Is anyone using the Eibach camber kit? If so, how do you like it? I'm pretty sure they only make one for the rear, is that right? Also, do you have to get the toe adjustment kit?

 

I'm bumping this because i have the same question as above. Anyone using this kit? Is it better than the SPC kit?

 

Yes, if your planning on lowering, your going to need to get cambers all around unless! you like the look of uneven wearing on your tires. I'am selling my front Performance Nissan arms and rear Stillen cambers for a good deal! PM if your interesred!!!

 

It is wrong to say if your planning on lowering your going to need camber fixes all the way around.

The need or requirement for aftermarket alignment parts is directly linked to the amount of drop you give your car and which set of alignment specs to aim to be within. G sedan specs, G coupe specs, or 350Z specs.

 

Eibach's only makes a rear kit for camber and toe, nothing for the front thus far. Since the kit tries to adjust toe from a non oem location, the radius rod, you are better off picking a kit that adjusts toe from the proper oem location.

The SPC kit remains the best choice in the rear for the G and Z. You can either buy their camber arm kit with the elongated toe cam bolts or the kit without the arms, just 2 set's of elongated toe and camber bolts.

On the question of needing a toe kit. As you correct camber in the rear, it takes away toe in. Correct for certain amount of camber and your toe in goes out of spec and to get it back you have to have the aftermarket toe adjustor's. You want to adjust toe from the oem location, not with any of the adjustable arms out their, (in the FSM it's labeled as a radius rod). The only reason to alter that rod is to kill off a bushing flex point, not to try and adjust toe.

 

Gsedan35- how do those SPC elongated bolts work? For instance camber bolts...
SPC states that the user just drill a larger hole in the OE adjustment location.
Even if the opening for the rod is larger, the elongated washer still gets supported
by the same chassis holder where the factory elongated washer was held by,
correct?

How do they manage to get more adjustment from the same chassis supports for
the elongated washers? I think SPC claims +/-3 degrees of adjustment over
the factory's +/-1 degree.

and then also, if you did have that much adjustability from the OE camber
adjustment pivot point, the pivot point itself will change location. I would think
you would want to maintain the factory pivot point but just shorten the rod
so that only the radius is shorter.

im just wondering...

 

btw, for those that are interested, I was able to get my car aligned to
-1.4 degrees camber and 0.19 degrees toe-in each side on the rear using just
the Stillen camber rods. My ride height with prokit at the time was 364mm
from fender to center of wheel.

My car settled about 9mm lower since then (sitting at 355mm) I need to go back
and get her aligned again. The rear camber looks at about -2.5 and toe-in
probably in the neighborhood of 0.13-0.15 each side based on my previous
alignment experience and changes that were seen before the adjustments.

btw:
My car looks fine, unlike those driving around with eibachs on factory
adjustment-only setup. with their rear toe-in, the camber looks pretty bad
without the rods...like -4 camber