how's this audio setup?
#1
04-21-2007, 03:14 AM
how's this audio setup?
I have no knowledge in car audio so bare with me. Just a sub and an amp and going to upgrade my bose speakers in the far future.
I got some questions.
1. Which is better? 2ohm vs. 4ohm and what do they do?
2. 10" Alpine Type R 1042d. Is this a good sub and will it fit into the 4080 enclosure?
3. I am not sure which amp to get for the full use of the sub. How's Alpine mono power amplifier MRP-M650?
4. Since I will be getting only 1 sub, do I just need 1 amp as well? Or do I also need to upgrade the stock amps?
5. Should I use the stock headunit to control the bass or would it be better to get a separate bass controller (DLS remote controller)? If getting separate bass controller is better, where can I get the DLS remote controller?
6. Is there anything else that I should be getting? such as dynomat, capacitator? I'm not quite sure what I will be needing. Are these necessary?
7. I heard there are bad quality wires and good quality wires. What brand should I get and what to get?
That is all the questions I have for now. I am just looking for the bass that's better than stock with crystal sound.
How much do you think these equipment will cost? Excluding installation/labor?
is there other subs/amps that i should be considering?
TIA!
I got some questions.
1. Which is better? 2ohm vs. 4ohm and what do they do?
2. 10" Alpine Type R 1042d. Is this a good sub and will it fit into the 4080 enclosure?
3. I am not sure which amp to get for the full use of the sub. How's Alpine mono power amplifier MRP-M650?
4. Since I will be getting only 1 sub, do I just need 1 amp as well? Or do I also need to upgrade the stock amps?
5. Should I use the stock headunit to control the bass or would it be better to get a separate bass controller (DLS remote controller)? If getting separate bass controller is better, where can I get the DLS remote controller?
6. Is there anything else that I should be getting? such as dynomat, capacitator? I'm not quite sure what I will be needing. Are these necessary?
7. I heard there are bad quality wires and good quality wires. What brand should I get and what to get?
That is all the questions I have for now. I am just looking for the bass that's better than stock with crystal sound.
How much do you think these equipment will cost? Excluding installation/labor?
is there other subs/amps that i should be considering?
TIA!
#2
04-24-2007, 02:12 AM
#3
04-24-2007, 03:17 AM
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#4
04-24-2007, 04:04 AM
i got the 4080 at www.4080enclosures.com
http://www.4080enclosures.com/shop40...sp?idProduct=1
$333 shipped
im also a noob on car audio but the audio installer is an audio freak so he gave me some tips on what to get..
he lives in Valley Stream and works at Street Smarts in Bellmore.
if u need to get urs installed, let me know if u want to get urs installed by him. he knows what he's doing when it comes to audio
http://www.4080enclosures.com/shop40...sp?idProduct=1
$333 shipped
im also a noob on car audio but the audio installer is an audio freak so he gave me some tips on what to get..
he lives in Valley Stream and works at Street Smarts in Bellmore.
if u need to get urs installed, let me know if u want to get urs installed by him. he knows what he's doing when it comes to audio
#5
04-24-2007, 11:07 AM
Originally Posted by mx22o
I have no knowledge in car audio so bare with me. Just a sub and an amp and going to upgrade my bose speakers in the far future.
I got some questions.
1. Which is better? 2ohm vs. 4ohm and what do they do?
2. 10" Alpine Type R 1042d. Is this a good sub and will it fit into the 4080 enclosure?
3. I am not sure which amp to get for the full use of the sub. How's Alpine mono power amplifier MRP-M650?
4. Since I will be getting only 1 sub, do I just need 1 amp as well? Or do I also need to upgrade the stock amps?
5. Should I use the stock headunit to control the bass or would it be better to get a separate bass controller (DLS remote controller)? If getting separate bass controller is better, where can I get the DLS remote controller?
6. Is there anything else that I should be getting? such as dynomat, capacitator? I'm not quite sure what I will be needing. Are these necessary?
7. I heard there are bad quality wires and good quality wires. What brand should I get and what to get?
That is all the questions I have for now. I am just looking for the bass that's better than stock with crystal sound.
How much do you think these equipment will cost? Excluding installation/labor?
is there other subs/amps that i should be considering
TIA!
I got some questions.
1. Which is better? 2ohm vs. 4ohm and what do they do?
2. 10" Alpine Type R 1042d. Is this a good sub and will it fit into the 4080 enclosure?
3. I am not sure which amp to get for the full use of the sub. How's Alpine mono power amplifier MRP-M650?
4. Since I will be getting only 1 sub, do I just need 1 amp as well? Or do I also need to upgrade the stock amps?
5. Should I use the stock headunit to control the bass or would it be better to get a separate bass controller (DLS remote controller)? If getting separate bass controller is better, where can I get the DLS remote controller?
6. Is there anything else that I should be getting? such as dynomat, capacitator? I'm not quite sure what I will be needing. Are these necessary?
7. I heard there are bad quality wires and good quality wires. What brand should I get and what to get?
That is all the questions I have for now. I am just looking for the bass that's better than stock with crystal sound.
How much do you think these equipment will cost? Excluding installation/labor?
is there other subs/amps that i should be considering
TIA!
#6
04-24-2007, 11:15 AM
Originally Posted by chrispyy
somewhere answer these questions please.. it would be very helpful
i'll put it here..
Originally Posted by optimystic06
I was going to post this on your question about car audio, but later on I thought it would be better to just address you individually. Here it goes:
I was never good at quoting things one by one, with neat little responses in proper format.
So I'll try to answer as best as I can, even though I am a novice at car audio. ( so please anyone feel free to correct me if Im wrong)
1. "ohm" is basically a measure of resistance, a 4 ohm speaker will have higher resistance than a 2 ohm speaker. Here's a basic explanation: http://hondaswap.com/car-audio-secur...s-4-ohm-48266/
2. Really depends on what your definition of the word "good" is.
I'd think it would fit, 4080 vendor has a list of confirmed subs that fit his box.
3. Just see if the RMS numbers match up; if they are similar they should be fine. I was running too much power to my Image Dynamic Subs previously (ie. 400 rms to a sub thats rated at 300 rms) , and they would clip at high volume; which was no bueno.
4. Only need 1 amp to power your new sub; I never had Bose, but I assume the stock Bose system amp would be seriously underpowered if used in conjunction with an aftermarket sub. Would be a good idea however to change out your front component speakers, (with another amp), so the new bass wouldn't drown out the rest of your system.
5. If youre sticking w/ the stock headunit, probably will want an external bass controller. Many companies make those, not just DLS.....though I love and use DLS speakers/amps/equipment 24/7.
6. Its pretty difficult to give you a complete recommendation since you are sticking with most of the stock equipment, while upgrading the sub and amp. Stuff like this can become very expensive quickly; and honestly I couldn't recommend dynomatting a stock Bose system w/ an aftermarket sub/amp. The difference would not be worth the cost. Capacitor, I never recommend. I have approximately 1200 watts powering my system; and at one time I thought a capacitor might help. But I knew that it was not necessary. People will have varying opinions on this matter, but my opinion is that a capacitor for an amplified G35 Bose system would be extreme overkill.
7. There probably are bad/good wires, and cables, but in the end they will make minimal difference. Even so, I want my audio shop to provide me w/ the best (or at least one of the best!) that they can for my application. I can pretty much guarantee that speaker wire/power cables will not make a difference in the final outcome, unless the wire was sabotaged.
Make sure you see a G specialist, since you want to keep your Bose intact. Honestly I think that if you pay for all that ****, keeping the Bose system intact, youll be seriously dissapointed!
I was never good at quoting things one by one, with neat little responses in proper format.
So I'll try to answer as best as I can, even though I am a novice at car audio. ( so please anyone feel free to correct me if Im wrong) 1. "ohm" is basically a measure of resistance, a 4 ohm speaker will have higher resistance than a 2 ohm speaker. Here's a basic explanation: http://hondaswap.com/car-audio-secur...s-4-ohm-48266/
2. Really depends on what your definition of the word "good" is.
I'd think it would fit, 4080 vendor has a list of confirmed subs that fit his box. 3. Just see if the RMS numbers match up; if they are similar they should be fine. I was running too much power to my Image Dynamic Subs previously (ie. 400 rms to a sub thats rated at 300 rms) , and they would clip at high volume; which was no bueno.
4. Only need 1 amp to power your new sub; I never had Bose, but I assume the stock Bose system amp would be seriously underpowered if used in conjunction with an aftermarket sub. Would be a good idea however to change out your front component speakers, (with another amp), so the new bass wouldn't drown out the rest of your system.
5. If youre sticking w/ the stock headunit, probably will want an external bass controller. Many companies make those, not just DLS.....though I love and use DLS speakers/amps/equipment 24/7.
6. Its pretty difficult to give you a complete recommendation since you are sticking with most of the stock equipment, while upgrading the sub and amp. Stuff like this can become very expensive quickly; and honestly I couldn't recommend dynomatting a stock Bose system w/ an aftermarket sub/amp. The difference would not be worth the cost. Capacitor, I never recommend. I have approximately 1200 watts powering my system; and at one time I thought a capacitor might help. But I knew that it was not necessary. People will have varying opinions on this matter, but my opinion is that a capacitor for an amplified G35 Bose system would be extreme overkill.
7. There probably are bad/good wires, and cables, but in the end they will make minimal difference. Even so, I want my audio shop to provide me w/ the best (or at least one of the best!) that they can for my application. I can pretty much guarantee that speaker wire/power cables will not make a difference in the final outcome, unless the wire was sabotaged.
Make sure you see a G specialist, since you want to keep your Bose intact. Honestly I think that if you pay for all that ****, keeping the Bose system intact, youll be seriously dissapointed!
#7
04-24-2007, 08:58 PM
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i agree with the above answers. to be completely honest, a good set of components like the CDT ES610's should provide you with enough excellent sound quality if you don't care about loud, shaking bass. you need to replace the components for sure though. that CDT setup is definitely the best bang for your buck as far as components go. they are on sale for 299 from 799 at woofersetc.com.
i wouldn't keep the stock bose system. bose does good home theatre setups, not great for aftermarket car audio though. if you want quality to be happy with, change it all out. while you're at it, get rid of the crappy stock head unit and replace it with an eclipse or pioneer or something. alpine is not a bad HU either.
i wouldn't keep the stock bose system. bose does good home theatre setups, not great for aftermarket car audio though. if you want quality to be happy with, change it all out. while you're at it, get rid of the crappy stock head unit and replace it with an eclipse or pioneer or something. alpine is not a bad HU either.
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#8
04-24-2007, 09:14 PM
I'm in the same situation. I want to keep the stock head unit and have everything look stock. If I change out the components, I will just need to change out the front and rear speakers which are the same, correct? And the rear deck speakers are just useless and can be removed?
Mx220, what was the reasoning behind getting that certain amp instead of a JL500.1 like other similar set-ups i've seen?
Mx220, what was the reasoning behind getting that certain amp instead of a JL500.1 like other similar set-ups i've seen?
#9
04-24-2007, 09:19 PM
i heard that u should change the front speakers bcuz those are the most noticeables. the rear wont matter..
the reason y i chose the Alpine PDX 1.600 amp rather than the JL 500.1 is bcuz the JL 500.1 is a little weak.. usually you're supposed to over power your subwoofer slightly.. like a 750 watt amp would be nominal for that sub.. cause the power range on the sub goes from like 150Watts to 750Watts maximum...
the reason y i chose the Alpine PDX 1.600 amp rather than the JL 500.1 is bcuz the JL 500.1 is a little weak.. usually you're supposed to over power your subwoofer slightly.. like a 750 watt amp would be nominal for that sub.. cause the power range on the sub goes from like 150Watts to 750Watts maximum...
#10
04-25-2007, 09:31 AM
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the JL's are weak, i agree. They are just overrated and you pay too much for what you get. a diamond audio, elemental design, or audison amp would be pretty good to go with. alot of people go with JL on here simply cause they haven't done enough research, and because they are the "popular" brand. that, and most installation places carry that brand. but it's ultimately up to you as to how much you wanna spend.
and yes, the rear speakers wouldn't matter as much. imagine yourself at a concert....which speakers do you hear the most? unless you like turning around away from the stage, you mainly listen to the front. that is why you need a good set of components like the CDT's. those are probably the best you're gonna find unless you wanna pay ALOT of money for some other ones.
and yes, the rear speakers wouldn't matter as much. imagine yourself at a concert....which speakers do you hear the most? unless you like turning around away from the stage, you mainly listen to the front. that is why you need a good set of components like the CDT's. those are probably the best you're gonna find unless you wanna pay ALOT of money for some other ones.
#11
04-25-2007, 01:26 PM
When tapping into the audio signal for your Alpine amp, just make sure your audio installer taps into the audio signal BEFORE it goes into the Bose amp.
The bad thing about the Bose amp, aside from being underpowered, is that it applies an EQ curve that is undesirable for bass output, especially at higher volumes. I always recommend replacing the entire Bose amp if you are serious about sound quality. If your new amp accepts balanced line inputs, you don't need an LOC. Just cut an RCA cable, splice it into the left and right + and - from the OEM wire harness, and plug it into the amp.
I've posted the wire colors around here somewhere. I don't have them on this computer.
The OEM head unit isn't bad. It's made by Clarion. In my sedan, I have mated it with an Xtant 603X amp, Boston Acoustics speakers, and an Alpine 12 inch Type R sub in a 4080 box and the sound quality is really good.
The bad thing about the Bose amp, aside from being underpowered, is that it applies an EQ curve that is undesirable for bass output, especially at higher volumes. I always recommend replacing the entire Bose amp if you are serious about sound quality. If your new amp accepts balanced line inputs, you don't need an LOC. Just cut an RCA cable, splice it into the left and right + and - from the OEM wire harness, and plug it into the amp.
I've posted the wire colors around here somewhere. I don't have them on this computer.
The OEM head unit isn't bad. It's made by Clarion. In my sedan, I have mated it with an Xtant 603X amp, Boston Acoustics speakers, and an Alpine 12 inch Type R sub in a 4080 box and the sound quality is really good.
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