OK... I am an audio expert,
Here is what I would say your problems are without actually seeing the setup:
I'm assuming you were using a BD1000 which pulls a little over 100A. With an amp that size, not only do you need to make sure you have a good high CCA main battery, you should add a second battery NOT just a capacitor. Your amp failed because your voltage was dropping too low on a regular basis. Class-D amps generally fail because they are not provided adequate stable power and the input section of the power supply blows.

The radio station problem is a different issue. Class-D amps have a high RF output due to the switching in their power supply and this RF plays hell on radio reception. Some models and even some production runs may have higher RF output than others.

 

This ties in well with what I posted, you have a 110 amp alternator and an Amplifier that will pull upwards of a 100 amps. Do the math.

 

I see. So what amp would you recommend to run a 10W6 with a stock bose unit?

 

i fixed my problem, it was the battery, too much corrosion on that ****.. so i got a regular battery, fixed the problem right away. i'm trying to get the optima yellow dry cell, i guarantee it will fix the problem.. i figured it was the battery because when im on the freeway(altenator works harder), the subs hit way harder. so i think everyone should check their battery. plus g35 has a lot of electronics which draws more power from the battery..i think...

 

I have had both a rockford BD1001 and a JL 500/1. I prefer the 500/1 JL. I have 1 10W6V2 in a 4080 enclosure and it sounds great.

 

I'm a little biased so my answer is the Realm D500.1; assuming that you're using the W6v2 with dual 4-ohm voice coils. Other than that any good quality 500W class-D sub amp should work for you. Be sure to upgrade your battery if you are still using the stock one from 2003 or you will probably continue to have problems.

 

Lot's of great input here. I am also in the car audio industry. Let's take a look at the root of the problem here, the original statement was "my car slows down when bass hits." Is this possible? Yes! Why? An amplifier that draws as much current as the Rockford Fosgate 1001bd places a huge demand on the electrical system in a vehicle. When an electrical system is taxed like that, something has to give. But let's not focus on the amplifier brand, it could be any amplifier with high current demands. So what provides current in a vehicle? The alternator. The car battery is only used to start the vehicle once the vehicle is started the battery is just another load on the alternator. So will adding a battery fix this particular problem? I don't think so, adding another battery or even 2 new similar batteries (one to start and one for the stereo) will introduce a larger load on the alternator. So why do we see so many car audio demo vehicles with multiple batteries? Easy, so we can play them longer without having a charge source, i.e. when the engine is not running or when it's not plugged into a power supply. So what is the fix here? A good quality multi-farad capacitor is a good fix. How will a cap work in this situation? A cap has storage characteristics like a battery but a cap usually has a much lower ESR (equivalent series resistance) than a battery which means that it charges and discharges much faster than a battery. Why is this a good thing? Well assuming that most of us listen to music and since music is very dynamic, the ability for the cap "buffer" this dynamic change in current demand (music) works well to stabilize the voltage current to the amp.
I would have to say that this is only part of the fix. Things like upgrading the factory ground wires are often overlooked by even the most experienced car audio installers. Running a large battery wire to your amplifier is not enough. I always recommend upgrading the ground wire from the negative side of the battery to the chassis ground. And if the problem still persists have your alternator checked by a qualified shop.
Sorry for being so long winded but this is a battle that we in that audio industry have been fighting for years.
Just my .02

 

TopGun,
Great post, but I guess we will have to agree to disagree about the battery vs cap issue. At my former company we did extensive testing between capacitors and batteries and caps do not make a good substitute when pulling current like we are discussing (100A+). You will very quickly draw past the cap and have the same voltage problems as if you never added it. Caps are great as long as you have either a very high output alternator or a substantial enough battery system for adequate voltage supply and stabilization.

I'm assuming you work for Rockford by the username and location but I could be wrong. Do I know you?



-Chris McSweyn
Scosche Industries / Realm Audio
Product Manager

 

I'm running a NINe.1 (@~900watts) and a 300/4 off of a optoma redtop and stock alternator. . .I haven't had any problems other than my radio reception being pretty crappy now. Any way to insulate the RF emission from the amps? Sorry 'bout the OT, guess I'm just one of the lucky ones that has a "working" stereo? Oh, I ran a 500/1 with various sub setups off the stock battery and alternator for a good 3 years too without issue. . .
good luck!

 

Hey Chris, I can see where you are coming from on that and I can agree with you to a certain extent. Yes you can draw more current that a cap can provide if you have a constant level of high current draw, however most consumers listen to music so high current draw happens in a matter of micro seconds. I did say that caps are only part of the fix and in most cases will help most systems, but a through check of the electrical system before installing a high powered system is an absolute must. It is important to identify potential shortcomings before things like slowing a car down when the bass hits become a problem.

And yes I do work for Rockford Fosgate, nice to see you here.

Let's save the world from bad car audio!!

Jason Digos
Rockford Fosgate
RTTI Top Gun Training Manager
Tempe AZ

 

Chris and Jason, thank you for your professional input. I look forward to learning from you both in the audio forum.

 

Jason,
Nice seeing you on here. Can't wait to see your system when it's done.

Here's the one I'm building. (I say BUILDING because as you know, they never seem done):











Thanks for the good words Gilley

 

bump...id get a cap.

 

ok i am no audio expert but have had many systems and worked pretty closely with my installer over the years and have had some amazing sounding systems. too bad right now im too broke to put my 2 12w6 v2's into my car cause it will definitely need to be custom boxes (anyone know how much this might be?????)

but after reading this entire thread i have heard that caps do help yes but only when their is extensive footage of wire. for example i had a 330ci and therefore the battery was in the trunk (3 ft away from my amps) and my installer said a cap would really not make too huge of a difference because of such short wiring. i definitely second the issue with second batteries, which are awesome to use in lets say tailgating and of course my favorite hanging out on a boat with a nice system however they seem useless while driving.

the one thing no one has mentioned here which i have heard about is re wrapping the alternator. my installer mentioned it to me when i had a 1000/1 a 300/4 and a 300/2 (JL ftw) in my jeep grand cherokee. he said it was fairly cheap and would be the most efficient way of maintaining the power while driving. anyone have input on this? thanks guys

 

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