Nothing works. When Grant(Gdup35sedan) and I wired my car for the 10W6V2 and 500/1, after we were done, the four rear speakers did not work and they still dont. The rear 6x9's and the two speakers in the arm rests of the backseat do not work. Did we wire something wrong? Hopefully this can be easily taken care of...but how?

Also, I connected all the wires to the sub and the amp and such but it did not work. The amp comes on when the car turns on but the sub does not work, a.k.a. there is no output. Maybe a minute after the amp's "Power" light comes on, it shuts off.

What am I doing wrong? We followed dR6's DIY guide to the T but we obviously had a different outcome then his.

Any suggestions would be great! Thank you!

 

is the remote line connected and getting power?

 

^ That would be my first guess as well. VSM indicates a color code of "SB" for the remote turn-on. Not sure what the "SB" is. Recommend you use a multimeter to diagnose.

 

SB is probably slate(grey)- blue

 

SB = sky blue

 

any updates?

 

Yes in fact I do have an update. Kurtis(K67P67) really helped me out a lot. Thanks again Kurtis. Turns out the speaker wires that I spliced, I never reconnected the rear wires to the wires I spliced. I easily fixed that and went on to wire the remote wire and that solved my problem

My only issue now is that the sub does not hit as hard as I thought it would, guess it just needs some fine-tuning. Thanks for everyones help and thanks again Kurtis

 

I know what you mean about the 10w6. It's hyped up a lot so some think it's going to shake houses, I was one of them. You have to remember that it's still only one 10" and it hits pretty hard considering that.

 

Im glad I went with the W6 over the W3 because the way the W6 sounds, I thought that the W3 would sound this way. Maybe Ill take it by an audio shop and have em listen to it and tell me if it sounds right.

 

Glad to be of help Andrew. May need some tweaking but you're going to be happy with the new JL gear.

 

To be honest, Im very unhappy with the JL gear. My expectations were much higher than the outcome, but maybe thats my problem. Or perhaps, something went wrong during the installation that is causing me to have the issues Im having.

Now, I dont have much knowledge, if any, about car audio and systems but here's a couple problems Im still having..

1. Sub is not hitting hard enough and hits harder with some songs than others. Some songs it hits fairly well, others its like its not even there.

2. The JL bass **** does not work. It doesnt matter if its turned all the way one way or the other, its the same output. When I unplug it, the output from the sub doesnt change

3. The sub rattles when it hits. The only way to prevent it from making the rattling noise is to turn the input sensitivity on the amp almost all the way down. Im not sure if the "rattling" is normal or if it is a sign of distortion but either way, I dont like it. Thankfully it cant be heard unless you open the trunk and stand behind the car.

I might just take the car to an install shop and tell em to rip it apart and do it over for me again. So far, this has been $1100 not happily spent.

 

im feeling the same way as you...my friend has almost the same setup in his scion tc as mine and it hits so much harder...he says he dynomatted the trunk and has a different headunit...i talked to the shop that installed mine and they said that if i swap out the headunit our subs will hit much harder? can somebody confirm this? i dont want to shell 300 for the double din kit plus more for the headunit and not notice much of a difference

 

PM sent

 

1.) sounds like a crossover problem to me. I'm guessing those songs where it "hits" are on the upper end of the spectrum? This particular amp has a LP filter with cutoff between 40-200Hz. First glance, i'd say you have it too low, as i don't see a HP filter on this unit.

2). However, your bass **** not working might give another clue. Manual says it doesn't work unless you're in low pass mode. So it sounds as if you've defeated the filter and are running in full range mode.

1+2 together makes me wonder if you're filtering solely from the HU, and just amping the signal. That would explain the bass **** not working, and the fact that some songs don't "boom". The HU probably has a HP filter to cut off the very low freqs to the rear speakers. I don't know what head unit you're using but check if it has a sub output. If you're using stock, there's a few tutorials on here that talk about the wacky filtering done in the system, and how to get around it. I'm no expert on that. If the stock unit did have filtering before your amp, then your LP filter would have no effect, as there's nothing for it to filter after the HU took it out, and the bass **** would have nothing to amplify, again if that freq range was removed.

3) What rattles? The sub itself? Could be your box construction not being as rigid as it should be, sub not mounted securely, or wires in the box hitting the sub basket and/or cone. Try pressing around on things and see what quiets the rattle. If something works, there you go. Also could try taping up your wires in the box, or if your box is on the small side, add some polyfill to boom it up a bit, and keep the wires from knocking.

For the guy asking about the HU swap, see the above about the filtering. That really sounds as if it could be the problem.

Then again, I could be wrong

 

Ok, seems like I got it hitting harder. I took Kurtis's advice(again) and ditched the Hi-Low converter and just hacked up some RCA cable and spliced into the rear speaker wires with those.

The bass **** still seems to have no effect though for some reason and my sub is still rattling. It seems that the rattling is coming from the cone itself. I doubt the rattling is from the box since its a 4080 fiberglass box and many users on here are using my exact setup with no issues. I highly doubt the rattling is the wires because the rattling increases with the volume. I only used 4 or 5 screws when I secured the sub to the box, is that not enough? The sub seems pretty solid in the box so I doubt that is the issue...

Any help is greatly appreciated.