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New 5AT launch technique

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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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New 5AT launch technique

After reading this thread by https://g35driver.com/forums/drag/113004-drag-launch-technique.html "Proporio", the link article describes a automatic launch technique I had long forgotten about. I tried out the technique with my 5AT and it sure feels like the car comes off the line a bit stronger and with less of that sub 3000rpm bog. I'll have to try this technique the next time I'm out at the track.

The technique:

1) Foot on brake
2) Put the tranny into neutral
3) Blip the throttle to around 4000rpms or so, foot still on brake. You should feel the pedal get a bit softer and you can push the brake down a bit more. Do not hold the gas to 4000rpms, simply rev up the engine and release the gas.
4) Once the rpms fall below 1000rpms, put tranny back into gear
5) While your foot still on the brake, mash the fully and hold for nearly 1 second (no more) to bring up the rpms
6) Release brake with gas fully depressed.

This is not neutral drop. The technique supposedly allows you to build more stall at launch. it appeared to me that I was able to get an additional 200-300rpms more stall on my launch. I remember using this technique on my old 94 Z28, but it proved too effective and would roast the tires. With the G, the spin is far less severe.
 

Last edited by DaveB; Aug 25, 2006 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 04:42 PM
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From: ɐʍ 'ǝlʇʇɐǝs
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What allows the rpm increase? Just the ability to brake stronger?
 
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 04:43 PM
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I noticed that as well. But I wondered how that would affect the torque converter. I mean, those things have a set stall, period, right?
 
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 04:46 PM
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ah helps if I actually read.
If your car has power brakes, you could apply the brake-torquing technique even better. At the starting line, shift your auto gearbox into neutral and floor the brake pedal with your left foot. Rev the engine once and quickly get off the throttle. You will feel the brake pedal sink further to the floor. This greatly increases the braking force. Now shift back into gear. You will now be able to rev up the engine even higher against the torque converter.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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neutral drop, isn't that bad for a tranny. slamming it into gear at a high rpm has got to be doing some damage.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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It would be if this article was actually describing it. But it's not

Originally Posted by DHCrocks
neutral drop, isn't that bad for a tranny. slamming it into gear at a high rpm has got to be doing some damage.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
What allows the rpm increase? Just the ability to brake stronger?
Yes. Removing the vacuum from the brakes greatly increase the grab of the brakes and it allows more engine torque to be placed on the TC. At least that's how I understand it.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
I noticed that as well. But I wondered how that would affect the torque converter. I mean, those things have a set stall, period, right?
Stall is set in that with the G35, the stock stall is around 2800rpms. However, if the car has more the stock powerm then the stall rpm will theoretically be higher because the additional power will push the TC harder. However most of the NA mods we add to these cars do little to help sub 3,000rpm power so the stall speed will stay close to stock.

With that said, I've never been able to see 2,800rpms with my TC. The brakes simply don't have the strentgh to hold and I'm a firm believer that torque braking more than one second generates too much heat in the tranny and often times will make the car slower on launch. The torque brake method I use to pretty quick and I usually see 2200-2400rpm on launch. With this new method, I seem to be seeing 2400-2600rpm.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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Good info Dave, I read that article too, and I assume...below, where you say, in step 5, to "mash the fully" you meant to say "mash the Gas fullly?"

The technique:

1) Foot on brake
2) Put the tranny into neutral
3) Blip the throttle to around 4000rpms or so, foot still on brake. You should feel the pedal get a bit softer and you can push the brake down a bit more.
4) Put tranny back into gear
5) While your foot is on the brake, mash the fully and hold for nealry 1 second.
6) Release brake
 
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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Yes, go full throttle. I'd like to hear your experience with this technique.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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got to try this one.. sounds good
 
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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ive done this technique before with my firebird and let me tell you, it totally screwed up my tranny, me personally i would not do this technique from experience i have avoided it....my $0.02
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Fassster10
ive done this technique before with my firebird and let me tell you, it totally screwed up my tranny, me personally i would not do this technique from experience i have avoided it....my $0.02
I must ask why because even the Nissan FSM states that holding the brakes and full throttle for no more than 3 seconds is okay and it's the way Nissan techs test to see that the stall rpm is correct. Regardless, this is only something I'd do at the track and like I've said before, I don't hold the gas and brake down for anymore than 1 second. Maybe you're thinking this technique is a neutral drop or something along those lines All this technique does is allow you to generate a bit more bite in the brakes.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 01:48 AM
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I think he's refering to going from neutral to D/M even with the brake.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 01:53 AM
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Might I add that I'm also still wearry about using the N-to-D tactic in this as well. Even with the brakes engaged.
 
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