really felt the difference after an ECU reset?

 

I was under the impression that this was "less necessary" on the 05 6MT because of a plenum redesign which resulted in the 298HP vs. 280 from prior years. Any truth to that or is this something that will still yield results?

 

You didn't wait long enough. It takes the ECU on the G35 about 2+ hours to do a full reset with nothing turned on. Even having the headlights on doesn't help. A quick method is to reset the ECU which has been proven to work, is to disconnect both + and - from the battery and connect both the cables together for about 10 seconds. This drains everything in the system and seems to clear it right away.

 

Read the service manual. Because it is not complete BS.

 

Well, I know when I reset my ECU on my 04, I gained about 1-2 mpg back, and the car doesn't feel like a dog anymore. And per the service manual a ecu reset does work.

 

Here, you guys decide after reviewing these 2 shots I am posting below.

 

So when it refers to "mixture" adjustments does that mean AF ratio changes according to the ECU?

 

Correct.

The O2 sensor #1 (pre-catalyst) sensor is constantly sending feedback to the ECU on the content of oxygen in the exhaust gas. Based on that reading, the ECU will adjust injector timing (longer or shorter). The ECU is constantly changing injector timing because it is trying to maintain the same A/F ratio (~14.5:1). This is stoichiometric, which is the ideal setting for the cleanest burn of all present air and fuel in the cylinder, put simply.

The comment about WOT and the O2 sensor reading not being used is true. After a certain RPM level, it just uses a pre-determined fuel mapping.

If there are any other O2 sensor questions, just let me know, I was a product engineer for O2 sensors for four years....