Audio Upgrade Questions
Audio Upgrade Questions
Someone reccomended this setup and I was wondring what you guys thought. I am not an audio expert just want something better then this "premium" system. My Goal is to have a Clean setup that fits and looks stock. I want bass without a subwoofer taking up my coupes trunk space. I Plan on keeping the stock headunit and running a PAC Aux input playing a 60gig Neo Mp3 Jukebox. With the following components
Amp: Phoenix Gold Octane R 9.0:5 (125w rms x 4 @ 4ohms + 400w rms x 1 @ 2ohms) ~ $360
Front Speakers: MB Quart RCE 216 6.5" Comps. ~ $180
Rear Panel Speakers: MB Quart RKC116 6.5" Co-ax's ~$125
Rear Deck Speakers: MB Quart RCE269 6"x9" Comps ~$230
1. Is this a good setup?
2. How much would Install run me? I would need the ashtray removed and have some modification done to fit the MP3 players controllers in its place. The Controller is slightly bigger then the ashtray.
3. Since I am keeping the stock Headunit, I would still have my Navigation Voice right?
4. Will my tweeters not work now?
5. Anyone know a reputable place in the Chicago area to have this work done?
Amp: Phoenix Gold Octane R 9.0:5 (125w rms x 4 @ 4ohms + 400w rms x 1 @ 2ohms) ~ $360
Front Speakers: MB Quart RCE 216 6.5" Comps. ~ $180
Rear Panel Speakers: MB Quart RKC116 6.5" Co-ax's ~$125
Rear Deck Speakers: MB Quart RCE269 6"x9" Comps ~$230
1. Is this a good setup?
2. How much would Install run me? I would need the ashtray removed and have some modification done to fit the MP3 players controllers in its place. The Controller is slightly bigger then the ashtray.
3. Since I am keeping the stock Headunit, I would still have my Navigation Voice right?
4. Will my tweeters not work now?
5. Anyone know a reputable place in the Chicago area to have this work done?
Re: Audio Upgrade Questions
derek,
here is my answer to your question.
1) this setup will kill factory anytime.
2) install is different depending on the location. here in southern california it's cheaper because we got so many car stereo shop. Base on the setup, i think it will run you about 300 for install. THat doesn't include cable, etc.
3) don't know cause i don't have nav.
4) when you install the rce 216 component, it come with tweeter and midbass. so the tweeter will replace the factory tweeter.
hope that help
g35mt
here is my answer to your question.
1) this setup will kill factory anytime.
2) install is different depending on the location. here in southern california it's cheaper because we got so many car stereo shop. Base on the setup, i think it will run you about 300 for install. THat doesn't include cable, etc.
3) don't know cause i don't have nav.
4) when you install the rce 216 component, it come with tweeter and midbass. so the tweeter will replace the factory tweeter.
hope that help
g35mt
Re: Audio Upgrade Questions
I agree with g35mt. That sound system you listed will definately be better than stock. If you put Audiovox or RadioShack Realistic speakers and amps in there, it probably would sound better than the Bose system. j/k.....well ......maybe it would......
Profesional installation is such a tricky thing. You want to go to someone who is not only reputable but I would go to a shop that has worked on G's before. They are much more knowledgable about how to best run install wires, best install locations for amps, taking off your interior plastic door/trim/panel pieces without ruining it. I would pay a little more for that. You don't want a shop use your car as a labrat experiment for their very first audio install on a G35.
If you don't want a sub box that will take up your trunk space but want better bass, look into the Infinity BassLink powered sub. I have this and it is relatively easy to install, sounds great for what you get and fits snugly in the back corner of the trunk near the side firewall without taking up massive amounts of space. Its relatively inexpensive, $230-250 on Ebay. everything is housed in 1 unit, the 10" sub, the passive radiator and a 200W Class D amp. You can splice it into your rear shelf speaker wiring or simply daisy chain the BassLink RCA off one of your amps if it has an RCA output outlet.
Hope this helps.
Would an Audiovox or Realistic system sound better than the Bose......hmmmmmmm.......?
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by joepaniolo on 03/14/04 03:12 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
Profesional installation is such a tricky thing. You want to go to someone who is not only reputable but I would go to a shop that has worked on G's before. They are much more knowledgable about how to best run install wires, best install locations for amps, taking off your interior plastic door/trim/panel pieces without ruining it. I would pay a little more for that. You don't want a shop use your car as a labrat experiment for their very first audio install on a G35.
If you don't want a sub box that will take up your trunk space but want better bass, look into the Infinity BassLink powered sub. I have this and it is relatively easy to install, sounds great for what you get and fits snugly in the back corner of the trunk near the side firewall without taking up massive amounts of space. Its relatively inexpensive, $230-250 on Ebay. everything is housed in 1 unit, the 10" sub, the passive radiator and a 200W Class D amp. You can splice it into your rear shelf speaker wiring or simply daisy chain the BassLink RCA off one of your amps if it has an RCA output outlet.
Hope this helps.
Would an Audiovox or Realistic system sound better than the Bose......hmmmmmmm.......?
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by joepaniolo on 03/14/04 03:12 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
Re: Audio Upgrade Questions
Re: Audio Upgrade Questions
Heres what i would do in your situation.
You should ditch the 6x9's and just use the rear panel speakers. Then spend a little more money on getting a very good amp for your mids/highs. Then i would use a basslink for simplicity. So heres how your system should look for better performance.
One 4 channel amp ( for mids/highs)
front components
6.5 in rear panels
Infinity basslink for your sub.
I think you would be much happier with this setup than the one you were initially looking at.
Lots of people (including myself) prefer ditching both sets of rear speakers and put more power to the front speakers instead. This gives you much better imaging and staging. If you need to have rear speakers, then thats fine, but dont use the 6x9's. Stick with just the 6.5's in the panels. A basslink would be a lot better in terms of sound quality than using 6x9's as subs. Hope that helps.
You should ditch the 6x9's and just use the rear panel speakers. Then spend a little more money on getting a very good amp for your mids/highs. Then i would use a basslink for simplicity. So heres how your system should look for better performance.
One 4 channel amp ( for mids/highs)
front components
6.5 in rear panels
Infinity basslink for your sub.
I think you would be much happier with this setup than the one you were initially looking at.
Lots of people (including myself) prefer ditching both sets of rear speakers and put more power to the front speakers instead. This gives you much better imaging and staging. If you need to have rear speakers, then thats fine, but dont use the 6x9's. Stick with just the 6.5's in the panels. A basslink would be a lot better in terms of sound quality than using 6x9's as subs. Hope that helps.
Re: Audio Upgrade Questions
I'm looking at doing a similar setup.
4 channel JL amp (300/4)
1 JL monoblock JL amp (250/1)
6.5 separates up front
Kicker 6.5 midbass (RMB6)in the rear panels
For the rear deck I found some MB 6x9 separates on ebay. I will only use the woofer part of the set and cross them over at the amp. I found some 8in Kicker subs that are pretty inexpensive and can be used in a freeair application but I'm not sure if they'll fit in the rear deck.
Although the basslink is a nice solution, I really do not want to give up any trunk space.
BTW...i have the non bose stereo and I plan on keeping the OEM headunit.
4 channel JL amp (300/4)
1 JL monoblock JL amp (250/1)
6.5 separates up front
Kicker 6.5 midbass (RMB6)in the rear panels
For the rear deck I found some MB 6x9 separates on ebay. I will only use the woofer part of the set and cross them over at the amp. I found some 8in Kicker subs that are pretty inexpensive and can be used in a freeair application but I'm not sure if they'll fit in the rear deck.
Although the basslink is a nice solution, I really do not want to give up any trunk space.
BTW...i have the non bose stereo and I plan on keeping the OEM headunit.
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Re: Audio Upgrade Questions
To be honest with you, I think you should spend more money towards your front component...
I spent most of the money to the Focal 165K2P and some cheap soundstram 6.5 Co-ax for min. rear fill and I took the 6X9 out...
My front soundstage sounds so sweet that I don't want any rearfills to ruin the front....
As for Nav. voice, get a amplifed centered-speakers to hook into the nav voice
G35c, 5AT, NAV
INJEN CAI, Borla TD Exhaust, Grounding Kit
Kinetix Plenum, Hi-Flow CAT, Front Lip Spoiler
8000K HID, PIAA 7500K SPARK BLUE
Focal 165K2P, E10A.22, Eclipse HU, Nav-Tuner
I spent most of the money to the Focal 165K2P and some cheap soundstram 6.5 Co-ax for min. rear fill and I took the 6X9 out...
My front soundstage sounds so sweet that I don't want any rearfills to ruin the front....
As for Nav. voice, get a amplifed centered-speakers to hook into the nav voice
G35c, 5AT, NAV
INJEN CAI, Borla TD Exhaust, Grounding Kit
Kinetix Plenum, Hi-Flow CAT, Front Lip Spoiler
8000K HID, PIAA 7500K SPARK BLUE
Focal 165K2P, E10A.22, Eclipse HU, Nav-Tuner
Re: Audio Upgrade Questions
2 things:
1. you're getting good advice from everyone
2. someone lied to you about the output of that amp. It's more like 50x4 and 150 for the sub rms. You should also know that PG is known to give out their ratings at 2 ohms with a 14.4 volt power source that a car cannot create without modifications. I'm not saying that they aren't good amps. They are just a little misleading on their info.
1. you're getting good advice from everyone
2. someone lied to you about the output of that amp. It's more like 50x4 and 150 for the sub rms. You should also know that PG is known to give out their ratings at 2 ohms with a 14.4 volt power source that a car cannot create without modifications. I'm not saying that they aren't good amps. They are just a little misleading on their info.
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