one last try.



214472-IMGP1135-2.jpg

 

yeah I want something like that in my car I already have a JL 500/1 amp and a 300/4 from a previous car just sitting here as well as 2 12" JL W3V2 subs and I want to install them soooooo badly [censored] all I need now is some mids and highs

 

hey scobic, how many cubic feet is that sealed box setup you have? and does firing the sub that way have any effect on performance? I thought subs sound the best when they are firing towards the rear of the trunk, that way the frequency bounces back into the cabin, is that true? or it doesnt matter?

and how many guage is your wiring for your amps? 4guage? i wanna know is because, my shop is telling me to go with a 0 guage amp wiring kit, and i will need to pay an extra $100 for that... i already have all that stuff from my old install, but its 4guage wires, does 0 guage really make a difference? all i have is 2 amps, 450/4 and 500/1...

 

check this out.

This is from Crutchfield.com

They actually have lots of basic stereo info that can be useful.

When choosing wires and fuses use this chart, but remember to select the amp draw that you are getting...which varies based on speaker impedance (2 ohn, 4 ohm, etc)

http://www.crutchfield.com/installgu...ble_gauge.html



2004 G35 Coupe 6MT
Volk GT-7's/ TEIN Basics
Falken 245/35/ZR19 & 285/35ZR19
Kinetix Racing Camber Rods/ K&N Typhoon CAI<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by orljmh on 04/02/04 07:40 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

I have a full system sitting in a spare bedroom that came out of my old car. My coupe arrives here the end of april. I want to put some of it in my coupe, but my main concern will be the weight on the backend (making the springs compress). Have any of you with coupes and sub installs had this problem?

I have:
(2) 12W6-V2
(1) JL 1000-1
(1) Alpine V12
MB Quartz 6.5s

Alpine HU and Alpine DSP.

I may be out of my excessive audiophile days, but who knows.

-Chris

 

Yes.. The rear end will "settle" in. It will lower about 1" or maybe more depending how much you put in the rear. Mine was bout 1.5" more after my installation. When you set in the front with two people the front comes down a bit so hence there is no need for me to lower the car. I have 20's too.



<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by cloudkid on 04/04/04 12:09 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

Nice install. You said the labor was about $1800. How long did it take and what was the name of the place? Again, nice system.

 

The install took a full 5 days. I am extremely happy with the way it turned out. A friend of mine who does some custom jobs for the Tweeter near me did the install. So technically it was done at Tweeter but done by someone I knew I could trust and knew what kind of quality of workmanship I was getting. I typically wouldnt trust the average young installer at stores like Tweeter. with enough questions and research you can find the right person for the job.

 

The sealed enclosure is slightly over 1 cubic foot. I do not notice any loss in performance with the sub aimed as it is. I dont know 100% though since I never had it installed any other way for comparison. The sound I get out of it the way it is positioned though is still more than I need, so if there is a better way of placing it to get more sound out of it, that would be crazy!!! as far as the size of the coupe and the power and quality of the 500/1 and 10w7 the aiming wont effect it too too much.

Off the top of my head right now i dont remember exactly what guage wire was used. but I am pretty sure he used 2 gauge from the battery to the trunk (into my Phoenix Gold capacitor) and then 4 gauge out to my 3 amps. You could get away with the 4 gauge that you already have but when you're cranking your system you will be pulling some serious current levels. Have you looked online to try and get a better deal than what they are offering you? I dont believe you HAVE TO go with the 0 gauge but possible a 2 instead of a 4. What kind of capacitor you looking to buy or already have? I ended up getting a great deal on a 10 farad cap so I went with it (i know it is over kill) but it worked out great. Let me know if you need/want any help pricing some material and equipment online. I would be glad to help.

 

Hi Scobic,

I really like your install. One thing I'm not getting from your pictures, does that enclosure have a rear side made of fiberglass or something? Or is the car the "rear" side of it? How is it sealed to the wood?

I have two 10"s from my previous car. My initial thought when I looked at this was that one 10" couldn't be enough. But when I dropped my 10"s into the G, I found that this car is much more conducive to bass reproduction than my old Mustang. The same speakers are easily 2-3x louder, I had to gain my amp all the way down because they became so loud.

I'm still debating on where I want the subs to go. I really like your setup as I think you have the sub in a place where it's wasting the least amount of usable trunk space. I could put the subs on the "floor" but that would mean putting "stuff" in the trunk would lay ontop of a sub, which could be a bad thing.

Has anyone tried putting a sub in both sides of the trunk? I imagine they might cancel each other out. But I'm curious if anyone has experience doing that.

 

The rear side of the enclosure is made of fiberglass. When they made the enclosure they tapped off the inside corner of the trunk. applied the fiberglass resin to the tap and waited for it to harden. The corner mold just poped out and then they created the proper dimensions they needed for cubic volume with MDF board. the mdf board was then sealed to the fiberglass mold using fiberglass. the enclosure fits perectly and is sealed tight. I don't see why you couldtn put them in both corners of the trunk as long as you angled them either towards the front a little or towards the rear a little (enough so that they are not firing directly at each other) which would cause phase interference between the two. I originally was thinking about doing the floor install like you mentioned but was afraid of putting things in the trunk. As it is placed now there is no problem, however I do think I will be hunting for some kind fo grill just to prevent large stuff from sliding into the cone. 1 or two metal/alluminum 1/8" bar-like pieces should do the job and still look good. still playing with that idea though.

 

scobic, hrmm... you recommend a 2 guage amp wiring kit? thats gonna be like $100 extra for me... and the install is already costing me a lot... i wanna go with what i have which is 4guage... do i really need 2 guage? if it will make a difference, then ill get it, but if not then ill stick to what i have.... my system will consist of 2 amps... 1 jl 500/1 and 1 jl 300/2, do you think i really need it?

i heard 1 10w7 in a sealed box with a jl 500/1 in a 4 dr 98 accord, and it sounded horrible, very sloppy... i hope this wont be the case in the coupe... i am really hoping that it was the car that made it sound bad...

 

Eurog35, If you're running just the 500/1 and the 300/2 the 4 gauge will work. What kind of connections are you looking to make between each amps power leads and the battery? Are you going to use a cap? typically .5 farad is recommended for every 500W you have. with your setup I would recommend you get a 1farad cap. this will prevent any annoying power fluctuation. (If you haven't bought one yet I have a Monster Digicap 1 farad I bought to use but found something else that replaced it. PM if you have any interest in it)... anyway four gauge cable from the fused battery to the cap and then through a distribution block you should be good. then from there you can go with whatever you have from your other install to the amps.

as for the 10w7 500/1 setup you heard in a 4dr accord I am guessing there was something wrong with the settings or something. unless you are looking to go deaf overnight i wouldnt expect you to be dissapointed with that combo.

What are you running the 300/2 with (if I may ask)?

 

scobic i plan on running the 300/2 to my boston acoustic pro 6.5's, and not having rear fill at all... so 150x2...

thanks for your input