SPC Kit Arrived Today (Full Kit)
is the front spc nessessary? I only have the rear but im affraid my front tires are experiencing premature tire wear. Also I've been noticing kind of like a burnt rubber smell coming from the front tires when close enough. not trying to thread jack, just need some expert opinions and advice
Anything over -1.2 to -1.5 degrees is going to cause some additional wear. My advice is set the toe as close to 0 as possible, and see what you think after 5-8000 miles. At that point you will have a good idea of what your tire wear is like.
Mine is at -1.5 and -1.8 on the front and I would like to get it to the -1.2 range, but I am not sure if I care enough to add the front camber arms (especially since others are reporting interference issues with the fender). At a minimum I would let SPC work out the problems people are having before making a decision.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 3
From: Westminster, MD
Funny you say that, they are actually sitting in the garage now. Will take some pics later. Standard two car garage. Nothing impressive yet.
Lets face it, if you drop your car, and do not get an alignment kit, your tires will wear uneven. As would they if they are not properly inflated. So, in my case, I want things to be perfect, or as close to perfection as possible. Not quite sure what the burnt rubber smell would be.
Start a thread.
is the front spc nessessary? I only have the rear but im affraid my front tires are experiencing premature tire wear. Also I've been noticing kind of like a burnt rubber smell coming from the front tires when close enough. not trying to thread jack, just need some expert opinions and advice
Start a thread.
Yup, well said.
Anything over -1.2 to -1.5 degrees is going to cause some additional wear. My advice is set the toe as close to 0 as possible, and see what you think after 5-8000 miles. At that point you will have a good idea of what your tire wear is like.
Mine is at -1.5 and -1.8 on the front and I would like to get it to the -1.2 range, but I am not sure if I care enough to add the front camber arms (especially since others are reporting interference issues with the fender). At a minimum I would let SPC work out the problems people are having before making a decision.
Anything over -1.2 to -1.5 degrees is going to cause some additional wear. My advice is set the toe as close to 0 as possible, and see what you think after 5-8000 miles. At that point you will have a good idea of what your tire wear is like.
Mine is at -1.5 and -1.8 on the front and I would like to get it to the -1.2 range, but I am not sure if I care enough to add the front camber arms (especially since others are reporting interference issues with the fender). At a minimum I would let SPC work out the problems people are having before making a decision.
I've been following that thread on myg37, and it seems that the problems were related to the g37's and not the 35's (since the arm design was different). From what I got, once the 35 arms were installed on the 37, the problem seemed to have stopped. I haven't been following it lately, but that's what I got from the thread (I may be wrong).
The problem is the upper part of the arms extend too far out on the G37. This is done to increase the adjustment range on the camber setting, but it also means on the newer sedans and coupes it interferes with the inside of the fender. This only happens at full compression of the front suspension, but seems to happen on most cars. I can tell you now, the part that is currently out will not be the final release of this part. One of three things will happen: 1) they will re-design it altogether, 2) they will make the washers/bump stop kits part of the release, or 3) they will make the G35 arms the official arms to use.
With the above said, it sounds like they are going to go the G35 arm route. These have the shorter top part of the arm where the "knuckle" mounts to the A-arm. Now let me ask this.... If the G35 arm is really the right arm to use, then why did they spend the time designing the A-arm in the first place? I have to say, I think the people that are buying this now are asking for issues (this goes for the G37 arms). SPC does this a lot, and the same thing happened on the first release of the G35 A-arms. They are going to need some time to work things out, but the current arm is not an ideal solution unless you like the banging and clunking sound of the A-arm hitting your fender.
Last edited by jran76; Apr 28, 2009 at 11:37 AM.
Here is a link to the thread that discusses these issues:
http://myg37.com/forums/brakes-and-s...it-rattle.html
Here are some pics of the 3 arms compared to each other....
Just to explain the pictures.... The red "knuckle" is moved up and down to adjust camber. You can see the G37 arm has the most positive camber adjustment (in the down direction), and you loose a lot of that with the G35 arm. According to one of the posts in the thread, they maxed out at -0.9 degrees in the positive direction.
http://myg37.com/forums/brakes-and-s...it-rattle.html
Here are some pics of the 3 arms compared to each other....
Just to explain the pictures.... The red "knuckle" is moved up and down to adjust camber. You can see the G37 arm has the most positive camber adjustment (in the down direction), and you loose a lot of that with the G35 arm. According to one of the posts in the thread, they maxed out at -0.9 degrees in the positive direction.
Last edited by jran76; Apr 27, 2009 at 07:22 PM.
It did not seem to affect mildly lowered cars as much. It is also pretty hard to bottom out the suspension during everyday driving. Where you would really see the problem (or hear it I guess) is at the track or over large bumps at high speed.
Last edited by jran76; Apr 27, 2009 at 07:23 PM.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 3
From: Westminster, MD
HAHAHAHAA! Yep! Have the Avalon Model.
The G37 coupe arms are NOT the same ones that are for the G35 07+ sedan. The kit numbers are different. As far as I know, none of us with G35 07+ sedans have had any problems with our kits. The G37 coupe guys then used our arms but there is still a problem if more positive camber is needed.
I thought you were on JIC coilovers; are they not very low?
It did not seem to affect mildly lowered cars as much. It is also pretty hard to bottom out the suspension during everyday driving. Where you would really see the problem (or hear it I guess) is at the track or over large bumps at high speed.
It did not seem to affect mildly lowered cars as much. It is also pretty hard to bottom out the suspension during everyday driving. Where you would really see the problem (or hear it I guess) is at the track or over large bumps at high speed.



