Nah, I don't need to go through that. This thread has been jacked enough.

 

As I said before an extra battery is the key.
If you need them some of my credentials are:
15yrs in the 12V industry
Built high profile demo vehicles for Boston Acoustic, Pioneer, Eclipse, Crossfire etc..
I worked at Crossfire Car Audio for 6yrs where I was the Product and Marketing Manager.
I now manage the Audio and Accessory division for Scosche Industries.

While at Crossfire I developed the amplifier and speaker line, among other responsibilities. We noticed that 90% of class-d amp failures could be attributed to voltage starvation. As voltage drops the amp works harder to put out the same power. Eventually the power supply section fails.
Capacitors do very little to help this situation, they help stabilize voltage for transient peaks in music but not for the sustained current draw of a typical 1000W+ class-d amp.
An extra battery goes a LONG way in helping your system. Yes in the perfect world you should upgrade you alternator and add a secondary battery but I know that is cost prohibative. Do yourself a favor and add a second battery. You'll immediatly notice a difference. As I said before the second battery doesn't need to be isolated because you shouldn't be playing the system at high levels with the car off anyway (for the voltage reasons I explained above). Be sure to fuse between the batteries TWICE. Once within 18 inches of the front battery and then again within 18" of the back battery; this doesn't include the fusing for your amplifier.

I hope this help make your decision...


Chris

 

well just to follow up. I upgraded the chasis ground from the neg terminal as well as all the 4 gauge wire that could be upgraded to 0 gauge. Dropped in a yellow top and had my system tuned at the local stereo shop....


and guess what it still does the exact same stuff

i don't know what more i can do aside from getting a new alternator or scrapping my amps and getting one super cool 5 channel amp.

 

You dropped in a yellow top, meaning you added a yellow top in addition to the stock battery? Or did you replace the stock battery with a yellow top?

 

sorry I took the quick reply literally.

I replaced the stock battery with the yellow top. From the advice that the installer gave he said that it would add to the strain in the system to run two batteries. I took his professional input and tried it the way he thought best and it still isn't a total improvement. a bit better but i still get dimming lights and can feel the bass in the throttle when i drive like a slight stutter.

 

I'm sorry to dissagree with the professional installer, but you need to add a second battery. I think my credentials (stated above) should indicate that I know a bit more than the average installer. Sorry but I'm just trying to help.

 

For the record, I'm currently building my G35 to be a demo vehicle for Scosche. I will be using 2 batteries on the stock alternator. My former vehicle was an Xterra with 2 batteries on the stock alternator. Here are pictures of the Xterra system build www.cmcworld.net

 

Rather than using a second battery, would a high current power cell aka "cap killer" work as well? I would rather have the versatility of mounting it wherever i can squeeze it into the trunk... thanks!!