SFL G CLUB South Florida G35's + G37's

wheel hop anyone????

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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 01:36 AM
  #46  
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Hmm, I bet my OEM one is busted... I probably busted it at 6k miles. Either that or I REALLY hate wheel hop.

What's the downside to installing this? rigidity in the ride?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 11:30 AM
  #47  
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nah the ride really doesnt change.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 02:23 AM
  #48  
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Top mounts are in and did a shake down tonight. Too bad there was rain but I will check the bushings 2morrow to see if the top bolts need locktite. Feels good and doesn't vibrate though the chassis. I will let you know.


36 mm socket does the trick make sure to use a good sledge





Make sure to put a vac plug on the case vent otherwise you will make a mess












Thats all she wrote!!! let me know mike
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 07:28 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by rpm06g35
yeah look under the car at your bushing betcha got the curse of the black ooze later mike
That's what mine looked like leaking black grease or oil and it'll get all over your exhaust if it gets real bad, the thing is mine felt like rear wheel steering when I shifted 2nd/3rd it'd almost turn to the right and it had a minor tear. This is a must have mod IMO and will not break again like the OEM bushing.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 08:33 PM
  #50  
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I have a question... why use a metal bushing on the subframe and then a urethane type on the others? Would a solid urethane type bushing on the subframe still give hippity hopp?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #51  
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its not just plain urethane. This is a real dense plastic. But the reason for putting it on the body side is to cut down on gear whine. Let me know mike
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #52  
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Just stopped by to check out this thread again... Nice job on the front diff bushings... any thoughts on the noise now that you've had them in for a while?

If anyone is going to do this, I would think that the best route to go would be to replace all three of the bushings at the same time. I would be afraid that using the aluminum bushing in the back and keeping the rubber bushings in the front might lead to some torque twist and cracking either the frame or the rear diff cover.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #53  
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I dont really think you need all three bushings. I did mine just to make sure it would work. The car responds like no other Jb. The launch is crazy. I did however notice the noise with the back seat out (pbir). But I cant really notice it with full interior. I actually think my tire whine (mickey t drags) is louder than the gear whine. Let me know brother. Talk soon mike
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 07:57 PM
  #54  
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Does anyone know the Part # for the OEM bushing that gets busted and ozzes out?
Edit: I went to infiniti, They dont sell the part by its self, so they want to replace the whole cross member. ($880 dealer price for part)

Also GG ygpm.
 

Last edited by thescreensavers; Oct 10, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #55  
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not to doubt you, rpm, but is it a good idea to completely solid mount the diff to the subframe? in my mind, all the shock from driving would do straight thru the aluminum subframe and bushings, into the diff, and potentially cause some damage. I thought poly bushings or dense plastic would be the best route to go.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 09:47 PM
  #56  
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its not solid mounted. I do have a dense plastic on the body side of the top of the pumpkin.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 05:36 PM
  #57  
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Any new deVelopments on this? I'm fairly certain my mounts are busted as I'm getting a large amount of wheelhop
 
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 01:57 PM
  #58  
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Does the rear differential/drive shaft/axle need to be removed in order for the rear bushing to be installed?
 
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 06:05 PM
  #59  
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Yes look at the install pics. Thanks mike
 
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 06:40 PM
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