before I begin here is my current setup:

Tanabe DF210 G35 COUPE progressive springs 1.7”/1.3” drop on G35 coupe, G35 sedan drop will be higher
Spring rates in LBS 308 /353

and

Stock shocks. I have the SPC camber kit for both front and rear.


Got an alignment recently and just in time too. 4 months earlier i bought new tires only to have them replaced(rear only) because the wires were showing already, but only on the inside. I was on -3 rear camber... so i told the alignment shop to get my camber to get it almost flat to save tire life. unfortunately, they said that the toe bolts were too short and that I need toe arms? so I now I am running with my rear tires "toe in"? (if u were looking from the back, at the rear left tire, the side of the tire closer to you is sticking out more than the side further away from you) hope that makes sense. need help to ensure road safety? thank you

 

Toe in will eat tires much faster than camber. Get that fixed first.

 

When you installed the toe bolts, did you elongate the holes on the subframe like the instructions said to? There should be plenty of adjustment with the spc toe bolts if you installed them correctly on the end of the spring bucket.

 

yea, i myt be better off doing that than trying to get the camber as close to flat as possible.

i honestly dont even know. I hope the shop installed it correctly because I was not around when they installed it(school). is there an easy way to tell?

 

i think if you look down there, the holes that the bolts go through should be a bit mangled and extended

 

I dont know much about alignments but I am under the assumption that the shops have a baseline for factory setting correct? or should i just tell them to set my toe to 0?

 

No, you need a small bit of "toe-in" in the back to make it track right. I think it's like 0.05deg or something like that, it's not much. If they didn't elongate the mounting holes, you can't adjust them. You will need to remove one side and see if that was done. If not it's not hard to do it. A dremel tool and a carbide bit will go through the aluminum like a hot knife through butter. You don't need much it's like a 1/4 of an inch on the drive shaft side of the hole.

 

correct. i just got off the phone with an alignment tech from spc and they said I should not be having issues. assuming its only 1.3" drop. he mentioned that the toe slot should be 28 mm deep and that the test is that the toe bolt should be able to do a complete 360 and not get stuck. what i forgot to ask which direction i should be elongating to since the template is not available online
*edit found this info on page 9 lol*


I did find this on my search though for anyone else who needs it. not sure how different it is on a G but at least it gives me an idea.

http://turboneticsownersclub.com/tur...oltinstall.pdf

does anyone else know of anything else I might have left off the checklist?

 

check the location of the spc toe bolt first and make sure they actually installed it on the end of the springbucket. If they did, then mark the location of the toe bolt, and then pull one of them to check if they elongated the holes. If you don't know what you are doing though, have another shop check it out for you. Bring the instructions from SPC. This is the most likely cause.

 

update: so even after elongating the holes (thanks to Chris aka G35Papa for sending the template) the "best" they could get my camber and toe is:

LF Camber RF Camber
-1.1 ======= -1.1
LF Toe RF Toe
0.03 === 0.03


LR Camber RR Camber
-1.6 ======= -1.7
LR Toe RR Toe
0.96 === 0.88

Front looks okay, its the rear I am concerned about. I didnt realize the drop in the rear is that significant...? Just to give you guys an idea, from superior midline of the wheel and inferior midline of the fender, the gap is 2.30"-2.35" I know a lot of you are a loooooot lower than that, how did you fix this problem? Do u guys think an adjustable rear toe arm can help get my rear toes closer to 0.03? Thank you guys

 

that doesn't seem right still. Can you post a pic of your subframe?

 

man, I should have taken a pic while it was up on the lift is there anything in particular I should zoom in on the picture?

*as far as camber is concerned though, the rear settings are okay right? its just the toes?*

 

i didn't think that much toe in could even be dialed into the suspension. What were the before numbers? You are sure the toe bolts were installed on the end of the spring bucket and not the camber arm right? With that much toe in, you should be able to see the wheel angling in significantly when you look at the wheel from above

 

surprisingly the toe was much better before(i think)
LR Camber = -2.7
LR Toe = 0.47

RR Camber = -3.1
RR Toe = 0.00

and yes, the toe bolts were installed on the frame of the car and not the toe arm itself. and correct, I can physically see the wheel being in a "toe in" setting, I'm just happy I can drive past 35mph without having the ride feel like its gonna take off towards the other lanes

 

I have the same problem. my driver side rear wont toe out when I put the camber at 0.
I also have the SPC kit. Im lowered on the Eibach sport line. I had the shop set my toe at 0 and my camber is way off. what can i do?