DIY: Rear Differential Oil Change
#1
DIY: Rear Differential Oil Change
Complete how-to with pictures (and links to larger ones) on my site.
Steps:
1. Jack up the vehicle, or place it on ramps. The more you can get the car level, front-to-back, the better it is for draining the old fluid and gauging how much new fluid you have. I personally placed the vehicle on four jack stands, two front and two back.
2. Loosen the fill bolt on the passenger side top section of the differential.
3. With a catch container below the differential, loosen the drain bolt and remove. Drain all fluid.
4. As the fluid drains, clean both bolts. The drain bolt has a magnetic tip and you will likely see a lot of gunk/metal flakes stuck to it. Attach new washers as needed (recommended, per the FSM).
5. When the differential is completely drained, re-attach the drain bolt and torque down to 26 ft/lbs.
6. With your method of fluid transfer ready to go, start pumping new fluid into the differential through the fill bolt. We use a fluid pump here, about $10 from your local hardware store. If you get it from Sears, as i have, it’s in the Outdoor/Lawn Mower section. An entire bottle can be transferred in just a few easy pumps. A tip on the pump, the hoses that come with this is rather stiff, it may be worth your while to temporarily zip-tie or tape it near the fill-hole so it doesn’t move or accidentally come off while you’re pumping.
7. As the differential fills-up, you’ll notice some fluid will start overflowing and trickling down. This is a sign you are done. Remove the pump/tubes and let it continue to trickle.
8. Once it stops, attach the fill bolt and tighten to 26 ft/lbs.
9. You are done![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Nasty stuff! This fluid only has 30k miles on it.
Steps:
1. Jack up the vehicle, or place it on ramps. The more you can get the car level, front-to-back, the better it is for draining the old fluid and gauging how much new fluid you have. I personally placed the vehicle on four jack stands, two front and two back.
2. Loosen the fill bolt on the passenger side top section of the differential.
3. With a catch container below the differential, loosen the drain bolt and remove. Drain all fluid.
4. As the fluid drains, clean both bolts. The drain bolt has a magnetic tip and you will likely see a lot of gunk/metal flakes stuck to it. Attach new washers as needed (recommended, per the FSM).
5. When the differential is completely drained, re-attach the drain bolt and torque down to 26 ft/lbs.
6. With your method of fluid transfer ready to go, start pumping new fluid into the differential through the fill bolt. We use a fluid pump here, about $10 from your local hardware store. If you get it from Sears, as i have, it’s in the Outdoor/Lawn Mower section. An entire bottle can be transferred in just a few easy pumps. A tip on the pump, the hoses that come with this is rather stiff, it may be worth your while to temporarily zip-tie or tape it near the fill-hole so it doesn’t move or accidentally come off while you’re pumping.
7. As the differential fills-up, you’ll notice some fluid will start overflowing and trickling down. This is a sign you are done. Remove the pump/tubes and let it continue to trickle.
8. Once it stops, attach the fill bolt and tighten to 26 ft/lbs.
9. You are done
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Nasty stuff! This fluid only has 30k miles on it.
![](http://gshack.org/g/cache/g35-rear-differential-oil-change/gshack_soundmike_rear_differential_oil_change-02.jpg_595.jpg)
#4
#8
![Icon43](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/icon43.gif)
#9
#10
^ Looks exactly like this -- http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html
It's a bit cumbersome to use as the tubes are fairly stiff, but it works.
It's a bit cumbersome to use as the tubes are fairly stiff, but it works.
#13