I have the pre-load dialed in the front and adjusted. I couldn't figure out how to adjust the preload in the rear. I m slow.
The proper way to set preload on Independent Rears
- Loosen the lower lock ring
- Remove the lower mount bolt from the vehicle
- Using a spare jack under the spring bucket raise it so there is no compression on the
spring but so that the spring sits snug (this is zero preload)
- Raise the jack approx. 8 mm to create preload on the spring (some vehicle require more
preload, however excess preload can alter vehicle ride quality)
- Move the lower mount up or down by holding the lower mount and turning the cartridge
- Adjust the mounting point on the lower mount so that its aligned with the vehicle
mounting point
- Once aligned reinstall the lower mount bolt and tighten
I put the jack under the spring bucket and raised it 8mm and held it there. I then had to turn the cartridge to try to align the lower bolt hole. At the maximum I was still short. I then jacked up the bucket for the spring to line up the hole. did i just change the pre-load by jacking it up? so close. any help is appreciated. thanks. kevin
The proper way to set preload on Independent Rears
- Loosen the lower lock ring
- Remove the lower mount bolt from the vehicle
- Using a spare jack under the spring bucket raise it so there is no compression on the
spring but so that the spring sits snug (this is zero preload)
- Raise the jack approx. 8 mm to create preload on the spring (some vehicle require more
preload, however excess preload can alter vehicle ride quality)
- Move the lower mount up or down by holding the lower mount and turning the cartridge
- Adjust the mounting point on the lower mount so that its aligned with the vehicle
mounting point
- Once aligned reinstall the lower mount bolt and tighten
I put the jack under the spring bucket and raised it 8mm and held it there. I then had to turn the cartridge to try to align the lower bolt hole. At the maximum I was still short. I then jacked up the bucket for the spring to line up the hole. did i just change the pre-load by jacking it up? so close. any help is appreciated. thanks. kevin
I think you're doing it right, I wish i can find this DIY. That DIY was perfect in my opinion. I believed it was in myg37.com but their site is down at this moment. 
Did you dial in the preferred spring height first? this is practically installing it twice, first time to get the height, then the second to adjust the preload. Plus I don't think you should be maxed out on the adjustment on the cartridge/shock.
Did you dial in the preferred spring height first? this is practically installing it twice, first time to get the height, then the second to adjust the preload. Plus I don't think you should be maxed out on the adjustment on the cartridge/shock.
I found this post of mine about a year ago. maybe it'll help...
Quote:
Raise the bucket with a jack and put slight pressure to compress the springs, just enough that you can't move/twist the springs with your hands...and becareful not to jerk the whole entire car off the jacks.
Once you do that, you'll have to adjust the shocks/damper until the hole for the bolt is slightly higher than the current height of the spring bucket bolt hole(about half of the hole) perhaps this is where the 8mm is referring to. Right now the shocks are fully extracted, just remember that the shocks are the things preventing the springs to fully extract also.
Now, you have the jack the spring bucket some more to align the bolt hole in order to slip the bolt through. Make sense? This preloads the springs so when the suspension travels on full extraction, the springs doesn't move around.
Again, this is just for the rear. Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by Deezflip
I think he's trying to figure out the pre-compressed spring setting for the rear. Make sure you achieved your preferred ride height on the springs first and set the perches/collar on the height you want.Raise the bucket with a jack and put slight pressure to compress the springs, just enough that you can't move/twist the springs with your hands...and becareful not to jerk the whole entire car off the jacks.
Once you do that, you'll have to adjust the shocks/damper until the hole for the bolt is slightly higher than the current height of the spring bucket bolt hole(about half of the hole) perhaps this is where the 8mm is referring to. Right now the shocks are fully extracted, just remember that the shocks are the things preventing the springs to fully extract also.
Now, you have the jack the spring bucket some more to align the bolt hole in order to slip the bolt through. Make sense? This preloads the springs so when the suspension travels on full extraction, the springs doesn't move around.
Again, this is just for the rear. Hope this helps.
Quote:
sounds like what i did. f$#$ close enough. kevinOriginally Posted by Deezflip
I found this post of mine about a year ago. maybe it'll help...