Determined last night after troubleshooting a 'clank' sound I hear sometimes on hard right turns... my mechanic discovered that ALL 4 Ichiba camber arms have cracked bushings, and the BOTH left side (front and rear) arms have torn completely and moved.

This is after less than 5K total miles and about 6 months of use.

I'd post pics but I was so pissed I didn't bother grabbing the camera. I'll post pics when they come off though. For now, an FUUUUUUUU should work:



FML...

 

gotdang, i had the ichibas front a arms for a few months myself and i have had this clunking issue since day 1 !!
happens when i go over bumps thats when i hear it

these things offered me no positive camber adjustment whatsoever after i had dropped my front just over 2 inches lower than oem... so they were a useless buy, few hundred bucks wasted as the alignment shop they could have done the same adjustments with my oem arms as well...


so this clunking i'm having as well i see now, you're saying it's bad bushings, fck no wonder they sell the same lookalike arms on ebay for like a $100 bucks, this definitely struck me as a cheap product soon as i opened the box i saw the paint had peeled off some sections and rust was already showing on the metal... they selling these for like $200 - $300 price range right ?

fckin rip off for shlt quality

 

yes. i had discovered the same issues. i had the clunking, and found out it was bolts kept on coming loose. both front and rear had to be adjusted many times to get the camber right. also the front camber kit still has negative camber and could be done any further because of the camber kit quality.

go get spcs.

 

+1000 on everything said here. My front bushings are shot. By themselves, they don't offer anything for positive adjustment either.

I emailed ichiba, and after a while they ended up saying that they will send the bushings, but they have to charge me for shipping. I declined.

Eventually i'll get another brand. My front end creaks even when coming to a stop (not turning or anything).

 

Yep the arm is sliding over the broken bushing when you brake. Mine is sliding but not creaking yet probably because they are practically new LOL... just 'clunk' when hitting bumps during right turns as the arm bottoms out without a working bushing.

And +1 on the useless adjustments... you get maybe +0.8* with S-techs. Hardly any better than stock.

 

this type of shlt should be common knowledge on the forums here so people don't end up buying shlt quality components, like im talking stickies etc....

but there's too many sponsors selling this **** guess the forum bosses turn a blind eye to it...

i been on the forum for years and never knew from all my reading that most of these front camber arms offer horrible adjustment once lowered, barely any better than oem.

 

+100 - KISS,(keep it simple stupid); those Ichiba front arms look to me a over decorated do nothings.

I'll suggest the fact than the Ichiba arm wheel camber is not "lockable" and drifts causes strain on the bushings that crack.

Now the watchdogs claim camber movement limitations in the arm slots which obviously are to "full with little bolts" to move even + 1deg. I guess 3 little bolts per slot x 2 slots = 6 "little bolts" are "superior" than some other designs.

 

Bump for the humor!!!!!!! I literally lol'd.....


BTW I had the same issue and replaced those POS' with a set of Stillen RCAs. I have already replaced the Ichiba toe bolts with SPCs.

 

I'm fed up with **** like this, **** like major forum sponsors carrying bullshit products that are basically ebay quality, dumping it onto us and nothing is done because these sponsors here pay the forum bills...


my clunk has gotten a LOT worse, it sounds like someone is using an aluminum bat to smash the inside of my wheel well everytime i go over even the smallest uneven road surface like a pothole, or manhole etc....

my email is quoted below, i urge you guys to email them as well, this is their email sales@ichibausa.com



"" This is a simple email to voice my disappointment on this product, i'm not gonna beat around the bush and try to make sure my english is perfect and my paragraphs are proper just gonna get right to the nitty gritty.... i have always paid extra money for better quality rather than cheap out, i felt like i was buying a quality product when i purchased yours because of all the kind words some sponsor forums had to say about it and also the price, these were NOT cheap! Turns out it was a lie, and the product is basically ebay quality, matter a fact there are camber arms on EBAY that look EXACTLY identical to yours, just a different color, they are selling for $100 shipped... i bought your product from a forum sponsor for $350 shipped. I could have chipped in another $100 or so for SPL, and i bet my money that a single bolt from SPL has more quality put into it than your whole camber kit here.

First thing would be why do your camber arms advertise but offer almost no positive camber adjustment, (best alignment shop in town, has won numerous road race awards with their shop cars etc, very legit shop who knows what they're doing) they were only able to extract roughly .5 degrees of positive camber back for me..... the whole reason I got these was so when I lower the car I could get my positive camber back and not burn my tires.


Secondly and more worrying is the clunking issue, since the first week these got installed by the same shop, i have been hearing clunking every time i got over rough surfaces like a dip in the road or very uneven surface.... now 6 months in the clunking has gotten so bad that it feels like someone is literally taking an aluminum bat and smashing the inside of the wheel well with it..... CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK....
oh and by the way, brand new out of the box the candy red paint on these puppies was already chipping, they are very cheaply painted, powdercoating would have been a better option... i had cover the open spots since i didnt want rust.



now i obviously wouldn't write this email unless i was certain it was your product that was faulty and not something else, I have spent the last 3 months researching a few forums like G35 driver and my350z, and there have been numerous other members and various threads on both forums speaking on exactly the same clunking issue... the general consensus is that the problem is the bushings you use.... a lot of members have reported their bushings being totally done after only a few months of daily driving, i suspect this is the issue.
I have since taken these out and put my OEM arms back in, everything is back to normal, no noises no clunking, and let me remind you my OEM arms have 100k on them, while yours have 5k.....
And now that these are off the car, even though they're roughly 6 months old, I have no plan on reselling them to regain any lost profit because I do not wish to pass this type of **** onto a fellow G/Z club member let alone any other enthusiast, no these have been introduced to the metal bin at my local recycling depot

anyway, i do not expect any kind of reply from you which is totally fine i just wanted you to know that there's something called quality control, and judging from your website, i mean if you don't have the funds to update your own website layout which is like a damn time portal back to 1999, i assume other departments lack as well....
i'm gonna make extra sure none of my club members or anybody including the local shops in town here, and i know all the major ones, don't carry your product so nobody get stuck with issues they should have to deal with when paying damn near top dollar for what's basically ebay crap""

 

Well I've since switched to SPC and couldn't be happier... adjustment and ride quality is 100% better. With the bearing shims that come with the kit you get massive range of adjustment compared to the joke of ichiba (0.5 deg. max with S-techs).

Honestly if you could swap out the ichiba rear bushings those would be reselable or usable (aside from rust). But the fronts belong in the garbage can or recycling yard.

 

damn i have the same problem with mine, i thought thats just how they were designed. has anyone had any luck with repairing the issue? seems like ichiba should offer replacements at no charge.

 

I worked on someones car last week and noticed it had the problem as well.

 

SPL!

I had the V2 SPL and they clunked everytime I went over a bump. They sent me V3 replacement parts for FREE with no Shipping Charge. The Clunk went away!

Now that is Customer service, a company that sticks behind its products! Thats hard to find now a days.

 

I called ichiba a while back and all they offer is replacement bushings. So you pay for shipping of the bushings, then labor to remove the old ones and install the new ones yourself. I then contacted the vendor who offered whiteline bushings at cost + shipping. Either offer is hardly worth it given the crap quality of the kit and limited adjustment range.

Just get the SPC's, recycle the Ichiba's, and call it a day

 

I just had the same problem!!
After 2000 miles with a lower ride + ichibas camber kit. The result was no ability to get any positive camber compared to the stock arm.
Ball joints completly worn, the rubber desintegrated.... My stock arm has over 60K miles an is still in great shape.... I am back to those. With -2.3 deg. Of camber the car drives like champ, much better than the ride with ichibas crapy kit.

I feel robbed and dont want anyone getting ripped like I did.

Labour to put the kit in + labour to replace crappy kit again + 2 allignments + shitty ichiba camber kit + aggrevation = big dissapoinment$$$$$$$

Do not buy ichiba`s front camber kit!! I have pictures if anyone is interested.