What's up everyone,

I currently have (2) JL Audio 10w3's subs powered by a JL 500/1 amp. I am thinking of switching my subs to (1) 12w7 or 10w7, while keep the JL 500/1. What do you guys think? What should I expect in sound? Louder, deeper bass, etc? Any advise is appreciated. BTW, I also have a JL 300/4 wired to JL 6.5 components and coax in my 03 sedan. Thanks!

 

The 500/1 is the recommended amp for the 10W7 but if you are willing to spend alitte more and go for the 12W7 you will get louder with the same amp than the 10W7 because of the additional cone area. And if you are willing to give up the space, I recommend you use a ported box.

Do you hear me?

 

What you have right now is pretty good. Going to 1 w7 probably won't give you much more SPL. However, I think the 12w7 will give you a noticeable boost in the low end. I had a 12w7 powered by a 500/1 in my sedan. It was pretty amazing how low and deep that sucker got. Instead of just being able to move your hair, I could feel the bass go through me if that makes any sense.

I wouldn't bother if you're just gonna switch to the 10w7 but again, the 12w7 will make a good difference.

 

I'd say go for the 10W7. If you have a coupe, don't even think about a ported box, unless you plan on giving up your spare. Go with a sealed enclosure.

The 12W7 will need more power in my opinion. The suggested amp is the 1000/1 which will cost you more $$$. Reason being that if you are in a habit of maxxing out the volume and gain on your sub, the underpowered 12W7 with the 500/1 amp it may start clipping and damage your equipment. Somehow I doubt many people will be maxxing out the volume **** with a 12W7 with a 500/1 though. The other downfall with the 12W7 is the sheer size and enclosure displacement requirements. If you have a coupe it's an automatic loss of spare. Not sure about the sedan since I don't have one.



<font color=red>Shibal G-Thang</font color=red>
<font color=blue>'04 TB 6MT Graphite: Aero Pkg, Premium</font color=blue>

 

I just switched to 2 10" 10w6v2's in a Prowedge box from a 12w7 in the Prowedge. Both setups were run with a JL audio 500/1.

What I can tell you is.....even with the 500/1, the 12w7 could get so low, I saw my roof RIPPLING. the 12w7 just wasn't tight enough (also partly due to only 500W pushing it), so I opted for the 10w6v2's. Much tighter and cleaner bass, but I do miss the low end boom. I will likely switch out to the 1000/1, though.

If your a big fan of clean tight bass, stick with nothing bigger than 10"s.....the 12w7's can still pack pretty clean bass, but you still loose a lot of it due to its excursion abilities.

By the way, there's still decent room in the sedan trunk even with the 12w7 prowedge, a JL 450/4, and 1000/1.

'03 BS sedan 5AT, nav, woodkit, Z-tube/JWT, Eibach Pro-kit, Nismo sways, clears, sat radio, BA Z-series fronts, Pro-series rears, JL 12W7, 450/4, 500/1, Stinger 1 Far cap, Clif rem start, tint

 

Just gonna be up to you man.. I have (2) 8w7's in my trunk with a custom built box where they fire in opposing directions sideways (toward the shock towers). When I removed the stock 6x9's in the rear deck and put my Boston Pro's in the back seats my SPL's and sound quality/imaging improved greatly

 

I have to disagree shibal.

Performance:
The 500/1 is a great match for the 12w7. You'll be able to get over 90% of the sub's potential with it. With a 1000/1, I bet you would only get another 3 or 4% at most, which will translate into possibly 1 or 2 db's at the ear.

Electrical system:
1 or 2 additional db's is not much for the additional wear and tear that the 1000/1 will reek on your electrical system. IIRC, the 1000/1 requires a 120 amp fuse. Our stock alternators are rated at 110 amps. With his 300/4 pulling another 30-40 amps, the electrical system can't power the amps let alone the car itself. When the amps can't get enough power from the alternator it will look to the battery for more power. Also as the voltage drops, the amps will try to pull more from the battery to make up for the drop. Unless he gets a new alt, he won't be able to power the amps to their full potential.

Clipping: Properly setting the gains with a test tone cd and a multi-meter will take 10 minutes at most and will assure that the w7 doesn't see a clipped signal.

Enclosure size: Recommended enclosure size sealed for a 10w7 is 1.25 ft/3. The 12w7 is 1.375. Not that much of a difference.

I had my 500/1 bench tested and it put out over 700 watts at anything over 13 volts. Most alternators put out 13 to 14 volts. The recommended max RMS is 750 watts for the 12w7.

He will be more than happy with that combo especially with the enhanced ability to go extremely low.

I cranked the system I had in my sedan every once in a while. When I did, I was literally afraid of breaking the rear window out because I had the rear parcel shelf pushed up against the back window with carpet foam underneath it for the rattles. Unless he is going to enter the DB Drags, he won't want anything more.

 

Thanks eveyone for the input. I guess I will discard the 10w7 and look into the 12w7. Right now my (2) 10w3's put out pretty tight clean bass (considering I am stuck with my Bose HU). So I would hate to loose that tightness, but I feel like I need more bass. My previous car was a honda accord, in which I spent a tremedous about of cash on sounds: 3 amps, 2-JL 12w6's, digital EQ, blah blah blah.

Anyway, it's kinda funny cause when I first got my car I said I wasn't going to do anything to it. Yeah Right I only lasted 3 months and then I went and got the JL 500/1 and 2-10w3's and keep the stock blows (I mean bose) speakers. The reason I went with 10's instead of 12's is cause I didn't want to drown out my highs. Also I was told by an audio pro, that the 10's would mix better with the bose speakers. After another 2 months of enjoying my bass, but with crappy as highs, I went out and got the JL components and coax, along with the 300/4. So maybe now with this setup the 12's will fit the bill better????

I have a friend that has a 12w7, so I might hook it up and put it to the test.

Also, does anyone know a good car audio shop in LA, CA, that can tune my system. The people I know, just do it by ear not with a tone cd or instrumentation.

Thanks again!!!

 

wickedel i was in the same situation as you, and finally got my system installed last week, its 1 10w7 with jl 500/1 and i can sure tell you this thing sounds awesome in the coupe, i had doubts that it wouldnt be loud or sound good, but oh my was i wrong... 1 10w7 is perfect, its amazing how loud and good this sub sounds, it rattles the crap out of my rear view window, my rear end rattles, which i need to get dynammated whenever i get more money. 10w7 is perfect, you wont lose too much space, but if you get a 12w7, you might not get that clean tight fast accurate base as the 10w7, and trust me, 1 10w7 is plenty more bass than i expected... it sounds like i have 2 12's in my trunk... you will be happy, the choice is yours though, im sure a lot of those who have the same setup can vouch for me on this one...

 

I had my bmw done at automotive entertainment in santa monica, they did a great job with tunning the sound. another shop is traffic jamz in enino, very well known but expensive. are you selling your 10's???

you can check out their work on my M3.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/trovan

2004 Blk/Graphite/6MT/Premium/Nav/Spoiler/XM/Splash/Formula1tint

 

Thanks. I might sell my 10's if I decide to switch. Not sure yet. I will let u know.

 

just do what this guy did

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...5&cat=25&val=1

red 6mt prem navi

 

al503,

I stand corrected. I also saw wicked's profile and he has a sedan. So I don't see any issues with going with the bigger subs. I have a coupe and going through my own install and what I wanted, the 10" was enough for me. The additional displacement requirement for the 12" is not that much different, but that's not including the additional volume the 12" takes up internally than the 10" which I don't know if it is significant. Another issue is just space in the coupe trunk with a max height in the middle of the trunk at approximately 11-12 inches, a box is not possible unless you take out the spare. For me, taking out the spare was not an option since I wanted the convenience to change my own tire without waiting for a AAA or Infiniti Roadside assistance.

In retrospect, what I would have liked to have done is gone with a bigger amp for my front components and bi-amped them.



<font color=red>Shibal G-Thang</font color=red>
<font color=blue>'04 TB 6MT Graphite: Aero Pkg, Premium</font color=blue>

 

No sweat shibal. I went with a 10 in my coupe for the same reasons. I would have loved to have used my 12w7 but it just won't fit without taking out the spare.

Your 300/2 isn't strong enough?