Clutch on 2008 G35 Manual
#16
12-22-2009, 11:36 AM
Me too Roadtrip
The only thing I can say about this subject is that my experience has been the same as Roadtrip's. I have driven manual transmission cars for over 40 years, and this is the first car I have driven where the clutch is something I have to concentrate on. It really reduces my enjoyment of an otherwise great car.
#17
12-22-2009, 04:14 PM
GJohn,
Thanks for sharing your experience. I removed clutch spring contraption today per instructions in DYI forum and clutch feel is improved. I drove for about 10 miles. Launching from stop and shifting are smoother too. You may want to give this a try. I posted my observations and thoughts in this thread.
DIY: Clutch Fix #2 - Oh what a feeling
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...t-feeling.html
Thanks for sharing your experience. I removed clutch spring contraption today per instructions in DYI forum and clutch feel is improved. I drove for about 10 miles. Launching from stop and shifting are smoother too. You may want to give this a try. I posted my observations and thoughts in this thread.
DIY: Clutch Fix #2 - Oh what a feeling
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...t-feeling.html
#19
12-24-2009, 12:21 PM
No not really. In top of stroke it is actually less. It increases a bit as you press downward progressively, like it should. It allows me to better feel where the clutch engage/disengage point is instead of feeling what that spring contraption is doing to pedal effort.. I think why it is improved is my foot is feeling pedal feedback from actual clutch instead of the clutch and this spring thing. The two combined make it hard to feel what the clutch is actually up to.
You can try it and drive for a few days to see if you like it better. I am betting you will. It only took be about 30 minutes and that is because I am super careful and take twice as long as anyone else to do anything! The more I drive mine the more I am kicking myself for not trying this sooner. I have been driving my car for 20 months with this clutch bugging me the whole time!
If you want to keep it simple and quickly reversible, you can try what I did and remove bottom half of spring assy only: I just pulled bottom c-clip out of bottom pin, then depressed pedal until zero load on pin and slid lower pin out. Then with pedal depressed and no load on spring, slide lower half of spring assy rearward, out of its lower bracket. At this point spring, bottom half, cup at top of spring and anti rattle spring will just fall away from top of spring assy (top and bottom of spring assy are not held together). Try to catch the parts so you can see what order they are in for reassembly if necessary (There is a picture of complete spring assy on DYI thread showing correct order of parts in case you need it). This allows you to leave top (piston) half of spring retainer, top pin and clip in place. They just hang there. Actuate pedal a few times to make sure top half components do not interfere with anything.
Reason I left top half there is I have big hands and access to upper pin (esp to reinstall it and upr c-clip) is limited. At the time I was not sure whether i would like it better with or without spring. So I just left top half there to make re-installation easier. Now, after a few days of driving and being able to launch smoothly, even in 2nd gear, I plan to leave spring assy removed.
I would like to know what purpose of this spring is, mainly to confirm it is ok to drive without it. Not knowing is what kept me from removing it sooner. I have not got good answer yet. But having been a mechanic for a few years, my best guess is removing this spring should not negatively affect clutch performance or operation. My clutch pedal bugged me so much for so long, I figure I'll take my chances. Clutch is so much easier to use without spring.
You can try it and drive for a few days to see if you like it better. I am betting you will. It only took be about 30 minutes and that is because I am super careful and take twice as long as anyone else to do anything! The more I drive mine the more I am kicking myself for not trying this sooner. I have been driving my car for 20 months with this clutch bugging me the whole time!
If you want to keep it simple and quickly reversible, you can try what I did and remove bottom half of spring assy only: I just pulled bottom c-clip out of bottom pin, then depressed pedal until zero load on pin and slid lower pin out. Then with pedal depressed and no load on spring, slide lower half of spring assy rearward, out of its lower bracket. At this point spring, bottom half, cup at top of spring and anti rattle spring will just fall away from top of spring assy (top and bottom of spring assy are not held together). Try to catch the parts so you can see what order they are in for reassembly if necessary (There is a picture of complete spring assy on DYI thread showing correct order of parts in case you need it). This allows you to leave top (piston) half of spring retainer, top pin and clip in place. They just hang there. Actuate pedal a few times to make sure top half components do not interfere with anything.
Reason I left top half there is I have big hands and access to upper pin (esp to reinstall it and upr c-clip) is limited. At the time I was not sure whether i would like it better with or without spring. So I just left top half there to make re-installation easier. Now, after a few days of driving and being able to launch smoothly, even in 2nd gear, I plan to leave spring assy removed.
I would like to know what purpose of this spring is, mainly to confirm it is ok to drive without it. Not knowing is what kept me from removing it sooner. I have not got good answer yet. But having been a mechanic for a few years, my best guess is removing this spring should not negatively affect clutch performance or operation. My clutch pedal bugged me so much for so long, I figure I'll take my chances. Clutch is so much easier to use without spring.
Last edited by Roadtrip; 12-27-2009 at 10:17 AM.
#20
12-30-2009, 01:57 PM
I've been springless on the pedal since InTg8r made his DIY thread and experienced no problems, nor should I expect to.
#21
12-30-2009, 02:01 PM
It is not you. I too have been driving manuals for about 30 years and this car made me feel like a novice at driving MT. I have been driving my 2008 G35S MT for 1yr8mos and I STILL stall occasionally when leaving from a stand still. This is the only clutch I have to consciously think about every time I use it. In my opinion if you have to think about it that much, there is something wrong with it. Any other manual I drive smoothly by reflex instinctively, no conscious thought required. This car has the worst clutch engagement/feel of any manual I have ever driven. I can honestly say that because I have driven quite a few in the last 30 years: Saabs, Fiat, Sunbeam Lotus, Simcas, Peugeots, Renaults, Daewoo,Talbots, Corvette, S-10 pickup... and I never even really noticed or gave any thought to the clutch in any of these cars.
Otherwise I really like my G. But if i do sell it, it will be in a large part due to its really bad clutch engagement, take up, inconsistent pedal push back force.
I read the clutch fix#1 thread a long time ago but never tried it. I just didn't think I should have to resort to these types of fixes in an Infiniti So I didn't do it and thought I would get used to it. Well, I didn't! Clutch fix#2 looks easier and quicker to implement. I wonder if Fix#2 will provide improvement without having done Fix#1 first? I guess it should be easy enough to try and find out. Intgr8r, thanks for posting these up btw.
I feel there are a few other factors that aggravate clutch issue in G: low flywheel weight, I definitely would not go lighter. And ECM does not increase RPM when you let clutch out slowly in an effort to maintain idle RPM. On my S10 pickup, i can let clutch out slowly in traffic without touching throttle and not stall it because as if I let it out slowly, as load is placed on engine, ECM automatically opens throttle a bit to maintain 850RPM idle. If G had this feature, it would cut amount of times I stall in half. there are a few other issues I have noticed with ECM on G that really need updating but that is a whole other subject and thread!
Otherwise I really like my G. But if i do sell it, it will be in a large part due to its really bad clutch engagement, take up, inconsistent pedal push back force.
I read the clutch fix#1 thread a long time ago but never tried it. I just didn't think I should have to resort to these types of fixes in an Infiniti So I didn't do it and thought I would get used to it. Well, I didn't! Clutch fix#2 looks easier and quicker to implement. I wonder if Fix#2 will provide improvement without having done Fix#1 first? I guess it should be easy enough to try and find out. Intgr8r, thanks for posting these up btw.
I feel there are a few other factors that aggravate clutch issue in G: low flywheel weight, I definitely would not go lighter. And ECM does not increase RPM when you let clutch out slowly in an effort to maintain idle RPM. On my S10 pickup, i can let clutch out slowly in traffic without touching throttle and not stall it because as if I let it out slowly, as load is placed on engine, ECM automatically opens throttle a bit to maintain 850RPM idle. If G had this feature, it would cut amount of times I stall in half. there are a few other issues I have noticed with ECM on G that really need updating but that is a whole other subject and thread!
The poor feedback that I had complaints about in the beginning were entirely resolved with that DIY.
The following users liked this post:
nebur (08-14-2011)
#22
01-07-2010, 07:56 PM
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just an update for everyone. I got the JWT clutch and Flywheel installed and have put about 1000 miles on it alreay.
It was about $1200 in parts and $400 in labor and the clutch feel and performance is much better. Along with the Stillen Stage 2 intake I installed the car is more enjoyable to drive.
I am considering installing the Stillen Cat-Back Dual exhausts. The Stillen website claims ~ 9hp at the wheels gain from that. Any feedback on the performance of this exhaust. While sounds is fine I'm more interested in performance.
It was about $1200 in parts and $400 in labor and the clutch feel and performance is much better. Along with the Stillen Stage 2 intake I installed the car is more enjoyable to drive.
I am considering installing the Stillen Cat-Back Dual exhausts. The Stillen website claims ~ 9hp at the wheels gain from that. Any feedback on the performance of this exhaust. While sounds is fine I'm more interested in performance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
newbdriver01
G35 Cars
2
07-15-2015 06:10 PM
