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Replaced the resonator on my Tanabe exhaust with a Virbrant Ultra-Quiet resonator. Sounds much better now. Without the booming drone, my exhaust sounds much meaner when I get on it but a lot quieter tooling around town.
Not particularly pleased with how much the resonator on the Tanabe necks down internally, the exhaust piping is just under 3" but look at this...the muffler was was the same.
The Vibrant resonator is 3" all the way through. Seems to feel a bit more energetic above 4000 rpm.
I've been looking at the Virbrant Ultra-Quiet resonator for a custom system I'm piecing together In hopes that it will not be super loud during normal driving. If possible, could you post a video sometime? The Tanabe with UQ resonator sounds like it would be an interesting combination.
Neat. Similar resonators work on the motorcycles too. I have one on my R6 that does a very good job. They may need repacking every few thousand miles, it's worth a call to the manufacturer.
I've been looking at the Virbrant Ultra-Quiet resonator for a custom system I'm piecing together In hopes that it will not be super loud during normal driving. If possible, could you post a video sometime? The Tanabe with UQ resonator sounds like it would be an interesting combination.
I'll try to get both outside (easier) and inside (tougher with a 6 speed...). I don't have the Tanabe muffler anymore either though, replaced with a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler.
This weekend I got around to cleaning my MAF sensor, throttle body plate, and K&N filter for the first time.
I forgot to check what my car idles at when in park before I started, but I have a feeling 800 or so is normal?
Right now it is a hair above 1000, so lets say 1050 RPMs. (This is after driving a bit and then stopping and putting the car in park) Would you suggest I attempt the idle relearn and whatever other procedures I have seen posted along with these maintenance items when people have rough conditions or am I fine keeping it where it is at?
Another way to ask, are my likely outcomes to be either not correctly doing the procedure and nothing happens or correctly completing the steps and things improve at best, but cannot get worse?
Do the reset, if you re-oiled the K&N I also recommend you to re-clean the MAF after you've put 1k miles on the filter as well as perform ANOTHER idle re-learn at that time.
I read somewhere that climate control should be off when checking idle rpms so I did that today when I got home and it dropped to 800, maybe I am fine then...
I did re-oil and tried to keep it minimal, but may not have let it dry for extremely long so you are probably right to spray the MAF again just in case.
Big Success! Driver's Airbag has been replaced . Center brake light replaced. Y-Pipe replaced. All with salvage parts!
Got confirmation this morning that my low beam headlights ordered from EBay arrived this morning. Time to pull the front tires!
Punch Down List
Valve Cover gaskets - ordered
Front Struts - rears replaced in September
Engine Splash Shield - Front and Rear - received and waiting for Valve Cover maintenance to be completed.
I'm just happy that I don't see the airbag light, for the first time in 5-6 years! (Darn airbag recall kicked the code for the airbag)
Oh man....I feel like when you go a while without any issues with a car. Then when one issue turns up, they all come at you at once When it comes to being mechanically inclined would say I'm fairly decent. I saved a lot of money on these repairs.
FIRST ISSUE: I smelled coolant a few weeks ago after driving for an hour. I open the hood to discover coolant pooling everywhere. After cleaning it up, I further inspected it and found the radiator filler neck developed a crack:
I ended up buying a brand new Denso radiator for $86. I wasn't going to spend $500 for an OEM radiator:
Installation:
Lisle "Spill Free" bleeding funnel in action. No need to open the bleeder valve by the heator core hose:
SECOND ISSUE: I started noticed an audibly loud clunk/banging/squeak noise when turning the steering wheel side to side. Upon further inspection, I jacked the car up and wiggled the wheel back and forth at the 9 to 3 position. I felt alot of play and a click/clunk noise. I pulled the boot off the inner tie rod to inspect it while shaking the wheel at 9 to 3. I could visibly see the inner tie rod balljoint moving in and out of it's socket slightly. VERY DANGEROUS! This is what helps keep the wheel and knuckle connected to the steering rack. I replaced these 40K miles ago, and they were completely worn out again. So I installed new MOOG inner and outer tie rods for $65:
THIRD ISSUE: When inspecting the rear suspension, I noticed a terrible leak developing at the bottom of the differential. Upon closer inspection, I could see that gear oil was running down from the top and collecting at the bottom. At first I thought gear oil was leaking from the breather hose at the top, but that area was dry. I cleaned it up and drove it for a few days to get a better look. I inspected it again after a few days and could see it was coming from the side seal where the output shaft for the axle goes into the differential. Very very easy repair if you have the right tools. Basically just remove all 6 rusty axle bolts. Then remove the wheel speed sensor. Next use a slide hammer or long pry bar to pop the output shaft out. Then you can see the seal. To remove it you need a special seal puller tool to get it out. Especially if it has never been removed before. Lisle makes these. After that use a giant jumbo socket to slighty press the new seal back into place while making sure it goes in level using some lube. You stop pounding it in whel the seal is flush with the differential case. This can all be done with enough room on the car. No need to drop the diff!
The leak I noticed:
Here are some pics of the output shaft removed and the new seal installed:
All in all the total repairs were about $160. New differential seal was $10, new radiator was $86, and new inner and outer tie rods were $65. All labor performed myself. I thought I would just give all this info to help out anyone else with these issues that WILL come up eventually as these cars age more. My car is an 06 G35x with 196K miles.
When it comes to being mechanically inclined would say I'm fairly decent. I saved a lot of money on these repairs.
