I pretty sure that any dealership that is selling a used car will try and minimize the potential risk. However, if you sneak around the back of the dealership and ask a mechanic how many rear timing cover replacements they do, you'll likely draw a different conclusion. That being said,I'd simply make it a condition of sale. You can just tell them you won't buy it without it and they'll likely comply. It's only like a 1/2 hour of labor for them.

 

At this point when buying used as the codes will EVENTUALLY come, meaning it will happen, do I still look at lower milage Gs (50-80k) for the 14-17g price range and pay the 2Gs when it happens or look for a higher milagr (85-100k) but cheaper g (12-14gs) and get the gaskets replaces immediately. This would be my DD so I want to make sure what I'm getting myself into. I still wanna do mods to it too but nothing major.

Thanks. I just think these cars are too nice to give up because of a gasket but 2gs is hard for me to get in my situation atm.

 

Look, you can't say that the codes will eventually come up. Nobody can say that yet; there's just too little evidence to go on at this point. If you want absolute assurance, the only way you're going to get it is to buy a car that's already had the repair done. As far as buying low vs. high mileage, there's no telling either way. There are reports of cars with 40K miles experiencing the gasket failures, and cars over 200k without any failures, so paying more for a low mileage car will not bring you any more certainty. The whole point of presenting this info to new potential buyers such as yourself, is just to alert them to the possibility and let them consider doing a pre-sale oil pressure test so that they are at least not buying into a car that is already failing. Remember, the oil pressure symptoms are present before there are ever any other visible symptoms with the car. And yes, there was a report here of someone that purchased a used car and within a few hundred miles, discovered that the gaskets were bad. In that case, a simple test would have foretold the hidden issue.

 

So in other words, buy a g35 at whatever I can afford and I think is nice. Than immediately buy a oil pressure gauge and when I see it going downhill, get it checked out. And if I don't see it go downhill, ride it till it happens or im just apart of the lucky ones. Correct ?

 

NO, not quite.
More like, don't even buy a car that doesn't pass an OP test in the first place. Then YES, after you own one that did pass an OP test, just monitor your oil pressure from then on.

 

Makes sense. Do people usually perform the OP test themselves with a device they bought or just meet at a local mechanic shop to pay them just to do a quick OP test.

And for the OP, does it stay low consistently even if the car has not been running? For example, what if the seller put it new oil Everytime he meets a buyer so just in case he has to do a OP test, it passes (not sure how the OP is EXACTLY Checked, but yeah). In other words, is there any way the seller can hide the actual OP readings for say the first day than after its back to the regular low readings?

Btw, thanks for the info. It has helped me out a lot. Just reading that thread gave me a great idea about the codes. Aha on page 14 currently

 

I'm in a similar situation. Looking at 07-08 sedans, same mileage range, and I haven't found any info on this gasket issue. Anyone got some info or any links they'd like to share with me? I'm not sure what to search so that's half my problem I assume

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v36-2007-08/436179-cause-dreaded-p0011-p0021-codes-everyone-curious-about.html

Your new best friend

 

Again, I can't speak for what a seller will say or do, but if it were me, and I was selling one of these cars, I know I wouldn't trust just any stranger to wrench on my car before they purchased it; what if they broke something? No, most likely as a seller, I'd want any such testing to be done by a professional/reputable auto repair facility at the very least, and a dealership would sound even better.

As far as protecting yourself from a seller that is deliberately trying to make the OP seem artificially high by using heavy weight oil or additives, IDK, that's almost bordering on paranoia at that point, but I guess you could also pay for an oil change and supply oil of the correct spec. I'm pretty sure you'd be pissing off your seller at that point though.

If you do have an OP test done, just make sure whoever does it follows the factory guidelines for testing OP. Again, keep reading, that is all covered in those threads I posted earlier.

 

Here are some working links:

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ous-about.html

http://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coup...xperience.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...-pressure.html

 

Do you know if there are any youtube videos of this process being done? Just so I can get a better idea if my mechanic friend can do it or if I need to go to a shop.

 

Which process?
Testing the OP, or replacing an oil gallery gasket?

I guess it doesn't really matter though, I don't know of one for either, but then again, I've never looked. You can, however, look directly at the factory service manual and see what's involved.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2008/

 

To replace the oil gallery gasket. I'm reading your part of hi-jacking the code thread -_-. You lucky you got it under warranty haha. But what I'm concerned is.... Is this the BIGGEST Problem I am going to occur with? Is your G modded? I plan to just do some simple mods such as motordyne spacers, berk hks, a tuning, eventually maybe ark grip but idk.

I want this car to be able to run for at least 3 years. It will be my college transportation car. That is why I am only doing small simple mods and not gonig all out and wasting my money on a turbo -_- but... yeah. If this is going to be the one of the biggest problems that occurs beacuse of OEM parts or bad maintence, than I might still buy it and replace it at a mom and dad pop hopefully for $1000-1200 in labor

 

No, I'm 100% stock. Keep reading though, because you've got a lot more researching to do with your modding ideas. Hint: spacers were for DE motors

 

Do you have a build log here? And alright. Damn. I guess I'm going to just have to get it fixed when it happens .. -_- Do 350Zs have this problem alot too? Im guessing so since they are the same engine. Hint: Oops. Thanks