VDC , SLIP , BRAKE light on - brake fuse blows
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VDC , SLIP , BRAKE light on - brake fuse blows
OK, OK, I know... I have searched. My story is a little different...
2003 5AT
My VDC , SLIP , BRAKE light on
So the usual culprits are;
- brake fluid level low
- brake pads low
- brake switch (intercontroler?)
- throttle body
- ABS system?
HOWEVER, my brake fuse is blown, which causes these lights to come on, and keeps blowing when I replace it.
It started when I parked the car (park brake on). When I came back and restarted, as soon as I hit the brake to change out of Park, the VDC , SLIP , BRAKE lights came on, and the Shift lock would not disengage.
Turns out the brake fuse is blown. Replacing this resets everything back to normal, but then it blows again within a short amount of time - either when I touch the brake pedal, or after a few minutes (seems like it happens when holding down the brake pedal).
I even got it to blow when the ignition was OFF (key out of ignition), and I just touched the brakes.
One problem: I have installed new speakers and amps and of course the dealer is telling me it is related. However, I have had the stereo running for a week without any problems, and it still runs just fine even when the brake fuse blows.
Even with the stereo disconnected, same problem.
I checked the brake lights - they seem to come on normally (until they blow).
One reverse light is out - I removed the globe (did not appear to be blown). With the globe out, it still blows the brake fuse. All other lights appear to be operating normally.
Any ideas on what things could cause the brake fuse to blow (even with ignition OFF)? Any known issues?
2003 5AT
My VDC , SLIP , BRAKE light on
So the usual culprits are;
- brake fluid level low
- brake pads low
- brake switch (intercontroler?)
- throttle body
- ABS system?
HOWEVER, my brake fuse is blown, which causes these lights to come on, and keeps blowing when I replace it.
It started when I parked the car (park brake on). When I came back and restarted, as soon as I hit the brake to change out of Park, the VDC , SLIP , BRAKE lights came on, and the Shift lock would not disengage.
Turns out the brake fuse is blown. Replacing this resets everything back to normal, but then it blows again within a short amount of time - either when I touch the brake pedal, or after a few minutes (seems like it happens when holding down the brake pedal).
I even got it to blow when the ignition was OFF (key out of ignition), and I just touched the brakes.
One problem: I have installed new speakers and amps and of course the dealer is telling me it is related. However, I have had the stereo running for a week without any problems, and it still runs just fine even when the brake fuse blows.
Even with the stereo disconnected, same problem.
I checked the brake lights - they seem to come on normally (until they blow).
One reverse light is out - I removed the globe (did not appear to be blown). With the globe out, it still blows the brake fuse. All other lights appear to be operating normally.
Any ideas on what things could cause the brake fuse to blow (even with ignition OFF)? Any known issues?
There is a short to ground somewhere.
Do you have a wing? Check the wire on there, mine shorted out and caused the same problem. I put a fuse on it until I take it off to find the location. That way if it blows I only loose my wing light and not all the brake lights.
Do you have a wing? Check the wire on there, mine shorted out and caused the same problem. I put a fuse on it until I take it off to find the location. That way if it blows I only loose my wing light and not all the brake lights.
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I did as much troubleshooting as I could - took it to the dealer... hopefully it is a warranty-related issue 
Another thought:
About a year ago, I dyna-matted my trunk and sprayed expanding foam into my trunk lid. But this was a year ago, and the light has been fine up to now....
Also, last weekend I was getting really pissed at a rattle in the rear parcel shelf, so sprayed a bunch of expanding foam into the parcel shelf cavities - includng one section that has wiring (to the rear deck brake light?).
(turns out the rattle is the middle seat-belt retaier device - internal mechanism that cannot be fixed....argggg)
Do you think the foam could have caused any problems with wiring/grounding issues?
Having said that.... the foam had cured for 4-5 days before this fuse-blowing started.
Another thought:
About a year ago, I dyna-matted my trunk and sprayed expanding foam into my trunk lid. But this was a year ago, and the light has been fine up to now....
Also, last weekend I was getting really pissed at a rattle in the rear parcel shelf, so sprayed a bunch of expanding foam into the parcel shelf cavities - includng one section that has wiring (to the rear deck brake light?).
(turns out the rattle is the middle seat-belt retaier device - internal mechanism that cannot be fixed....argggg)
Do you think the foam could have caused any problems with wiring/grounding issues?
Having said that.... the foam had cured for 4-5 days before this fuse-blowing started.
Last edited by andycon; Mar 23, 2007 at 11:37 AM. Reason: revision
brake
run a hot wire from your third brake light to the back brake lights, run another ground up to your brake from the trunk. for the rev. light jump it from the good one to the burn out one. Same **** happened to me but dealer wont do **** about it. Let me know if you still have trouble.
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Warning when using expanding foam !!!
Holy crap... I found the problem...
A wiring harness goes to the trunk (reverse lights and spoiler light), it goes thru a rubber grommet between the body and the trunk lid.
Well... about a year ago, I dynamatted the trunk and sprayed expanding foam into the trunk lid. Apparently the foam made its way into the rubber grommet and all along the rubber hose connector. This solidified and stopped a flexible join from being flexible. It caused the wires to break!
So WARNING.... if you are using the expanding foam to fill in gaps and stop rattles... be aware....
A wiring harness goes to the trunk (reverse lights and spoiler light), it goes thru a rubber grommet between the body and the trunk lid.
Well... about a year ago, I dynamatted the trunk and sprayed expanding foam into the trunk lid. Apparently the foam made its way into the rubber grommet and all along the rubber hose connector. This solidified and stopped a flexible join from being flexible. It caused the wires to break!
So WARNING.... if you are using the expanding foam to fill in gaps and stop rattles... be aware....
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Hey I just had the same issue. All three lights came on. It had a blown stop lamp fuse. I replaced the fuse and it popped it again right when i hit the brake pedal. So after reading some on here I went right to the brake light in the wing. I unplugged it and replaced the fuse. Good news that was the problem. I then used a power probe to test all the wires. It was broke in the long rubber grommet that goes from the body to the trunk. It's working perfect now. Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2006
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Hey I just had the same issue. All three lights came on. It had a blown stop lamp fuse. I replaced the fuse and it popped it again right when i hit the brake pedal. So after reading some on here I went right to the brake light in the wing. I unplugged it and replaced the fuse. Good news that was the problem. I then used a power probe to test all the wires. It was broke in the long rubber grommet that goes from the body to the trunk. It's working perfect now. Thanks