So I finally got a chance to fine tune my 500/1 that is pushing a JL 12W6 in a Boxology single sealed side trunk enclosure.
The manual calls for an AC voltage of 31.6 for a 2 ohm load with all processors at their flat level settings. Both the HU volume and the remote bass control level are 3/4 of the way up.
With the amp's input sens dial all the way down, I am seeing 42 volts. BTW, the manual calls for the Hi/Low voltage input to be set to low initially since my signal is tapped from the large Bose plug, which I think is supposed to be pre-amp. The voltage coming into the amp's inputs is 6.2V when playing the JL Audio reference track of 50Hz recorded at 0 dBFS. That is a lot higher than I expected out of the Bose HU. So I switched the amp's inputs to Hi voltage.
Any ideas as to why the Bose HU voltage is so high when it is supposed to be around 2V?
Also, what I haven't seen mentioned in any of the previous threads is that the Bose amp does not appear to be actually driving the Bose free air sub. It's the weirdest thing, but the Bose sub has no visible magnet behind the voice coil. It does, however, have a small (4" x 4") box mounted next to it which I can only assume is the sub's own amp. So technically, tapping into the woofer plug (the 5 wire plug everyone talks about) could still be considered pre-amp. The problem is that the frequency response curve could have already been mangled by the Bose amp prior to sending the signal to the woofer's dedicated amp. This is my guess, someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
This is the reason I decided to tap into the large plug with the really thin (22awg?) wires coming into the large Bose amp.
Finally, the Gray (WOOFER AMP ON) signal wire does not trip the JL Audio Amp on. I used the Violet wire (AMP ON SIGNAL) instead with good results. The amp does stay on even with the radio off for as long as the ignition is on.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
I'll post a picture of the wiring diagram with the connections I used in a little bit.

 

Here's the diagram of the plug used when tapping into the existing Bose wiring.

 

Well, no replies meant I had to do my own homework. After a week of fine tuning and messing around, here are the results.
I ended up feeding only one side of the RCA inputs to the amp. I basically removed the RCA Y-splitter from the signal cable. The pre Bose sub signal I'm tapped into is mono anyway, so the amp simply sums both inputs once they're plugged in. Input sensitivity is still set to minimum and input voltage is set on High. I did find that I wasn't at 3/4 of HU volume during initial testing. Yes, one click makes a world of difference. I was getting high 20's with the bass boost turned all the way down, but just one extra volume click on the HU would take me to 109 volts after setting the bass boost and EQ to where I intended to run the setup.
Both the parametric EQ set to where I like it and bass boost up at its halfway point (7.5dB), I am seeing 31.5 volts, where the manual calls for no more than 31.6 volts for a clip free 500 watt output while playing a 0dB 50Hz test tone.
Anyway, I just received my dynamat Extreme Bulk pack as the trunk does rattle quite a bit.
I guess the biggest change since my last post is that I now have the JL Audio HD750/1 amp on its way to replace the current 500/1v2, which I will move into my brother's car.
I am looking forward to running the HD at only part of its capability to drive my 12W6. The amp will not be stressed, and is physically smaller in size. More updates as they happen. Hey, if you're still reading this then I haven't wasted my time typing. Hopefully, this helps someone out in the future.

 

Another update as I spend more time concentrating on tuning this setup. The HD750/1 has come and gone, and in its place now sits the massive 1000/1v2. I didn't like the fact that the HD didn't have the parametric EQ, and its infrasonic filter wasn't variable. The 1000/1v2 is barely breaking a sweat with its output being at ~612 watts with about 4dB of boost. This leaves plenty of headroom for tracks that are not rich when it comes to low end. I also like the fact that the remote **** controls bass boost vs amp level. The amp is still only being fed 1 of 2 inputs, with voltage sensitivity being at its lowest level, and input voltage range set to high. Dynamat is still not in and the trunk does rattle at high volumes. I'll post some videos when I'm satisfied with the way everything sounds and the trunk panels are back on.

 

The rear half of the car is apart down to the metal. Dynamat is being applied today to the rear deck and trunk. Hopefully, I'll have some pics to share as I make progress.

 

This is where I stopped for the day. The rear deck and seats are back in place. I will tackle the trunk tomorrow.



Here's a quick shot of the amp, sitting in its temporary location until I finish fine tuning it. It will most likely be mounted to the back of the rear seat deck.



Here's the 12W6 in the Boxology box.

 

The weather isn't cooperating with me. Sure, it's 95 degrees and it's great for working with Dynamat in this weather, but I'm sweating like a monkey as I slowly push forward with this install!

All I was able to complete last night was the trunk lid. I took my time and made sure that the mat is not visible with the trunk lid cover on.

 

Ok, this thread seriously needs renaming...

Here's the trunk, "finished" until I get another bulk pack of the sticky stuff.

 

clean bro, nice work.

 

This thread has been very informational. I would like to thank you for providing the details.
Couple of questions.
1) Does the remote wire tapped from Bose Amp do the job of being a good remote turn on for the JL Amp or did you face any issues? A little more detail on that
2) How many sheets of Dynamat did you use and where all did you use?

I might start a crazy project on a 2008 G37S, you inputs will be helpful.

 

this is awesome, and thank you for writing it up i'm learning a lot as well!

in my previous car I had a type x and a pdx1.1000 and it was nothing short of ridiculous.

I wish i had the money for the stealth box, but unfortunately my setup is going to cost almost as much as that box alone! trying to downgrade to around ~500 RMS and possibly a 10 or 12 type r

i'll try to follow your guide when I install my LOC, hopefully I dont run into any problems.

thanks again for the write up! people like you make this site such a great place

 

Thanks for the compliments! I'm glad my little thread is helpful. I've been away on vacation for the past week, so the project has hit its slow stage for the time being.
To answer General Neo's questions though, pin 20 of the large pre amp plug AMP ON SIGNAL (violet wire) trips the amp on as soon as the ignition is turned on. The amp stays on even when driving with the radio off. Others have mentioned using the satellite radio amp in the trunk for their remote signal lead to only trip the amp on when the radio is on. I've yet to locate the satellite control box in my trunk though.
So far I used 8 sheets from the 9 sheet Dynamat bulk pack. The bulk pack is 36 square feet. I lined the trunk floor and rear wall, the trunk lid and the rear deck. I also plan to do the front doors, trunk sides, and apply additional layers as necessary to get rid of any left over rattles. The one thing I found helpful is using velcro sticky back black tape to deaden vibrations in places like the trunk lid lip. When the trunk lid vibrates, it hits the bumper cover which produces most of the rattle heard from the outside. If you take a look at the above picture of the trunk lid, you can clearly see where the lid makes contact with the bumper cover on the left side. It is the spot where the paint is showing signs of wear. I use only the felt material half of the velcro tape and discard the second half with the plastic hooks. I plan on lining the entire trunk lid lip to make sure no audible vibration is heard when the bass hits.
I haven't done much critical rattle pinpointing yet, but I can tell that there are several rattle sources that need attention right away. One of the biggest offenders in my interior are the three plastic pieces that cover the child safety tether connections along the rear deck. I'll post additional pics as I tackle the rattles hopefully in a couple of weeks.

 

Just a quick update. I've been kinda busy to do much to the car lately. The one thing I do have time to do is listen to the system the way it is now, and the more I listen the more I think of stepping up to a 12W7 H.O. Wedge box. So I may be selling the Side box and the W6 before too long. Other than that, I should have more time to keep working and post more updates sometime in mid October.

 

It's official. The Boxology enclosure and the 12W6 are for sale.
Please see the For Sale thread Here
The build will go on, and I will update this thread as I swap out the sub and finish up the Dynamat install in the doors.

 

I finally had a chance to properly relocate the SNOW switch from the center console last night. The sub EQ level control is now where the SNOW switch used to be. Here's the end result.