Hey I have an 06 Sedan with the Bose setup. I bought a 10in JL W6V2 with a JL 500/1 amp and I want to wire the amp into the signal BEFORE it hits the bose amp(im under the impression that this is the best way to avoid the bose amp EQ issues).

Here are my questions that I still have after searching the forum:

1-What is the best way to get to the wiring harness of the bose amp. I read somewhere that on the sedan the bose amp is around the rear deck. Is it best to access it from the underside of the rear deck in the trunk? If so how do I remove all the panels to get access to it?

2-How many channels are going from the HU to the Bose amp? Front Left, FR, Rear Left, RR? Which is the best to splice into? Is there a schematic of the wiring harness online? I have only found the wiring for the couple but im not sure if it is the same or not.

4-Should I disconnect the built in 8in sub in the rear deck? If so what is the best way to do this so I can easily reconnect when I get rid of the car?

5-Are there any good grounding points in the trunk of the sedan? If so, can someone give me an idea of where to look?

6-Once I install the sub and amp what bass setting should I use on the bose HU. Should I leave it at 0 and just use the bass boost on the JL amp of should I set it higher on the bose HU and turn down the JL amp?

Thanks so much!

Chris

 

If I recall correctly, the Bose amp is in the trunk under the rear deck. You'll have to remove the plastic rivets of the cover panels to get to it. Start removing the rivelts and you'll figure out how to get to it.

4 channels come from the Bose HU - LF, LR, LR, RR. In my sedan, I connected to the rear outputs so I could control the bass level with the fader.

I would disconncet the stock sub.

There are metal grounding points all over the trunk. Look for bolts of make your own with a screw into the metal. Remove any paint at the grounding point.

You will have to adjust the amp gains by ear after the installation.

 

Thanks for the info. What should I use to reseal the hole that i have to cut in that grommet when I run the power cable from the engine bay to the back? Will silicon caulking be enough? Also I should wire the sub at 2 ohms correct? Im using the JL w6v2 with a jl 500/1 amp fyi

 

Silicone sealant will work. The JL amp will handle the 2 ohm load of the sub just fine.

 

One more thing, the prefab box that i have has the carpet on the outside all the way up the to 10inch hole. Wont this affect the sealing of the box and sub on the baffle? What is the best way to ensure there is no leakage due to the carpeting being under the mounting ring?

 

The carpet should seal up against the sub when you tighten the screws. But you can add some weatherstripping from Home Depot or some speakers have some gasket material.

 

If I tap into the HU output for the JL amp signals, do I need to use a line out converter? If i dont "need" to, should I? what are the benefits of using a Line out converter. I just called my local audio shop and they said they would not install my setup unless I used a Line Out Converter because the signal could be either too high or two low. (I explained that it would be tapping into the HU output which is low level.) Is there any validity to their claim? I want the best sound, im not worried about $25 for a line out converter

 

The Bose HU output is between 1 and 2 volts. You can cut an RCA cable and splice the cut ends to the OEM audio harness. The RCA ends plug into the amp. No LOC is needed.

I had my Bose system like that with a JL 500/5 in my coupe until I installed the DD HU. I have it that way in my sedan right now plugged into an Xtant amp. No LOC is needed.

The shop you spoke to probably doesn't know much about the Bose system in the G. If anything, a line driver (line amplifier) would be beneficial and not a LOC.