Newest Stealth G35 install done :)
#31
#32
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
yeah, i do it all the time
what i am saying is though, if you want DLS 3 ways in kicks like that, ummm all it requires is some expoxy or hot glue, some dampening and a jigsaw, no need for me to make htem for you al though i would if you want.
most of hte kicks i build and ship are the two way kicks or on axis aimed kicks that involved molding with fiberglass
b
what i am saying is though, if you want DLS 3 ways in kicks like that, ummm all it requires is some expoxy or hot glue, some dampening and a jigsaw, no need for me to make htem for you al though i would if you want.
most of hte kicks i build and ship are the two way kicks or on axis aimed kicks that involved molding with fiberglass
b
Do you have any problems with the clearance behind the speakers (tweets and midrange), putting them there?
#34
Originally Posted by caelric
Hmm, thats right, on closer look, those are the stockers. I really thought, at first glance, that those were custom. I feel dumb...
Do you have any problems with the clearance behind the speakers (tweets and midrange), putting them there?
Do you have any problems with the clearance behind the speakers (tweets and midrange), putting them there?
the DLS dome mids are pretty shallow so a good fit, but you do have to move a big wiring bundle out of the way, whcih is quite simple acutally. snip a factory wire tie, and just pull it out the way a bit done.
a normal midrange though, would require molding to clear
southflorida, i know a few shops, though i cannot vouch for their work personally...i only know them as DLS dealers...
if you are interested, send me a PM and i can see about getting you their contact info
b
#35
Who influenced the choice of the DLS Iridiums? Was that you 16PSI?
Either way, excellent choice. I was very impressed with the SQ of the Iridum 6.3s, given proper power. The midbass performance as long as the door is sealed well is nothing short of phenomenal, adding solid kick to double bass drum hits and everything else.
I'm sure that they sound excellent. So was 1K the cost of labor and wiring?
Either way, excellent choice. I was very impressed with the SQ of the Iridum 6.3s, given proper power. The midbass performance as long as the door is sealed well is nothing short of phenomenal, adding solid kick to double bass drum hits and everything else.
I'm sure that they sound excellent. So was 1K the cost of labor and wiring?
#36
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#39
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what is that you used for dampening? looks interesting..
i was actually looking at the ultimate iridium 8.3i 3-way setup... have you done a set of those in a coupe before? i was curious to see where someone else would put the mid and tweet. im not fond of the timing required with speakers placed in the kicks haha
i was actually looking at the ultimate iridium 8.3i 3-way setup... have you done a set of those in a coupe before? i was curious to see where someone else would put the mid and tweet. im not fond of the timing required with speakers placed in the kicks haha
#40
As long as you set your gains right, 220 watts is sweeet. I think it was Bing who told me that one of the DLS show cars at sema had like 150-200watts of power to each of its drivers, not per side, but to EACH DRIVER! i have the RA50 bridged right now going into my iridiums 6.3. It sounds phenomenal, i like the power. When i crank it up, i can feel the music. But yes, be sure to set your gains properly. Maybe someone else can give a technical answer as to why 200watts plus will not fry the speaker(s) rated at 100-160watts
#41
1. 220 watts is not even close keep in mind that the iridium 6 has a 3" voice coil...whcih is mighty large consider a jl 10w7 doesnt have a 3" voice coil. and putting more power than rated to the front stage is definetly the SQ way to go, as long as you set hte gains and xovers right, you can put an 1000 watt amp to a single midbass, you just get a ton of headroom and great dynamics.
2. dampening? elemental designs edead, i use the V4 mass loader for the door to seal it up and v1ue ultra trhick around the speaker to kick down resonance
3. you say "im not fond of the itming required with speakres placed in the kicks"...do you mean timing required if you DONT put spekares in the kicks? or do you mean the time it takes to physically secure speakres in the kicks? cuase puting speakres in kicks, espeicaly in the G, is probably the ONLY place that would give you a decent center image and staging withOUT the use of time alignment.
4. i have done an ir8.3 in the Z...but i dont think its really needed for the G, unless you plan to do some molding ot fit the 8" properly and give it a proper opening...if you can do that, then sure, but other wise, the benefits of a little extra midbass can translate into a TON of work to do right
5. and eugue, the iasca world champion car we had at ces had 900 watts RMS into each pair or midbasses in each kick , so 450 watts PER midbass RMS
2. dampening? elemental designs edead, i use the V4 mass loader for the door to seal it up and v1ue ultra trhick around the speaker to kick down resonance
3. you say "im not fond of the itming required with speakres placed in the kicks"...do you mean timing required if you DONT put spekares in the kicks? or do you mean the time it takes to physically secure speakres in the kicks? cuase puting speakres in kicks, espeicaly in the G, is probably the ONLY place that would give you a decent center image and staging withOUT the use of time alignment.
4. i have done an ir8.3 in the Z...but i dont think its really needed for the G, unless you plan to do some molding ot fit the 8" properly and give it a proper opening...if you can do that, then sure, but other wise, the benefits of a little extra midbass can translate into a TON of work to do right
5. and eugue, the iasca world champion car we had at ces had 900 watts RMS into each pair or midbasses in each kick , so 450 watts PER midbass RMS
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i was reffering to the alignment and timing it takes when speakers are in the kicks. i'll be using two 12w7's and i wanted something with more midbass, last system i did with overpowering subs left the midbass no where to be found.
i am not competing SQ but i am shooting for alot of overkill. i do not want to sacrifice all of my SQ for pure Spl.
in your oppinion, what would be the better setup for best SQ at over 145db? this is the smallest car ive worked on but it is my personal car, so i need to flex my muscles on this one 0=)
i am not competing SQ but i am shooting for alot of overkill. i do not want to sacrifice all of my SQ for pure Spl.
in your oppinion, what would be the better setup for best SQ at over 145db? this is the smallest car ive worked on but it is my personal car, so i need to flex my muscles on this one 0=)
#45
Originally Posted by SilviaVsSupra
i was reffering to the alignment and timing it takes when speakers are in the kicks. i'll be using two 12w7's and i wanted something with more midbass, last system i did with overpowering subs left the midbass no where to be found.
i am not competing SQ but i am shooting for alot of overkill. i do not want to sacrifice all of my SQ for pure Spl.
in your oppinion, what would be the better setup for best SQ at over 145db? this is the smallest car ive worked on but it is my personal car, so i need to flex my muscles on this one 0=)
i am not competing SQ but i am shooting for alot of overkill. i do not want to sacrifice all of my SQ for pure Spl.
in your oppinion, what would be the better setup for best SQ at over 145db? this is the smallest car ive worked on but it is my personal car, so i need to flex my muscles on this one 0=)
well, did do a G with two 10w7s, and the iridium 6.3 set i did kept up wtih it decently...
if you wanna be sure, run two iridium 6.2" upfront, and run a good 100-150 watts per driver full acrive, that should keep up wth 145 dbs of subbass no problem
b