Heh, well "fixed" is an overstatement. I've been using this 'fix' for a couple of months now but next week I plan on taking this bad boy apart. Sigh, every single car I've owned I had to take apart a door (to swap speakers mostly).

In my case it's not the motor I'm pretty sure - so it can only be the regular (or maybe I'll get lucky and it's just a lose bolt / need a reset).. On G's regulator is the track - there is no rubber track on which the window rolls as I learned from the dealer..

 

Finally got around to fixing the darn window yesterday. It did end up being the motor.. Nissan's regulator design actually looks pretty reliable to me so I'd say if your window doesn't work ~90% it's your window motor. Got a refurbished one with 1 year warranty for $100 shipped. Installation is pretty straight forward and there are videos online if you need

One more comment. Premium BOSE sound my a$$! After I took off the door panel first thing I saw was the 'high quality' speaker from BOSE. OMG it must me worth all of $5. So those had to go. Replaced the speakers with Infinity Kappa's while I was doing the window motor..

 

this just happened to my driverside and i cant beleive this fking worked thanks man!

 

Thank you thank you thank you! I had to go to work in like an hour and my window was jammed down like everyone else's. This worked 100%. Every time I slammed my door holding the window button up, my window inched up. From there you can help it out by grabbing the window up and pushing up on the window button

 

Same problem here. Could you please tell me how did you hotwire the motor?

Thank you very much.

 

I know it's months later but you take the door card off, locate the window motor plug (has six wires) and use the two large wires - blue and green

 

Problem may lie in the motor or switches. BOTH go bad in our cars. Switches you can test easy by simply using driver side which sounds like you already did so the problem is defiantly in motor.

There is a way you can repair the motor (if it's repairable). Sometimes you can just clean it up and it works again (brush surface). Other time you actually have to replace the brushes. Or you can buy a good working used one from me.

https://g35driver.com/forums/interio...or-repair.html

 

Another fix that worked (and amazed) me was the Hard Reset. We used 2 People, I sat in my car while my buddy disconnected the positive and negative terminals on my battery, Touched them together for 10 seconds, and then hooked the battery back up. Ill be damned if the back passenger window that hadn't moved in a week rolled right the F up like it was brand new!

Since then, Ive got the child lock on, and a death threat to any potentiarlmpassenger who even goes Near the window switch. As for now, my driver window and sunroof work fine, so as long as I can hold off in replacing the "Master Switch" (Which Ive been told by multiple sources is the ultimate problem, but it doesn't come cheap), Im good to go!

I never saw/tried the slamming the door wth the window button held up trick, but I wouldn't be surprised if something like that worked too. Anyways, Being the middle of winter, I know how relieved I was to get that sucker up, so hopefully this post will help a fellow G driver in need

 

That worked for G37s, the back left window wouldn't go down but it does now. The only issue is it seems to be dragging against something. I think it may have scratched my tint.

 

FYI, the passenger window motor is the most notorious issue I've had with this G35. I've had to swap out the motor three (3) times! I've gotten pretty good at it.

Every time it was the motor in my case. No rubber parts had to be swapped.

 

I tried this this and it works for me; however not a long term fix. I can get the window back up, but then if I put it down again it does the same thing, so I have to repeat the steps.

 

All passenger windows and door locks stopped working at the same time. That rules out bad motors. I have discovered a blue i guess its a fuse pack in the motor compartment. Its a 40a 30a 50a i am looking at it since the cover says wdw on the 40 amp spot. Does anyone know the part number for this.

 

Either your driver side or passenger side window button assembly harness is loose.

 

Looks like my left rear finally died in my '07 G35x.

I can hear a click, swapped switches as test and getting 12V power back there so apparently the motor.

What kind of a bear can I expect if motor doesn't operate at all removing this?

Looking at FSM it seems to assume motor is partially working to extract the regulator assembly.

How hard to replace the motor on regulator within the door if I can't extract it?

Thanks!

 

You need to remove some electronic stuff to do this so take off the battery negative before unplugging stuff.

First test the wiring harness at the motor, you can unplug it without having to remove anything important, take off the door finisher panel (usually a couple of cables that link to the lock and door release handle that are super easy to remove just pay attention to which is which, sometimes a speaker to unplug, sometimes a courtesy light as well as the door button harness), then remove the metal inner panel cover (it will have a flange with like a billion bolts around the perimeter) and the motor harness should be accessible. It's a 2 pin harness, voltage will be +12vdc with the window up and polarity will reverse to -12vdc for window down.

EDIT: You will need to plug the window door panel buttons back in to do this, it will pop out of the door panel, usually I just remove the panel finisher and inner metal panel, then plug the harness back in, put the battery back on and do the rest of the repair with everything energized. The car won't care if the motor itself is disconnected, only if the window buttons (has a little computer in it) is disconnected while energized.

I haven't done the V36 window motors but you can normally unbolt and replace just the motor without having to remove anything else. You need to support the window glass though so take some 3ft long strips of painters tape and go up and over the window frame so it's taped on both sides. Use enough tape that you have about 4-6" of total width supporting the glass.

Then it's normally just a matter of unbolting the 3-4 mounting screws that hold it to the door inner frame, from there it's a cable drive so you can swing it out enough to access the 3 or so torx (it's something like T25 on the V35 chassis) that are on the backside that holds the motor onto the actual gearbox/cable drum. This is the important part about why the motor is so easy to replace on these chassis, it's a cable drive system so once the motor is unbolted from the door frame you can just swing everything out to an accessible location, pay attention to the orientation of the motor so you don't clock it 90 degrees off. If you need to rotate the shaft of the window motor (it's a square drive just like a ratchet) then just plug the motor in, put the battery back on, then bump the button a couple times to spin it till it's the same orientation as the old motor.

Use a 1/4" socket with the torx bit, don't use a torx screwdriver because those screws are usually on there pretty damned tight plus there's more room with the torx bit in the socket (1/4" drive socket/ratchet works the best if you have it).

Once it's all back together (torque spec in the FSM is unlisted so just snug it up well). Then do the window recalibration steps which for the V36 are super easy, roll the window open with the first click of the switch (manual mode) then roll the window closed with the second click of the switch (automatic mode) and continue to hold the switch to the up position once it's fully closed for 3 full seconds (go a little longer to make sure). Then test the auto down/up and it should work.