Wheels & Tires Grabbing the road and stopping.

What Do You Guys Think?(wheels)

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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 09:26 AM
  #31  
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i like it more if it was like this...

 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 12:04 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dkhuynh
are those from wheeldudes? i was thinking about getting those bbs reps.
Yep they are
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #33  
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looks good!!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 01:52 PM
  #34  
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i like it..looks clean..
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:40 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Lucky-G
Except the part where you've got more meat being put down to the ground...do some research before you post brother.

I'll be running a 9.5 +28
Actually, on a car like the G35, staggered isn't going to help you handle any better and chances are it's going to make the car handle worse by introducing a lot of understeer. The point of staggering the wheel/tire width is to assist in traction on cars with high powered motors and/or rear engine layouts. It's also there to keep oversteer down by introducing some understeer. Adding much stagger (1"+) is going to make the G/Z drive more like a FWD car rather than a RWD car. It might look cool, but it's not going to help much in terms of overall performance. Now if you've got forced induction, then a staggered setup might be a idea to keep down the oversteer and give you more confidence in the turns.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 04:00 PM
  #36  
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Helps me with traction. I would have 12" wide on the rear with 345's if they fit!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ttrank
Helps me with traction. I would have 12" wide on the rear with 345's if they fit!
You can make anything fit with enough money, Tim!!!

DOOOOOOOO IT!!
-GP-
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #38  
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I like the look of the wheels
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #39  
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By my rough calculations, if you were using say a 285 (ideal size for a 10") you would need something like 4+ degrees of additional camber to clear the same amount I get right now and I'm still rubbing a bit in corners until I roll the fenders but the tires sit perfectly flush with the stock fender. You'd probably need less camber if you stretch a 255 on there but that really seems counterintuitive to spend that much on the rim only to stretch a tiny tire on, tip it on its corner, and look like your axles snapped. I briefly contemplated buying coupe wheels when people said you could make them fit but then I realized you'd be putting in so much camber, you might as well roll on spares in back. IIRC drift cars run 8-9" rims w/ negative offsets and stretched tires on them with the goal to have the looks but minimal contact patch since traction is the enemy.

I'm running a 10.5" at +54 and a 10" at +20 would stick out 1.1" further given the same camber. Staggering 255/295's are overkill for my car but they came like this and it's damned near impossible to find an actual wheel this wide suitable for a sedan w/o going custom. At the very least, I'm not lowering my traction by putting in aggressive camber. Maybe it'll be incentive to build the car for enough hp to actually need that much tire.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:56 PM
  #40  
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Q50 Red Sport 400 RWD
too much negative camber up front
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:59 PM
  #41  
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i dont think ill need rediculous amounts of camber. at my current height, i had a 10" wide wheel on the rear with a +42 offset and a 275 wide tire and i had room to play with to clear a lower offset wheel. keep in mind i DO have rolled fenders, and i will flare the fenders if need be, but i doubt it. the 19x10+20 with a 245 tire should fit fine without excessive camber
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:18 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by mishap
By my rough calculations, if you were using say a 285 (ideal size for a 10") you would need something like 4+ degrees of additional camber to clear the same amount I get right now and I'm still rubbing a bit in corners until I roll the fenders but the tires sit perfectly flush with the stock fender. You'd probably need less camber if you stretch a 255 on there but that really seems counterintuitive to spend that much on the rim only to stretch a tiny tire on, tip it on its corner, and look like your axles snapped. I briefly contemplated buying coupe wheels when people said you could make them fit but then I realized you'd be putting in so much camber, you might as well roll on spares in back. IIRC drift cars run 8-9" rims w/ negative offsets and stretched tires on them with the goal to have the looks but minimal contact patch since traction is the enemy.

I'm running a 10.5" at +54 and a 10" at +20 would stick out 1.1" further given the same camber. Staggering 255/295's are overkill for my car but they came like this and it's damned near impossible to find an actual wheel this wide suitable for a sedan w/o going custom. At the very least, I'm not lowering my traction by putting in aggressive camber. Maybe it'll be incentive to build the car for enough hp to actually need that much tire.
You're also only dropped on Z springs... If you lowered your car 2" then you'd have plenty of room.

It's a look that is not for everyone and a concept that nearly NOBODY gets, but for those who do, they enjoy the look. No use in trying to talk any of us that like the look out of doing it, we're going to do it whether you like it or not.
-GP-
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:29 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Gdup35sedan
You're also only dropped on Z springs... If you lowered your car 2" then you'd have plenty of room.

It's a look that is not for everyone and a concept that nearly NOBODY gets, but for those who do, they enjoy the look. No use in trying to talk any of us that like the look out of doing it, we're going to do it whether you like it or not.
-GP-
Not really expecting to talk anyone out of anything...just commenting how difficult it is to get a +20 into a G sedan. Also, I'm not quite sure how lowering further improves rubbing issues outside of going past the point of interference which is further increasing camber angle? Are your fenders pulled out and the car lowered past where they would normally hit or are you just mashing the tire past the fender on your way lower? My understanding is the rear suspension moves in a fairly simple arc and lowering a car further wouldn't change the path of the wheel...just where in that arc it sits when at rest.

As for performance, its not like my 20's are helping anything on my car. Ideally the G would probably ride on forged 17x10" wheels just big enough to clear the brakes and wide enough to support as much tire they could fit under the car.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:36 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by mishap
I briefly contemplated buying coupe wheels when people said you could make them fit but then I realized you'd be putting in so much camber, you might as well roll on spares in back. IIRC drift cars run 8-9" rims w/ negative offsets and stretched tires on them with the goal to have the looks but minimal contact patch since traction is the enemy.
Coupe wheels really don't need too much camber to clear, they're a pretty minimal drop in offset IIRC.

8-9" wide? Try 12" lol. Or at least in the pro circuits.

Also, the massive amounts of camber are NOT there to reduce grip. The thought that drifters don't want grip is a huge misconception thrown around by people who haven't been involved in the sport. Grip is a GOOD thing in drifting, as you have to be able to control the car. If they didn't want grip, they'd just oil the entire track.

The massive amounts of camber are there so that when you throw all of the momentum and weight of the car sideways at 75+ mph, as the suspensions geometry moves, the outside wheel becomes flatter to the ground, which provides MORE traction.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:40 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mishap
Not really expecting to talk anyone out of anything...just commenting how difficult it is to get a +20 into a G sedan. Also, I'm not quite sure how lowering further improves rubbing issues outside of going past the point of interference which is further increasing camber angle? Are your fenders pulled out and the car lowered past where they would normally hit or are you just mashing the tire past the fender on your way lower? My understanding is the rear suspension moves in a fairly simple arc and lowering a car further wouldn't change the path of the wheel...just where in that arc it sits when at rest.

As for performance, its not like my 20's are helping anything on my car. Ideally the G would probably ride on forged 17x10" wheels just big enough to clear the brakes and wide enough to support as much tire they could fit under the car.
when you lower the car, you allow more room for the stretched tire to tuck into the fender. It introduces more negative camber, and when you're putting wide wheels with low offsets on a sedan and stretching tires, you need negative camber.

Like i said earlier... to fit a 19x10 +20 on a G sedan with around a 2" drop, all you need is around -1.8 camber and a 255/35 tire, or a 245/40 like the OP wants to run.

-1.8 camber is NOTHING... i've ran up to -3.5 on my sedan and the tires didnt wear that fast, as long as the TOE is in spec, you're fine. TOE is the real tire killer.
-GP-
 
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