I'd like to, but what with the underengine panels I want to be prepared for any hitches. Don't need to start the process only to find out I needed something else to begin with and not have a car to drive to the store!!

Where, besides the dealer, can I get the right crush washers?

How much clearance do I need (what method did you use to elevate the vehicle)?

Do I have to remove the underengine panel entirely? Does it slide? How is it attached?

Anyone have torque specs on the crush washer and the filter?

I might still just take the oil and filters I buy to jiffy lube but they do charge a lot for a simple job. then again, my time is money...

thanks guys n gals.

 

Have you ever changed oil before?

 

uhhh yes. just not on my brand new G35.

 

Same concept you have a little slot in the underengine panel the oil pan screw in right there and the oil filter in just above it a little to the right.

 

so what do you do as far as keeping a record of all changes for warranty purposes ?

 

lol im using amsoil too... just got my Ea filter today!

but im using their extended life oil instead of the asl. ill be doing 7500 mile changes.

 

yeah my oil is on backorder too

 

I don't drive that much with my G. I probablly only drive line 3000KM in 3 months. According to the maintain schedule, I suppose to change oil every 3 months. Will warranty be void if I change my engine oil every 4-5 months?

I ask the dealer if I can follow schedule 2, they told me that I must use syntetic if I follow shceudle 2, is this true? I don't see anything mention in the service booklet about syntetic.

 

When using the ramps, obviously the front of the car is raised. Will all the oil drain out of the pan this way? Silly question, but I can nearly crawl under my F350 to access the drain plug so the vehicle is level.

 

yeah that's a valid point that i also considered. but i do believe using four ramps isn't the most safe condition.

i'll probably use jackstands and my floor jack. anyone know what the *central* jack points are for the car, front and rear (usually the differential, but not always)?

 

You will be fine with just two front ramps.
With my Z06 I had to keep it level as it had baffles in the oil pan. There would be information and warnings in the service manual if you needed to take any precautions.

 

I literally changed my oil yesterday, and besides the time it took to take the under body panel off it was a peice of cake. WAAAAYYY eaiser than my previous car (an 05 MB).

Parts:
- $6 Fram Filter (Part 6007 I think, same as an 06 if the book at the store doesnt have an 07 part listed)
- $35 5W 30 Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil 5 QT + 1 QT (Just happens to be my preference. Anything is fine as long as its 5W 30, or 10W 30 above 0 degrees)

Anyway here's how I did it, took about 30 minutes:

1. Jack up the car, use ramps or whatever. I have a 2 ton hydraulic jack that I picked up at walmart for like $40. Its a lot easier to deal with and with one side up you'll still have enough space to work on the car. I jacked the right front (passenger) side up. The jack mounts are about 6 inches behind the tire and past the side skirt.

2. Remove the center undercarrage plastic skirt. Its the one that runs in the center and across the nose of the car. Mine had a big "A" stamped into it. There are a TON of screws. Its a lot easier if you have a buddy. Basically a couple turns with a ratchet and then you can take each one off by hand. I racheted, by buddy followed behind and removed.

There are three plastic clips in the center of the plastic skirt. Use a flat head, under the round circular part to pop it off.

3. Unscrew drain plug and let oil out. (You should have the drain screw up top on the manifold off too, makes it easier for the oil to flow)

4. Unscrew oil filter. If its the stock one, it should be white and looks like a tiny soda can.

5. Put on your new oil filter.

6. Put that drain plug back in.

7. Add 5 1/8s quart of oil.

8. Seal everything back up. Run the engine for a minute and then check your oil level. Should be between the two dots on your dip stick.

 

I'd go with the OEM filter. I think with VW's, if you use low grade filter and your car breaks down, they can void your warranty. Only if they can prove that the cheap filter caused the problem, of course.

 

i do. not bad at all. make sure you drain it. replace filter and then refill it.

 

rofl, really?