T1S's have a cast center....

 

i called it

 

I got the ichiba 10mm spacers with extended lugs separate, its more time consuming to take off the old lugs, but at the end it pays off.

 

Well Son this is why you shouidlve bought Project Kic spacers ;D

 

Not about to bore out a hole on a set of wheels that I spent 3k on. I hope you did the proper research when you ordered your wheels so you don't run into the same issue as me. Save you some time, some money, and a headache.

Yea when I had 25mm V2's on my Rays, I noticed that they were flush so that was never an issue with it. I honestly don't want to run that big of a spacer just to be able to have the back of the of my wheel face sit flush with the spacer itself. It would put me at a -10 all around and I know with that offset, I'd have to run -3 degrees of camber, give or take .5 degrees.

I like the whole stance scene and all, but the -10 offset is just too aggressive for me.

I'm just going to find a set of 15mm V1's and call it a day. I really only need to run spacers for my front A-Disc face, but I don't want my front to be closer to flush then my rears. It is the reason why I'm trying to match it all around. If I can get away with running a 10mm spacer to clear a set of Brembos on my A-Disc face, then I will do that.

I now stand corrected in my first assumption. Thanks for the info.

Alex, in the end it isn't the kind of spacer I used. I would have run into the same issue if I bought the bolt on hub Project Kic spacers as well. The issue isn't the quality of the spacer, the issue is that my wheel doesn't allow me to run a V2 style spacer because there are only 4/5 holes on the back of my wheel face that lets me do it.

 

[QUOTE=konxeptionz;5452022]Not about to bore out a hole on a set of wheels that I spent 3k on. I hope you did the proper research when you ordered your wheels so you don't run into the same issue as me. Save you some time, some money, and a headache.


when i ordered my wheels, i let them know i was planning on running oem brembos in the future and that's why i was ordering rdisk for the front. Work Wheels ended up calling a couple of days later and said i should get the tdisk instead just to be on the safe side.

i cant be positive because im not there to see your wheel in person and how the backside sits against the spacer but from the pics it looks like that small hole on the back of your rim where the 5th hole should be would fit right over the oem stud if it was bored a couple of mm or so. i cant see it doing any harm to the rim but im no wheel designer so who knows aside from Work.

i guess the next less expensive thing to do would be to dremil that 1 stud flush on each hub. if you ever wanted to remove the spacers or put on your oem wheels you would only need to buy and replace 4 studs.

 

^^ Again, taking a dremel to the hole to make the spacer fit is NOT an option. I will NOT go with a cheap and crappy route to make a spacer fit when there is a proper way to do it.

 

hes saying to dremel the stud down. but either way, im with you. dont drill or cut

 

He suggested both, actually, Eric. But I am glad that you and I agree that cutting / drilling / dremelling is a bad idea.

I don't mind losing a bit of money on my own mistake, since it was my fault entirely for not checking ahead of time and just assuming. It can be made right by just ordering the correct style spacer.

In the end, I just want it done right and not to cut any corners.