yeah but their spacers only go up to 20mm. i pmed to ask about larger but they said its unsafe and too large. i figured using the arps would be ok but idk. i was reading that with higher horse power like forced induction, its better to extend the studs and use a spacer as a spacer vs a spacer as an adaptor which the extended lugs from the spacer would effectively be doing. got that info from gzillas thread https://g35driver.com/forums/nationa...ocumented.html

any insight? anyone run spacers with built in extended studs with a boosted car? or extended studs with 25mm+ slip on spacers on fi?

 

Did they happen to say why they were unsafe?

 

narp. heres the full pm.

i figured with the arp extended studs it would be ok but i definitely dont have any expertise on the matter

 

The bolts aren't there to bend, the hub centric connection between the wheel and the hub itself (why we need hub spacers) is what holds together the connection. The lugs keep it honest. A longer stud does not improve anything strength wise, it just gives lugs more threads to keep the torque honest. Built in stud spacers make everyone's life a whole lot easier when it comes to installing a more aggressive setup. And it makes going back to stock much easier. Plus you don't have to worry about incorrectly installing studs (SNAP!).

 

Shear point is the same. That is not how lug nuts work lols.

 

http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo...d-studs-2.html

Evo forum I know, but if you are planning on tracking the car you have to ask your local track if they allow hub centric style spacers. Also, your wheels will have to have the cut outs to allow the stud nuts... See the back of OEM wheels for example.

 

You are going to want 6 full rotations or get the lugs that Go deeper into the stud by having that extra length at the bottom of the connection.

 

I forgot how much longer arp over stock. I can measure and let you know.

 

Kinda odd that they won't sell spacera once they become too large due to safety issues if that's not how it works. Its also odd that lateral movement would snap a lug if the hubcentric ring is taking all the energy. Hell, what do we need to worry about shear points at all if all the lugs are doing is keeping the wheel on..?

 

I'm pretty sure slip on spacers a unsafe because of the fact there is play within the spacer and the studs so even with the rim being torqued properly there is still that possibility of movement under torque and because of that play it will essentially turn the stud in to a lever which in turn would weaken it shear capacity like if you have two tree branches exactly the same it's easier to cut the bent one. That's why they make bolt on spacers to eliminate that play so it's almost as if the rim is bolted directly to the hub itself. If you want a tip get a properly sized rim and don't use spacers that's your best choice.

 

Ichiba 25mm at about 490whp. That was with stock wheels and a 255 tire. No issues.

 

Lucky. We've had a few cars come in with broken studs and one that lost a wheel

 

Do you remember the circumstances?
I know spacers have a tendency to fail when not installed properly.

 

Not off the top of my head it was on a few different cars not just the G/Z. Some were definatley installed wrong... spacers on spacers (idiots). Even though it's not a real common problem I still prefer no spacers although I may need a 5-10mm on my fronts after I get a camber kit but my tires are wearing just fine so I'm not in a rush.

 

Good point. I will say I've been acting a donkey with 25mm bolt on spacers in the rear for almost 2 years.