Im installing my sub and amp using the DIY from the forum, but the amp has a couple of setup options that I have to pick from.

So.......if I'm running an Audiobahn A1000T, an Audiobahn Sub **** and a Alpine 10 type R... What options do I choose in the back of the amp?

1) X-over: LPF or Full?

2) LPF (Twist ****): between 50 to 120?

3) Bass Boost: 0 or 18db?

4) Phase Shift: 180 or 0?

5) Sub Sonic: On or Off? then Sub Sonic (Twist ****): 20 to 30?

Do you guys think you could just give a quick explanation of the different options, if you have the extra minutes it would take?

Ps. I also understand that I have to fine tune it according to my car, but I believe that once I have an initial setup, and then understand what each option means, I will be able to get it done well...

Thanks!!!
DOMO

 

1) crossover = LPF (low pass filter)

2) adjust according to box/car (most general sealed applications will have the lpf set around 80hz)

3) adjust accordingly (use this as minimal as possible to avoid distortion)

4) phase shift 0

5) subsonic filters are used for ported boxes. are you going to be running the sub in a sealed or ported box? if you are running it in a ported box then use the subsonic filter.

 

1. X-over. If you're running a sub, then you need to set it to Low Pass. This will allow frequencies below the set value to pass through the amp and to the sub. If you leave it full, then the amp will amplify and send the full range frequency to the sub. It won't harm it, but it won't sound good at all and you'll waste power.

2. LPF ****. This is what sets that frequency threshold. If you set it to 50 and you have the xover to LPF, then the amp will send only frequencies from 50hz and below. Set it to what sounds best but if you're not sure, 90hz is a good setting to start with.

3. Bass boost. I always think these things are just gimmicks. It just turns up the volume of the bass. It doesn't necessarily turn up the gain. It's hard to differentiate between the two. However, use this as a last resort adjustment. Set it to zero. Adjust the gain first then play with this setting at the very end.

4. Phase shift. You know how your speakers have a positive and a negative and how the speakers still work no matter if you hook the up backwards or forwards? Well, if you have one speaker that's hooked up straight and the other backwards, they will play 180 degrees out of phase. That is, the cone on one speaker will push while the cone on the other speaker will pull, and this will have the effect of cancelling out each other out(if you remember your high school physics). Also, this cancelling effect can be introduced based on how and where the sub is positioned relative to the other speakers and to your listening position. This setting is so that if you need to play the sub out out of phase, you can do so without having to reverse the wiring to the sub. Set this to whatever you think sounds the best from your listening position. Most likely the driver's position.

5. Subsonic. Human ears can only hear within a range of frequencies. 20hz is about the lowest we can hear. So there's no need for speakers to play these frequencies but they do depending on if the recording studio included the frequencies. If we can't hear them, then why waste power in reproducing and amplifying them. This filter will take out any frequencies below this setting and save power. Set this to 20, but if you feel like the amp is being overworked, then you can set it to 30 and reserve a bit more power but you'll lose some richness to the music.

 

Thank you so much, that cleared up any questions I had!

And hopefully that ill help out someone with similar questions, when they do a keyword search....