Just ordered my suspension. Should have it in 2-3weeks. I can't wait to get them on the car to see how it handles. I was going to go with the Tein Flex and EDFC but shiets starts to add up. This is an expensive hobby

My wife would kick my **** if she knew how much money I dropped on this biatch!

 

DON'T order the traction arms they will not get your toe back into spec the correct way, you need to buy SPC toe bolts they'll save you money too, there only $45

 

I agree..I havee the SPC toe cam bolts and TEIN BASICs and Kinetix rear camber arms and I am back to spec. $45.00 CHEAP!

 

Can you elaborate on why the Kinetix traction arm won't work right.

 

The traction arms replace the factory caster arms and as you adjust these arms they will adjust toe but they will also throw your caster out of spec which you dont want, So basically it going to throw off the rear suspension geometry under compression.

Toe must be adjusted from the factory location

 

Here's a cut and paste of mine from another thread.


Rear Toe:
Unlike the front toe adjustment system, as you dial out more and more rear negitive camber, you also move your rear toe settings in the WRONG direction, meaning less and less toe with more and more camber correction. This is why there is a tie in to correcting your rear camber with aftermarket camber arms and the requirement to also get aftermarket toe control fixes.

Rear toe arms/traction arms should not be used as a method to correct or effect rear toe, don’t worry I’ll get to what you SHOULD use to adjust rear toe latter. Toe arms or traction arms are actually the radius rod on these cars. These rods do not adjust toe. Due to their mounting point they cannot adjust toe WITHOUT affecting the caster of the rear spindle. The radius rod attaches to the spindle right on the pivot point between the upper and lower ball joints. It does not attach in front of the pivot point like some believe. Lengthening or shortening of this rod only changes the caster of the spindle because the rod is below the rear axle. So, lengthen the rod and the less caster you get.... Shorten it and you get more caster. Sure... some say that they have lengthened it and it adjusted toe. That is only because the caster has changed so much that the pivot point between upper and lower ball joints has been relocated..... due to the traction rod not being mounted perfectly centered between the upper and lower ball joints the entire rear geometry gets changed to the point that toe was affected. This is the WRONG way to adjust your toe. I would call this a static toe adjustment. This may work as long as your rear suspension never moves.

He’s a second opinion on why not to adjust rear toe with toe arms/traction arms, this is a cut and paste with the understanding that this person calls the radius rod a “rear trailing arm”.
“The rear trailing arms should not be adjustable in length as some companies are selling them as such. They are claiming this as a way to change the toe. While it does change toe statically...it is not the proper way to do so. Changing the length of this arm puts even more load on the rear hub....this results in "bump steer" or toes the rear wheel out during compression.” BJ Zacharias EVO350

Side note on the whole above topic of toe arms/traction arms. Two companies offer fixed arms that should be considered because they use spherical bushings in place of the oem suspension’s use of soft rubber bushings. 350EVO (they call them lower trailing arms) and Jic www.intensepower.com/jicmaretrrod.html

Rear Toe should be adjusted in the same spot where the oem factory system adjusts from, the rear lower link (as the service Manuel calls it). To get more toe adjustment out of the oem adjustment system, buy SPC’s toe cam bolts. They work by having a larger offset washer then the oem toe cam bolts.
http://iapdirect.com/item.asp?invid=785

 

I bought the kinetix as a complete kit. $610 for the front a arm/rear camber/traction arm. Would you recommend to just buy the spc toe bolts to use instead of the traction arm. BTW, where the heck do you get your set up installed for $100 and $50 alignments? I was quoted $325 for install at a local performance shop and the dealer charges $90 for alignment.

 

Look at the rear Kinetix traction arms like this, not installing them does mean one less poly bushing to maintain (keeping it greased so it won't make noise). Installing it and adjusted to match the length of the oem radius arm it does serve the purpose of reducing a point where you have a soft oem bushing flexs where you don't want it to. Just to say it, I vote for a part with a spirical bushing vs poly, Jic has one but $425 OUCH!

Since installing aftermarket alignment fixes, especially in the front will be labor intensive, that work will be extra on top of the normal amount paid to do the actual alignment adjustment's.

 

Where did you have yours installed? And I am sorry, but I lost you on your post.....too technical for me.

Do I just dump my traction arm and get the SPC toe bolts in its place?