Lots of talk about the essentail front 6.5 components, but I had a question on the rears. For those who took out the Bose 6x9's, did you like leave the covers on? Or are there holes in those locations? I don't particularly like the Bose but I have to admit having those emblems there make it look a bit more expensive.

Other than that aesthetic question, has anyone tried amping the stock rear speakers with a 4 channel amp? I too like "fill" in my rear sound stage. I want to run a 300/2 JL w/ Q-lines, but would using a 300/4 for the 4 rears be a waste, beside saying you have 2 JL amps heh heh..

Black / Black 2004 GcoupeMT. Premium. Splash Guardz.

 

The best and cheapest way to get better rear fill sound would be to get good quality speakers and power them off of the stock amp. The speakers are the weak point in the bose system. They don't have a separate tweeter so you have a 6.5 woofer that has to play the entire frequency spectrum. It's a tall order and those paper speakers with the 'wizzer' cone "tweeters" (this term is used very lightly) don't cut it by any means.

 

That's how mine is set up - the stock bose amp is powering the rear 4 speakers. I have another 4ch amp with the front 2 channels powering the front components and the rear 2 channels are bridged to power a 10 inch subwoofer.
However, the rear Bose 6X9 woofers have been rendered extraneous and really is not necessary anymore.

 

I agree. I'm putting in a 10W7 in the back and having the rear deck 6x9s removed. You can leave the grilles there and there will be a hole to the trunk. The good thing is now that you can use that to enhance your bass from the sub. You can go with the MB midbass kits or go with the Premium coaxials for the rear fill if you think you need a rear fill. Personally I think if the fronts are loud enough and can fill the entire cabin, I'll be fine without rears.

I've talked to my installers further about biamping and bridging a 300/4. So far what they had to say was that since I wasn't changing my headunit and my crossover networks wasn't sophisticated enough, I would not be able to take full advantage of biamping my speakers. I also asked about bridging a 300/4 to emulate a 300/2 and they said that there could be some distortion issues associated with that and required further tuning and a 300/2 was the cleanest way to go. So I'm back to where I started.

Right now I'm waiting for my MBs to come in the mail and I'll be starting my install in a couple of weeks.


<font color=red>Shibal G-Thang</font color=red>
<font color=blue>'04 TB 6MT Graphite: Aero Pkg, Premium</font color=blue>

 

I have to disagree with your installer, shibal.

Take a look here bottom of the page:
http://www.mbquart.com/scripts/mbtec...YWdlPTE*&p_li=

The only disadvantage is the cost according to quart and it won't be in this situation.

 

Final question then. The stock 6x9 Bose. Do they only produce the "bass" frequencies? I really don't want to put in a sub, so how would this sound:

300/2 to power MBQuart Q-lines 6.5's.
300/4 to power MBQuart Premium line 6.5 coxials along with Bose 6x9.

Could this give me a semi-audiophile system?

Black / Black 2004 GcoupeMT. Premium. Splash Guardz.

 

I would go with your second choice. 75 watts (more like ~90-95) will go to you comps up front and you could wire the coaxials and the 6x9's in parallel. The only problem I see with this would be that the 6x9's would get a full range signal instead of just bass frequencies. The best way to handle that might be to get a full range 6x9 like the reference series in the quarts or the infinity.

There's nothing that says you can't leave the bose amp in to just power the 6x9's either.