OEM battery finally went out

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  #16  
Old 10-18-2009, 10:53 PM
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Just replaced mine last week as well. My 06 sedan battery lasted 3 years. Replaced it with the D35 Duralast Gold as well. Starts really fast now.
 
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:32 PM
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My car is 2007 and the battery is OEM. It died once when I went over sea for summer vacation this year. I jump start and drive the car until the battery is recharged back to normal. Would it die any time soon in this winter? How can you tell if your battery is dying in a week or so?
 
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Old 10-19-2009, 01:56 PM
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I just replaced mine two weeks ago with a Duralast Gold. Mine lasted 2.5 years.
 
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:04 PM
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Link on 6MT to Consumer reports best batteries...

http://www.6mt.net/forum/g35-coupe/3...y-ratings.html
 
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:10 PM
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Optima Red top.
 
  #21  
Old 10-19-2009, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SwivelHips
Link on 6MT to Consumer reports best batteries...

http://www.6mt.net/forum/g35-coupe/3...y-ratings.html
nice link thanks ..

p.s.
i like how they have the ""SIMILAR THREADS"" at the bottom of the page....

looks like it could come in very usefull ..
can it be done on this site ??

edit for question: why arent optimas on there ..??
i thought they were the best batteries around .......................?
 
  #22  
Old 10-19-2009, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Phalanx
My car is 2007 and the battery is OEM. It died once when I went over sea for summer vacation this year. I jump start and drive the car until the battery is recharged back to normal. Would it die any time soon in this winter? How can you tell if your battery is dying in a week or so?
I don't know how scientific this is, but I noticed about two weeks before mine died that the horn sounded weak when I locked the doors with the remote. After changing the battery, it's back to it's crisp loud sound rather than the muffled low sound it was making. I think autozone has a load tester than can put on the battery to let you know how many CA the battery has in it. Mine only had 100 CA and wouldn't charge when it died.
 
  #23  
Old 10-19-2009, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by EnviedG35
I dont have any reason to believe its something other than the battery. I have an aftermarket audio system that i use everyday and still havent had any problems with anything. There is always a constant draw on the battery regardless as with any vehicle. The battery was 18 months old....some people are lucky to get 8 months out of theirs. As the guy at AZ said.....Nissan batteries just suck haha.

Also....my maunal mode shifts are much much faster and the radio sounds much better. I thought it was just my imagination...but yesterday after having the new battery in......i was able to put two and two together and realize that the slower shifts and lower audio was due to a weak battery, apparantely.
Actually the constant draw is on the alternator in 07 and up cars. One thing you do have on your system that is out of the 'norm' (as far as Nissan may be concerned) is a grounding kit. If this grounding kit has an additional (or replacement )negative cable to the battery (most seem to do) you most likely have changed the characteristics of the charging circuit. This is because the condition of the battery is not accounted for due to at the minimum partially bypassing the current sensor located on the stock negative battery lead. This sensor sets the intended charging parameters of the alternator IC based on battery state as determined by current draw of the battery. If for example the same size negative cable is installed with the original in place the current sensor will only detect half the battery current.

It may be useful for those with these vehicles to review the FSMs (pardon the formatting):

----------

Component part Description

Battery current sensor

Battery current sensor is installed to the battery cable at the negative
terminal, and it detects the charging/discharging current of
the battery and sends the voltage signal to ECM according to the
current value.

ECM

Battery current sensor detects the charging/discharging current of
the battery. ECM judges the battery condition based on this signal.
ECM judges whether to perform the power generation voltage
variable control according to the battery condition.
When performing the power generation voltage variable control,
ECM calculates the target power generation voltage according to
the battery condition and sends the calculated value as the power
generation command value to IPDM E/R.

IPDM E/R

IPDM E/R converts the received power generation command value
into the power generation command signal (PWM signal) and
sends it to the IC regulator.

Alternator (IC regulator)

IC regulator controls the power generation voltage by the target
power generation voltage based on the received power generation
command signal.

When there is no power generation command signal, the alternator
performs the normal power generation according to the characteristic
of the IC regulator.

----------
 
  #24  
Old 10-19-2009, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Texasscout
Mine lasted over three years. Each time you run it down to dead zero, you lose about half the battery life. Each time you run it down, even as low as ten volts, the plates start to "calcify" and eventually, they won't conduct any more. So run it down three times.... you get the idea.
Not mentioned either is how the recharge rate affects battery life. Many who run down their batteries also recharge them incorrectly.
 
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Old 10-19-2009, 03:25 PM
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My OEM lasted a lil over 3 years, but started to die once I left the lights on a few times. Then it started to hold a 10.5V charge. Swapped it for any Odyssey PC 1200, no problems. Gonna replace it with a 1400 and use the 1200 as backup.
 
  #26  
Old 10-19-2009, 03:29 PM
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afaik mine is OEM...coming up on 7 years, so I guess I'm living on borrowed time! It's possible the previous owner had it replaced with an OEM unit, but I've had the car 2.5 years and the battery was not new when I bought it (unlike the tires and the front bumper paint )
 
  #27  
Old 10-19-2009, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SwivelHips
afaik mine is OEM...coming up on 7 years, so I guess I'm living on borrowed time! It's possible the previous owner had it replaced with an OEM unit, but I've had the car 2.5 years and the battery was not new when I bought it (unlike the tires and the front bumper paint )
wow 7 years?
u must drive your car like once a week. haha

typically from what i hear its like 3 years
 
  #28  
Old 10-19-2009, 08:40 PM
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Pfarmer,

Constant draw when the car isnt running....is placed on the battery. I know that the battery isnt the source or power while the car is running and only used when current draw is excessive of what the alternator can supply. Also, ive had grounding kits on every car ive owned, and have never had any problems that could be linked back to the grounding kit. Grounding kit has been on my car for almost a year now. If the grounding kit presented a problem im sure it would have made itself apparent a long time ago.
 
  #29  
Old 10-19-2009, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by pfarmer
Not mentioned either is how the recharge rate affects battery life. Many who run down their batteries also recharge them incorrectly.
Correct, I was always taught that "slow discharge, slow recharge and vice versa".
 
  #30  
Old 10-19-2009, 10:50 PM
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i've seen the way some people recharge their cars. lets just say chills.
 


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