newest G35 install done :) pics
#17
Originally Posted by spirogyro
I like what you've done in the trunk, but I'm really not liking the fact that you put the tweets and mids under the dash. IMO, highs don't travel as far as lows do. They can also be blocked easily. I would have mounted them elsewhere where they are directly pointed to the people in the car. That would of been more balanced.
I'm looking to do the same install once I have my components compiled. Best of which, I won't completely lose my dead pedal in sacrifice for sound.
Ken (Kaneda)
#19
What, if anything, did you do for rear fill? I have been debating if I want to use the rear locations (Blose system) or not. I'm leaning toward not. I already have some decent components (Diamond Audio M561 - old, but great sounding IMO) and don't know if I want to try to match another model (the M5 series is discontinued) or if I should start from scratch.
How much airspace and mounting depth does that box allow? Did you leave the rear stock "subwoofer" holes open, or did you seal them up to help prevent standing/cancelling waves? How did you cool the amp? Do the passive xovers need cooling?
How much airspace and mounting depth does that box allow? Did you leave the rear stock "subwoofer" holes open, or did you seal them up to help prevent standing/cancelling waves? How did you cool the amp? Do the passive xovers need cooling?
#20
no rear fill, in a car like the g coupe, i think its worthless to have rear fill, infact, i dont do rear fill in most of my sound quality installs
air space gives .4 cub feet each, the box extends to belowt he amps as well
no cooling needed on the amp, from experience, dls amps rarely, if ever, overheat. crossovers dont require much cooling at all either...in my years i ahve yet to have a passive fail on me from too much heat
the rear deck 6x9s remained simply beucaes my bad back didnt allow me to take it out, but it sounded fine with them in there
Bing
air space gives .4 cub feet each, the box extends to belowt he amps as well
no cooling needed on the amp, from experience, dls amps rarely, if ever, overheat. crossovers dont require much cooling at all either...in my years i ahve yet to have a passive fail on me from too much heat
the rear deck 6x9s remained simply beucaes my bad back didnt allow me to take it out, but it sounded fine with them in there
Bing
#21
Nice. I think you have me convinced on the benefits of the partial enclosure for the mids, I'm going to give it a try. Thank you for the info.
I was also thinking of running new speaker wire (I'm currently using the fac. wire). In your opinion are you likely to gain much in sound quality? If so, would you mind giving me a tip on running the wire into the doors. I started to do it when I installed the fronts (MBQuartz), but after everthing else I didn't have the time/patience as it seemed like it was going to be a huge PinTA.
By the way, what's your location? I might want to have my system improved by a pro
Thanks.
I was also thinking of running new speaker wire (I'm currently using the fac. wire). In your opinion are you likely to gain much in sound quality? If so, would you mind giving me a tip on running the wire into the doors. I started to do it when I installed the fronts (MBQuartz), but after everthing else I didn't have the time/patience as it seemed like it was going to be a huge PinTA.
By the way, what's your location? I might want to have my system improved by a pro
Thanks.
#22
i am in san jose, CA
as for wiring into the door, by rule of thumb, if i can get a new set of speaker wires into the doors, i would. from past experience, i have had some issues, related to noise, when i have utilized the stockwiring...so...can i promise you that it will sound better with new wiring? not neccessarily, but its peace of mind for me.
as for running new wires, its hard to describe, but basically you need to unlatch the plug, drill out each side, and go from there...i would go to www.my350z.com and do a search of running wires into the doors, its essentially the same install
Bing
as for wiring into the door, by rule of thumb, if i can get a new set of speaker wires into the doors, i would. from past experience, i have had some issues, related to noise, when i have utilized the stockwiring...so...can i promise you that it will sound better with new wiring? not neccessarily, but its peace of mind for me.
as for running new wires, its hard to describe, but basically you need to unlatch the plug, drill out each side, and go from there...i would go to www.my350z.com and do a search of running wires into the doors, its essentially the same install
Bing
#23
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
as for running new wires, its hard to describe, but basically you need to unlatch the plug, drill out each side, and go from there...i would go to www.my350z.com and do a search of running wires into the doors, its essentially the same install
Bing
Bing
#25
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
kicks panels, IMO, would be the best place for mid range and highs in most cars, the whole thing about blocking,a nd pointing away is honestly, a misconception.
Nice work in many ways - but the OEM kick is not my preferred location either. I personally would rather have UP6 with the tweeter high than this setup, with better frequency response but coming from all down low.
I've heard the DLS Iridium 6.3 in an IASCA-winning car, with mids and tweets in narrow, angled kicks, and the 6's in the door. I wouldn't turn by back on that car's results by saying that the angling doesn't matter.
#26
San Jose. I'm in San Diego. Think I can make it up there to drop off my car tom. a.m.? (And see how many tickets I get). Your probably a little to far, but thank you for your help. And thanks to Sunset Z.
I'm going to pop the panels off to sound damp the doors and redo my mounts so I'll do the wiring as well.
Thanks again.
I'm going to pop the panels off to sound damp the doors and redo my mounts so I'll do the wiring as well.
Thanks again.
#27
#28
you mean 3k for the entire thing? no thats a bit off, since hte spaekers is close to 1k in price, the amp is nto cheap either
if you are talking about labor, well it dpends on if you go to a high end shop, if you do, that price may not be far off, prolly a little lower..
but through someone like me who does this with out a full blown shop front, all te labor cost comes to about low 1k range...
b
if you are talking about labor, well it dpends on if you go to a high end shop, if you do, that price may not be far off, prolly a little lower..
but through someone like me who does this with out a full blown shop front, all te labor cost comes to about low 1k range...
b
#29
#30