+10..... The un-even pad material transfer sometimes may be able to be "smoothed out" by performing a bed-in procedure of the brake pads again.

 

totally agree with texasscout.

mostly disagree with pwebb.

heat is a given in any brake system. it is by definition the way brakes work. kinetic energy is converted into heat through friction. a properly designed brake system should be able to handle the heat generated by the car it is mounted on without problems.

generally it is user or mechanic's error that causes problems. lug nuts should be torqued with a calibrated torque wrench (or the gizmo pwebb describes if it is properly calibrated. i guess you would need to have lots of different ones in different torque ranges or they would need to be adjustable if you work on a lot of different cars since most autos and trucks have different lug nut specs.) you should not come to a dead stop when brakes are hot, always a rolling stop, then release brake pedal to avoid pad transfer. use your transmission/engine to downshift and convert kinetic energy into heat and blow it out through radiator instead of riding brakes on mountain hills, etc...

most people don't know how to drive - well. most mechanics don't know how to work on cars - well. (NO OFFENSE TO ANYONE, just my observations over time!)

amp

 

I still think the pads are the culprit. I just recently replaced my pads, there was slight yet noticeable vibration prior to replacing them. After swapping out all four pads, everything was fine. I did not turn the rotors.

 

sounds like heat to me!

 

I know this is an old thread and the last time I responded to an old thread someone chewed my a** for it. Oh well.
I still have the problem you described on my 07 X with roughly 56k on the odometer and I've yet to find a solution beyond the obvious suggestions.

My most recent attempt was to replace my rotors with BrakePerformance slotted and dimpled rotors and new pads. The rotors are guaranteed not to warp (lifetime) but, unfortunately after 10 mo's, they appear to be warped. I am not a passive driver, granted, but I've never 'raced' the car. I've heard they are pretty good about exchanges but I'm concerned my problem will reappear.

If anyone has had this reoccurring issue and has found a solution, please pass on the good news.

 

After being in a partnership in a brake shop since before most of you were born the rules still apply, installing wheels must be done using a torque wrench! Tire monkeys with their impact guns do far more harm than good. For several years I've been using DBA slotted/drilled rotors and HAWK HPS pads and using the bed in process once they're installed. (SEARCH Hawk bed in process) Living in SoCal, doing canyon runs my rotors never get warped. Warped rotors don't exist if you mount your wheels using a torque wrench set at 85....fact!
Gary

 

Yes, and I'll bet you never did a panic stop and just sat there with the brakes still applied. (big reason a lot of rotors warp) It also leaves a glaze of pad compound on the rotors In one spot that feels just like warped rotors. You can get it off with a little sand paper.

I agree with you save one thing. I HATE Hawk HPS pads. I had them and when it was cold an wet, it was like NO BRAKES at all for the first second or two. When it was dry and warm there was nothing better. I went back to stock brakes pads and never regretted it.

 

Although I certainly appreciate your taking the time to respond, I not sure if I fall under the "...most of you were born..." classification. You are obviously very knowledgeable and passionate with regard to the subject. However, I did use a torque wrench set at 85 lb ft. Is there possibly another reason you can think of?

 

Yes, but it's just the same old story. The truth is that these stock V36 brakes are very prone to judder, which is a pad transfer issue. As long as you are running a stock setup, and you drive them hard enough to heat them up well AND THEN come to a stop while still holding them firmly, you will see this occur.

 

More than likely, it's the pad deposits on the rotor. What pad are you using? I managed to scrub my rotors free of pad deposits by going with a harsher, more heat tolerant pad--Stoptech Street Performance--and doing an aggressive bed-in.

 

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

brake rotors rarely rarely warp. as people have said, you have brake deposits.

I suspect this is a function of braking technique, though this is mostly anecdotal and not through data. I am not sure exactly why, but I have never had brake judder. My parents' develop judder on their cars, and usually it becomes better when I drive their car for a bit.

 

The only time I ever had it was when those crappy StopTech rotors I had in the rear developed cracks in them.

 

You and I agree on a lot of subjects but HAWK HPS pads isn't one of them! Did you take the time to do the bed in process just after installing the HAWKS? There company recommends the process which will give you 30% better stopping ability.
Sure there's another reason you have warped rotors, the ones you're using are very poor quality! When rotors are made they need to be allowed to cool for no less than 12 hours. Most companys will remove them while they're still hot resulting in rotors that will warp and crack. (you've heard of them cracking?) Glad you're using a torque wrench, that solves one issue. Buy a set of DBA rotors, use your torque wrench, problem solved....I still recommend HAWK pads and using the bed in process! (Search) Check our Marketplace under vendor brakes....Gary

 

Oh yes, I did the full bed-in. New rotors that were washed with brake cleaner to remove any processing oils and then they were taken right out with a 4 run bed in. I had NO problems with them (great stopping power, very little dust) until I took them on a Raging Bull Texas Stampede run. It was raining and about 45 degrees and the first time I stepped on them it was like no brakes at all, nothing. Within about a second they warmed up and started to bite, but it scared the crap out of me. As long as I kept them warm, they were fine, but if I had a long straight run, they would cool off and it was like no brakes again. I have NEVER had that problem with ANY other pad. I'm not the first to report this here either.

 

While I wouldn't say there is "nothing there", I will say that when cold the HPS i definitely lackluster braking power. Never been an issue for me but you never know when you need to stop hard suddenly.