I wouldn't waste the money on the 6x9's either. Go with the amp, the comps and the coaxials. You can leave the bose amp connected to the stock 6x9's until you can get a sub.

Hook up the front channels to the components. The crossover that come with the comps will split the signal to the woofer and tweeter. You can bi-amplify the components but this isn't necessary. Hook up the rear channels to the coaxials.

Get rid of those bose 6x9s and get an 8 or a 10" sub. It'll make a world of difference.

 

I have 2 questions for ya:
1. I'm thinking about upgrading the front speakers with a pair of MB Quart RCE 216 6.5" Comps. I'll do the rest of the car later when the weather warms up. Can I install these on a BOSE system withou adding anything else (ie a new amp)?
2. Does the BOSE come with an amp? If so, where is it and is that where you would recommending a new amp?

 

I would definitely recommend getting an amp that will put out some clean power to the quarts. However, there are some guys using the stock bose amp claiming good results.

The bose does have an outboard amp. I'm not exactly sure where it is because I get my coupe in a few days. It's probably under the rear deck or below the trunk mat. I'll let you know in a couple of days if no one else chimes in.

 

Huh? Al you been giving me mad advice...and you dont even have a coupe ...yet?!?! Hmm...I havent placed any orders for anything yet but I will wait until you get your coupe so then you can repost cause I know youre gonna mod your system.

Are you positive 8 inch free air subs will fit the rear deck where the stock 6x9's are?

'04 G coupe TB Graph 5A (all options except NAV).
No Mods.....yet

"Hello Everybody...My name is Black and I am a G-oholic."

 

hey BB. I get my coupe in two long freakin days. I have done a complete overhaul of my buds coupe for him so I am very familiar with the coupe. He had the base system so there was no issue with the rear deck (6x9 or 8"). I got a JL 10w6v2 in a sealed box for him and he is one happy camper. I plan on doing the same if I can't get my 12w7 in there.

 

Ok ok. AL whats the verdict on Dynamat? Should I or should I not? I see its about 140 for a bulk pak of 9 pieces that are 18"x32"...is this bulk pak enough for the whole car? Are you in NYC? Can you help me with my coupe?

'04 G coupe TB Graph 5A (all options except NAV).
No Mods.....yet

"Hello Everybody...My name is Black and I am a G-oholic."

 

Hey BB,
I would try the new set up without the dynamat first. You can always add it later. My sedan is chock full of rattles, which is one of the reasons for getting rid of it. The dynamat does help. My bud's coupe has hardly any rattles from the stereo. He does fine without it. A bulk pack is more than enough if you do the problem spots only. If you want to do the entire car (do a search for str8dum's install) you will probably need more.

I would love to help you out my friend and save you about $200-400 in install costs, but I'm in Oregon.

If you do get the dynamat, get it off of ebay. (about $120 shipped).

 

al503,

As you seem pretty competent in the car stereo area, I have a question. I have MBQuart PSD216 in the front as I like the brightness, and BAPro Series 6.5 in the rear. I am currently using a JL 300/2 for the fronts and an Alpine T420 for the rear. BA on there website says the ProSeries are best at 3 OHM and the MBQuarts at 4OHM. So I was wondering, since the 300/2 is 150x2 at 1.5-4 OHM and I could run the T420 at 2 or 4 OHM, should I switch the setup and run the MBQuarts with the Alpine and the BA with the JL? Also, the Alpine is rated at 170x2 at 4OHM and 14.4V and I wondered if that might be too much power for the MBQuarts as even the 150x2 JL is higher than the 60-130W recommended by MBQuart on their website while the BAs are rated 20-400W? Thanks in advance for your input.

Pics so far http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290936425

 

Great question and nice install BTW. It looks like you know a little something about stereo stuff yourself.

To address your question:
I would probably leave the set-up as is. If I'm not mistaken, the Alpine rating at 170 x 2 @ 14.4 is at 2 ohms. At 4 ohms, it will probably put out ~100-120 watts RMS. You also have to consider that our alternators are nominally rated at around 13.8 volts with even less output at idle. When you have other accessories running, that could effectively drop down to around 12-13 volts. So, the Alpine would probably put out only 70 to 90 watts at any given time into a 4 ohm load. This would be sufficient for the P series but the JL (my favorite amps BTW) will put out 150 per channel from 11 to 14.4 volts with their RIPS system. In fact, they usually put out much more than their rated power.

For the best sound imaging, you should have a front soundstage. Leave the 300/2 on the quarts and the alpine will power the BA's with more than adequate power for rear fill purposes.

One other thing. With more than 150 watts going to the quarts, you might want to make sure that your gains are set properly. The P series could probably take up to 200 watts as long as the gains are set properly. JL has detailed instructions on how to do this on their website. I'm not sure if the Alpine does though.

Hope this helps.

 

Thank you for the information. I did have to set the gains using the technique on the web, it was very good to do as before I did it I had alot of buzzing on the fronts. About the T420, on the product box it does say 110x2 at 4 OHM, 14.4, and 170x2 at 2OHM, but the alpine web page must have an error as it lists it at 170x2 at 4OHM, 14.4 volts. Sort of misleading.

One other question I have for you if it is not too much of a bother. I want to set the 300/2 crossover for the front sound stage to be nice clear bright mids and highs and use the pro series in the rear for midbass fill. What would you feel would be a good crossover point on the amps? I ask this because I currently have it at about 65 Hz with a 24dB slope and on certain songs I start to get a smidgen (very technical word) of warble (sounds like bass vibration?). My idea is to raise the crossover or change the slope so I get less midbass/bass up front for cleaner highs/mids by adjusting the gain in conjunction with the crossover. I do not know if this is the right thing to do or even if I am explaining correctly, I just to not want my 2 12" subs always overpowering the highs and the voices, which is usually doesn't but on some heavy bass songs it does. By the way for the cubs I have 2 Kappa Perfect 12.1DVQs powered by two alpine MRD500s. Again, thank you very much for your input, it has been helpful.


Pics so far http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290936425

 

Even though the P series could probably go down to ~40 Hz, they are really not that comfortable down there. I would lift the x-over setting to something around 100 to 120Hz. You can have the BA's start at something around 80 to 110Hz. I don't know what you have the subs crossed but depending on the lowest crossover point, I would put them so they have about a 5 to 10Hz gap. You don't want any overlap with the subs and the speakers inside your car.

The reason I can't give you more precise frequencies is that speakers are different. You'll have to just play around with the cross-over settings until you get to a point you are happy.

I'm not familiar with the MRD500's but if they have a remote/wired bass **** available, I would definitely get it. It makes it very convenient to attenuate your sub output. Those perfects are very nice indeed.

Let me know if you have any questions or if you didn't understand something. I don't always come across very clearly.

 

I have a G35C 6MT and I just finished installing my system. It sounds so awesome. I am finding myself making up things to do just so I can drive my G and listen to the stereo.

I installed the following audio equipment:
Focal 165W Components
Focal 165CA Coaxials
JL Audio 8W7
JL Audio 500/5 (100Wx2, 25Wx2, 250Wx1)
Dynamat Xtreme (doors, rear panels, trunk)

I completed removed the 6x9's for added airflow. I highly recommend the Focal 165Ws. They sound crystal clear at any volume. I also love the JL 8W7. Great bass for music anywhere from Hard Rock to Rap. Plus, the small sealed enclosure lets you keep your trunk space.

Be proactive with the Dynamat installation. Do it while you install the speakers in the doors and side panels. Why go through the hassle of removing the interior panels twice? After installing the Dyamat I have zero rattles. That stuff is great.

Anyway, good luck with your install.

2004 G35C 6MT, Diamond Graphite, 35% Tint, Focal 165W, Focal 165CA, JL Audio 8W7, JL Audio 500/5, Phatbox MP3 (60GB), Dynamat Extreme

 

Al,

I just bought these online. Please let me know if these will work together.

MB Quart Comps. QM 6 1/2's
Infinity Kappa co-ax 3-way 6 1/2's
JL Audio 500/5 ( I bought this because it has an addtion sub channel and im hoping it will supply the sub I plan to add in the summer.)


'04 G coupe TB Graph 5A (all options except NAV).
No Mods.....yet

"Hello Everybody...My name is Black and I am a G-oholic."

 

Very good choices. I dont' think the 3 way kappas are necessary but it's not going to hurt. You're going to be amazed at the difference in sound quality. The first thing I noticed was that you hear things in you CD's that you didn't in the stock system. Also, you'll lose a lot of the resonance. Everything will be clearer. I wish I was in NY so I could help you with the install. I think it's pretty fun.

I would recommend adjusting the gains/input sensitivity per the instructions on JL's website.

Good luck!

 

For the chioces I made..Will I have to drill or cut anything in my car? Its a '04 and I really wanna avoid drilling and cutting completely.

Also pls recommend a nice 8 or 10 sub for $400 or less that will give great results with the remaining channel on that 500/5 JL amp.

'04 G coupe TB Graph 5A (all options except NAV).
No Mods.....yet

"Hello Everybody...My name is Black and I am a G-oholic."<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by BlackBuzzard on 02/01/04 12:49 AM.</EM></FONT></P>