I'll try that out tomorrow. Thanks. And thanks to everyone else who posted with ideas and suggestions, its really appreciated.

We'll see what happens tomorrow when I take my amp outta the equation and when I get my results from the load test.

 

OK guys, I figured it out. First I tried taking the power wire for my amp off the battery... The car still died after I took it off. OK, so I moved on to reinstalling all the wires so I could take it down to Autozone for a load test. I disconnected the positive battery terminal wire and got all my pieces back in order. Once I was done with that, the car started fine. So I tried it a few more times and the car started and stayed started everytime.

So all I had to do was take the positive wire off the battery. This made sense b/c when I installed my amp, I only disconnected the negative terminal.... Well, all is good now! Thanks again guys for all the help.

 

is it all possible on the 6 speed manuals the clutch switches are garbage that is why on start up is hesitant some times

 

What would be the difference in removing the positive terminal versus the negative terminal?

 

Don't know... But removing one vs. the other produced results. If only for a few days...

 

that's interesting. Let us know if you figure out why.

 

I'll keep you guys posted. I'll have my dealer look at it and I'll see what they come up with.

 

Today I went down to Autozone for a load test and the machine simply said I have a "bad" battery. The Autozone Tech went on to explain all this business about batteries and alternators. He said my sound system is drawing all sorts of crazy power from the battery (I have one amp that is 250w RMS, not big at all). I didn't pay too much attention to what he was saying because he kept going on about my computer failing and all sorts of tangents.

But he did mention something I will look into. There is a shop close to my house that deals with alternators. The shop can "rewind" the alternator so it puts out more amps or install a new bigger one based on the electrical demands of my car. Once I get the rest of my sounds system installed I'm gonna head down there and see what they can do. The Autozone guy said he paid a very reasonable price for this work. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Well, I finally got the problem solved once and for all. Today I went down to Riverside Infiniti for problems I was having not related to my car dying. After the SA checked my car out, he came back and asked if I knew that my car died after start up. I told I was aware of this and I said it was battery related. I told him not to worry about it. He went ahead and wrote it up on the list of things I came in for anyway.

About 30 mins later he comes and tells me I need a new door master switch which he ordered for me. He also tells me he fixed my engine dying problem. It wasn't battery-related at all. It turns out their techs found "INTERNAL FAILURE OF THROTT LE CHAMBER." They replaced it and performed an "IDLE VOLUME RE-LEAR."

I love warranties. Left the dealer without spending 1 dollar. Anyway, my car now starts up and stays running just like it should. I also noticed when I take my car out of gear as I'm driving, my RPM no longer fall below idle and then bounce back.

 

Same situation with me. . .just installed a new head unit and had my battery disconnected for a few hours during the install. It started up right away at first but after I went out for dinner with the wife, it would drop to 400 RPMs at start and then die. I'll try the idle volume reset and probably clean my throttle body. . .subscribing for reference. Thanks!