Just finished replacing the stock suspension on a '03 5AT stock suspension (springs and shocks) with performance coupe set. (no spring compressor needed). Took me ~3-4hrs front and back.

I benefitted from info on this forum, but I also see the need for an updated/consolidated DIY, so I took the liberty of stealing from others and cutting and pasting...

Thanks to GSedan35 and drsifu1 for their previous threads...

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Torque spec on tire lugnuts: 80ft/lb.

Tools needed:
factory jack
floor jack
1/2" ratchet (3/8")
misc 1/2" extensions (3/8")
17mm socket
12mm socket
19mm socket
17mm box end wrench
power tool is VERY helpful in removing front strut from spring
6-12" breaker bar - helps a lot to have an extension to the socket to break these nuts loose
torque wrench (if you are as paranoid as I am)
(spring compressor) - optional

Rear suspension

Jack up car, and use stands. Remove wheel and tire. Now place floor jack below the rear lower link that the coil spring is located in and use the jack to hold the spring in place, raising it up a 1/8" or so. Refer to the picture I have provided and remove the nut and bolt to the rear lower link (blue arrow). Remove bolt from bottom of strut mount (red arrow). Picture is from above looking down.
Vinh's NOTE: There is NO need to remove the bolt depicted in red if you are only installing springs.

PIC 1
http://pics.montypics.com/Gcoupe35/2..._how_to1_1.jpg

Work out bolt, it will come out without damaging the threads. (helps to jack up/down to get the right spot for the bolt to come out) Now slowly lower the rear lower link, watch the floor jack to see when this suspension part stops going down, make sure the floor jack keeps on touching it.

To get the coil spring out. Loosen the nut in the green arrow, NOT the bolt. The bolt is fixed. It does NOT need to be removed. (On this nut, you will see a thick washer, notice that this washer has a round dot stamped into it. Use a sharpy pen and mark this dot's location, you will align the suspension to this dot as the last thing you do on reassembly. Break nut free with about 3 turn's of your ratchet, but no more.) Once it is loose, you should be able to lower the floor jack and remove the rear spring.

PIC 2
http://www.montypics.com/pic.php?url..._how_to1_2.jpg

Install in reverse order. HINT #1: Use your floor jack to raise parts up to match up various bolt holes. Repeat process on other side of rear suspension. Hint #2: Compared to the OEM spring, the upper part of the new spring is not flush. Hint #3: Just ensure the spring is properly seated in the bottom of the suspension member. Hint #4: You WILL NEED to bang things around because everything fits snugly, ie. the rear lower link connection to the "wheel?" Hint #5: Here are the torque specs for the bolts involved:

1) Bolt depicted in blue: 48-59 ft/lb
2) Bolt depicted in green: 48-59 ft/lb
3) ONLY for those removing the strut, bolt in red: 74-88 ft/lb


FRONT:

Unbolt the 3 12mm upper strut mount bolts from under the hood, set them aside as to NOT misplace them.
Unbolt the 12mm bolt holding the brake line on the strut, set nut aside and pull brake line off the strut. Look at pic with red arrow for brake line location.

PIC 3
http://pics.montypics.com/Gcoupe35/2...ll_how_to3.jpg

Remove the speed sensor line from the strut in the 2 places it attaches to the strut via compression fittings (just pull)(blue arrow) Remove the nut and bolt from the bottom of the strut(red arrow) It will come out - Use floor jack to line things up and wriggle/unscrew it out.
Detach the end link: I found that Removing the nut from the sway bar and popping the end link out was easiest. This was easier for me since I had done the sway install a few weeks ago - I used the jack to support the suspension then wriggled the end link out.

PIC 4
http://pics.montypics.com/Gcoupe35/2...ll_how_to4.jpg

Ignore this bit about the spring compressor if you want to do it without...
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Now you get to use the spring compressor. Your goal will be to compress enough of the spring so that you can remove the sway bar end link bolt (hard work, need to bang it out). Once your able to do that you should have enough clearance to be able to remove the whole spring/strut/spring compressor assembly. NOTE BE CAREFUL, watch out for the speed sensor line, DO NOT tear it appart. Trying to make space to remove this assembly is gonna give you a headache. Keep perservering. I've seen people put the factory jack between their fender and the upper link to create more space. I did this and slightly dented the inside of the fender (not noticeable because the fender lining covers it up.
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Thanks to notes from GSedan35, here's the way to do it without spring compressor;

Locate upper arm, where it bolts to the suspension upright (ball joint) you will find a nut that has a cotter pin, remove pin (I managed to reuse it as a temporary measure), make a note now to get yourself a 3/32" by 1" long brass cotter pin to use in it's place).

With cottor pin removed, loosen nut a small amount. If you see a gap between the nut and the upper suspension arm, the ball joint is stuck in the suspension upright, no big deal it happen's all the time to me. If it's stuck, simply use a rubber mallet and tap on the suspension upright and it should pop free. Be carefull when you remove the nut, the main part's of the suspension will flop free rather suddenly, nothing will be damaged, but you might appreciate the surprise. Set nut aside.
(I had a problem with the ball joint rotating when I tried to undo the nut - just lower the suspension a bit and the weight will tighten the ball joint and allow you to undo the nut - keep a hand on the lower suspension member as it will swing out when the nut releases. I also put the jack slight under the suspension so it wouldn't drop suddenly)

PIC 5
http://pics.montypics.com/Gcoupe35/2...ll_how_to5.jpg

If only installing springs, you'll need to remove the center bolt located on the strut/spring assembly. This is where having a power tool helps. I didn't try removing the bold with hand tools. BE CAREFUL. This is where the spring can shoot out.
Install your new springs ensuring everything sits properly. There are grooves in the rubber upper seat that should match up with the spring. Ensure everything is lined up. Push down on the mounting insulator and install the center bolt. Tighten as much as possible. You should tighten this bolt later after the assembly is installed and the car is lowered.

Install everything back in the reverse order. (piece of cake when you undo the top suspension member as explained above)

HINT #1: Be Patient. (...the jack is the key, use it to align things for both removal and for install).
HINT #2: The bump stops (the rubber cushions that fit around the top of each spring) on the front of the OEM springs should be taken off and placed on the new springs.
HINT #3: Again, use your factory jack to line up parts with bolts.
HINT #4: Torque Spec for bolts:

1)3 12 mm upper strut mount bolts: 26-30 ft/lb
2)12 mm bolt for brake line: Can't find, but probably 10 ft/lb
3)Bolt from bottom of strut (Pic 4 red arrow): 52-62 ft/lb
4)Bolt connect sway bar end link to suspension arm (Pic 4 green arrow): 59-70 ft/lb
5)Center bolt of strut/spring assembly: 40-47 ft/lb

I hope this helps someone as much as it helped me.
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