Wheels & Tires Grabbing the road and stopping.

Noob question on lowering *please don't flame me*

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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 03:18 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by skeleton_cru
One degree outside of spec or just one degree?
Sry, I meant just 1 degree, but since we're on it, i'm guessing that the situation worsen on an exponential scale? Like 2 degrees will be twice as bad and 3 will be around 4 times as bad?

Is there a rule of thumb a G owner can follow to predict negative camber? For example, if you lower by 1" from stock, you will get -1.5 degree?

And CKwik, thanks for the comprehensive post. It cleared up the clouds...
 
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 10:13 AM
  #17  
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Sedan
Minus one degree would still be within spec so it shouldn't be a problem. Sorry I don't know the answer to your other questions.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 04:55 PM
  #18  
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From: SOCAL
Originally Posted by haze
Sry, I meant just 1 degree, but since we're on it, i'm guessing that the situation worsen on an exponential scale? Like 2 degrees will be twice as bad and 3 will be around 4 times as bad?

Is there a rule of thumb a G owner can follow to predict negative camber? For example, if you lower by 1" from stock, you will get -1.5 degree?

And CKwik, thanks for the comprehensive post. It cleared up the clouds...

I've never actually seen anything published to that extent, but it would make sense to be the case. Adding more negative camber takes less load off the outside edge of the tire. And the more you add, the more it does this. And if your car has any toe in or out, it would increase the wear with excess camber as well. Tires are designed to have some small amount of negative camber to perform well. Even when going straight. I ran about 3 degrees negative on my 240sx on the front MacPherson Struts and they wore fairly evenly. But I drive pretty hard and forced wear on the outer shoulders by taking turns pretty fast all the time. When my commute got longer though, I did notice the inside edges wearing a bit faster in relation to the outside.

Yes, technically, the camber gain from lowering should be predictable, but I don't have any data. You'ld also need to know where you started and where you are ending. And for double wishbone suspensions and it's multi-link variants, the camber gain accellerates the more you compress/lower the suspension.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 06:22 PM
  #19  
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I kinda have a question as in add in (even tho its not my post), but do any of you guys have to roll the fenders if you slam the car? I remember having to do it on my civic and my WRX.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 05:56 AM
  #20  
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Sedan
Originally Posted by Nodnero
I kinda have a question as in add in (even tho its not my post), but do any of you guys have to roll the fenders if you slam the car? I remember having to do it on my civic and my WRX.
Not if you use the correct offsets.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 09:30 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Nodnero
I kinda have a question as in add in (even tho its not my post), but do any of you guys have to roll the fenders if you slam the car? I remember having to do it on my civic and my WRX.
For some reason I have no idea of what this is about. Roll what fenders? Slam meaning?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 09:40 AM
  #22  
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Sedan
Originally Posted by haze
For some reason I have no idea of what this is about. Roll what fenders? Slam meaning?
Slam is just another name for lowering the car.

Rolling the fenders is what is done when the wheels are too wide to fit under the fenders. The fenders are modified to be wider to accomodate the widers wheels/tires. If you use the correct wheel/tire combination with the correct offsets this is not an issue.
 
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