one more question: what about the camber kit so the tire can wore out evenly?

 

Chops,
I hope you don't mind, but I pasted your two picts together to make it easier to make a comparison.
The top picture is stock, the bottom with the Eibach springs.



153929-spring comparo.JPG

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

why the hell would u want to lower ur [censored] to being that low, I think the car is low enough, and seriously would those springs on I think it looks stupid as hell. my 2 cents

<hr></blockquote>

Because some people like the look of a lowered car. If you think it's low enough then don't lower yours.

G35C Blk, 6MT, Lthr, Aero, Prem

 

Ok here's some answers to the various questions up on here:

First off, lowering your car helps in two ways. The first, I'll keep it simple and to the point, by lowering the center of gravity, you can gain better handling, and second, it give your ride a more sporty "street machine" look.

The ride after you swap springs will in fact get a little stiffer, but from my experience with both Sprint and Eibach springs, the diference in ride isnt that much. On a scale from 1 to 10, 10 being like stock and 1 being really bad, I will rate both the Sprints and Eibachs at a high 8!

If you stick to the more commom 1 to 1.75" drop and keep within an 18-19" rim (with the correct offset), you shouldn't have any rubbing problems (as I'm running 1.75" sprint springs with 19" rims); however, if you opt for a 20" rim, you will need to be careful in selecting the right rim width and offset, as that's when you may run into some rubbing issues if you go lower than 1".

The suspension doesnt bottom out, but the cars stupidy low exhaust components will under extreme conditions. The Coupe is low as it is right off the showroom floor, so lowering it any further really doesnt help much (to those who live in bad road or bumpy areas). You need to be cautious driving into dips and whatnot.

The handling once again will improve due to the lower center of gravity of the vehicle offered by the stiffer springs.

The stock shocks seem to be working fine for now, but I do believe they will die out faster with aftermarket springs. When, who knows, but being that I myself will one day take the coil over route, I'm not that worried.

The cost of springs vary from $150 to $200, and depending on where you go to install them, you could pay anywhere from $200 to $400.

You will also need an alignment afterwards. The front you can pretty much work with, but for the rears you will need adjustable camber rods, so you can remove some of that negative camber that result from the drop. If you dont, you will begin to get more wear on the inner section of the tires, vs the outer thus killing your tires in half the time. This will also slow your car down and give you even worse gas milage, as you're not riding on the flat part of the tire. Camber arms range in price from $225 to $400+ and are easy to install.

One other suggestion I want to make, SWAY BARS! The cheapest and most awesome bang for your buck! You will notice a night and day diference with sway bars, and then add a drop kit and maybe some large and wide tires - your G will now be an auto-x animal!





"See, the problem is that God gives men a brain and a *****, but only enough blood to run one at a time."

 

Thank you for all your answers! I hope you don't mind if I pick your brain just a little more...

Does the stiffer ride end up feeling like the 350Z, or is it still smoother? Also, with regards to rubbing... any idea what width rim/tire combo would start to be a problem?

Thanks again for taking the time to answer all those questions... big help!

 

The G in stock form rides a tad bit smoother than the Z. When you take the spring route on the G, the ride becomes almost equal to that of Z, with maybe a hint more stifness. Second, the shocks on the G have a higher dampening rate than that of the Z's so that plays a huge role too.

In regards to rims, well here on the forum you'll find an asortment of tire and wheel combinations. From 17" to 20, but for the most part, the largest wheel that I have seen on such cars like the G and Z is a 20x10" rim, but I'm not quite sure if these guys have lowered their cars with such large wheels?



"See, the problem is that God gives men a brain and a *****, but only enough blood to run one at a time."

 

Do you really need camber arms with just a 1-2" drop??? Is there any way to regulate the camber without having to change it?

 

Well you dont have to get em to make the drop work, but if you want to retain the longevity of your Pilots and keep traction (straight run traction) at its peak, then yes you'll want to get them!

Other wise in as little as 3-5K miles you'll notice significant inner tire wear....



"See, the problem is that God gives men a brain and a *****, but only enough blood to run one at a time."

 

Even if do a proper alignment on the car? This sucks to have to spend an extra $400 + installation for the kit. Is this just a G thing? I always had lowered cars and never had to buy a kit like that nor had any major tire wear on my cars.

 

Yes - It's a G-thing!

As for spending $400, dont! You can get em from Kinetix racing for around $200. Some guy on eBay sells them. Look into it!



"See, the problem is that God gives men a brain and a *****, but only enough blood to run one at a time."

 

You might want to check out the
<a href="https://g35driver.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=14&Number=105249&page=&vie w=&sb=&part=all&vc=1">discussion we had about lowering several months ago.</a>


03 6MT coupe, red/willow, premium, aero, splash guards, alum pedals, clear corners, 15% tint

 

hey ducati,

read your post above and you say the fronts can be worked with but the rear needs adjustable camber rods. are you sure?

i'm not a mechanic or anything, but I looked at my alignment paperwork, and the shop were able to adjust the rear tires back into spec. the fronts are the ones that CANNOT be adjusted. I have a coupe.

Rear Left (Spec is -1.0 to -2.0):
before alignment: -2.5
after alignment: -1.8

Rear Right (Spec is -1.0 to -2.0):
before alignment: -2.1
after alignment: -1.8

Front Left (Spec is 0.3 to -1.3):
before/after alignment: -1.6

Front Right
before/after alignment: -1.8

The rear right and left toe numbers were also brought into spec.

basically the only things that are still out of spec are the front camber, toe and SAI.

hope this clears things up. i still don't think there is anything out there to adjust the front tires.

6MT Coupe, DG/G, Prem

 

I just insalled TANABE lowering springs and the car is amazing as far as handling. I have bottomed out with the 1.5-1.75" drop, but i was in an unlikely place. With the stock rims, it is hard to tell the car is lowered unless you pull up to another Gcoupe or look at the wheel well gap. The ride is much stiffer and I like the camber setting after the install. GET IT ALIGNED like the day after.I will try to post pics asap.

Ivory Pearl / 6MT / Aero / Premium / Xenon Lights Everywhere / Mirror Tint / Injen CAI / Tanabe Racing Springs

 

actually you need to wait about a week or two before getting it aligned so your stuff an settle out.


03 BS/Graph 6MT Prem Cp
19" Gunny TE37 275/30 MichPSports
kg/mm springs
camber rods
injenCAI/SES
Alpine/JL/Stinger
2Din

 

Not true. The alignment has no effect on the settling of the car. They will settle with mileage and some ard driving. The alignment can be screwed up by driving around after springs are installed. If you try to drive the car hard with it unaligned, then when you go to finally do it, it will never be the same.

Ivory Pearl / 6MT / Aero / Premium / Xenon Lights Everywhere / Mirror Tint / Injen CAI / Tanabe Racing Springs