8's in Doors
#1
8's in Doors
I'm looking to see if anyone here has 8" mids in their doors and if they wouldn't mind sharing their install process, any fabrication required, and even pictures.
I'm looking to put 10's in the doors and I'm wondering what issues I may come accross or even if 10's are do able, especially with a mounting depth of nearly 5". I'm sure I can fit 8's, but I want to be unique and want to go with 10's, as I've seen only a handful a setups with 10" midbass drivers in the doors.
I'm looking to put 10's in the doors and I'm wondering what issues I may come accross or even if 10's are do able, especially with a mounting depth of nearly 5". I'm sure I can fit 8's, but I want to be unique and want to go with 10's, as I've seen only a handful a setups with 10" midbass drivers in the doors.
#2
#3
In my last car, I had a set of 3-ways, Morel 8s, Morel 4s and Vifa ceramic tweets. The 8s were in the door panels, comps in kickpanels...
I had a (far more experienced) friend do the install, which basically included sealing the door frame with dynamat, creating MDF buildouts to mount the speakers, and installing a gasket around the speaker itself for a good seal. Essentially he turned the door itself into an enclosure. I had a JL 300/2 powering the midbasses, and they would pound. Throaty guitar stuff like Linkin Park was amazing. The buildouts should screw into the OEM location with recessed screws (so everything is flush), and then you can drill "new" mounting holes into the buildout, pretty much however you want to do it.
I'd suggest starting with buildouts, but if that ends up sticking out too far (keep in mind the excursion of the cone obviously) then you can either go with thinner MDF, you can choose some other material (i've seen crazy people use billet aluminum), or you could start trimming the door frame, which really isn't recommended if you want the car to go back to stock.
The reason for using the buildouts is that you obviously can't put an 8" speaker in a 6" hole, so the extra distance means that you just have to fit the magnet through the OEM speaker hole and position accordingly.
On a separate note I probably wouldn't suggest 10" midbasses simply because it's probably not necessary and you might end up having a hard time with it. Go with some good 8s and extra power, it's more than enough. The only thing a 10" driver will really get you is lower frequency extension, and IMO my 8" morels had enough/too much of that. I highpassed them once I added my sub, so it would not have made much sense to put bigger drivers in there.
Midbass drivers are meant to do midbass, and do it well. Leave the sub bass for the trunk.
Since sub-bass is so omni-directional, and since you'll have so much midbass coming from the front, the sub bass will blend into the front stage anyway... no need to produce that range from the front of the car.
Too many words. Must stop now.
I had a (far more experienced) friend do the install, which basically included sealing the door frame with dynamat, creating MDF buildouts to mount the speakers, and installing a gasket around the speaker itself for a good seal. Essentially he turned the door itself into an enclosure. I had a JL 300/2 powering the midbasses, and they would pound. Throaty guitar stuff like Linkin Park was amazing. The buildouts should screw into the OEM location with recessed screws (so everything is flush), and then you can drill "new" mounting holes into the buildout, pretty much however you want to do it.
I'd suggest starting with buildouts, but if that ends up sticking out too far (keep in mind the excursion of the cone obviously) then you can either go with thinner MDF, you can choose some other material (i've seen crazy people use billet aluminum), or you could start trimming the door frame, which really isn't recommended if you want the car to go back to stock.
The reason for using the buildouts is that you obviously can't put an 8" speaker in a 6" hole, so the extra distance means that you just have to fit the magnet through the OEM speaker hole and position accordingly.
On a separate note I probably wouldn't suggest 10" midbasses simply because it's probably not necessary and you might end up having a hard time with it. Go with some good 8s and extra power, it's more than enough. The only thing a 10" driver will really get you is lower frequency extension, and IMO my 8" morels had enough/too much of that. I highpassed them once I added my sub, so it would not have made much sense to put bigger drivers in there.
Midbass drivers are meant to do midbass, and do it well. Leave the sub bass for the trunk.
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Too many words. Must stop now.
![BOUNCE](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/bounce.gif)
#4
Very bottom of this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3749444
That's essentially what you do. I used one 3/4" thick piece, and mounted it to the door frame (inside the door panel), I didn't make something to add on to the door panel.
But you get the idea.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3749444
That's essentially what you do. I used one 3/4" thick piece, and mounted it to the door frame (inside the door panel), I didn't make something to add on to the door panel.
But you get the idea.
#5
Originally Posted by lancer
In my last car, I had a set of 3-ways, Morel 8s, Morel 4s and Vifa ceramic tweets. The 8s were in the door panels, comps in kickpanels...
I had a (far more experienced) friend do the install, which basically included sealing the door frame with dynamat, creating MDF buildouts to mount the speakers, and installing a gasket around the speaker itself for a good seal. Essentially he turned the door itself into an enclosure. I had a JL 300/2 powering the midbasses, and they would pound. Throaty guitar stuff like Linkin Park was amazing. The buildouts should screw into the OEM location with recessed screws (so everything is flush), and then you can drill "new" mounting holes into the buildout, pretty much however you want to do it.
I'd suggest starting with buildouts, but if that ends up sticking out too far (keep in mind the excursion of the cone obviously) then you can either go with thinner MDF, you can choose some other material (i've seen crazy people use billet aluminum), or you could start trimming the door frame, which really isn't recommended if you want the car to go back to stock.
The reason for using the buildouts is that you obviously can't put an 8" speaker in a 6" hole, so the extra distance means that you just have to fit the magnet through the OEM speaker hole and position accordingly.
On a separate note I probably wouldn't suggest 10" midbasses simply because it's probably not necessary and you might end up having a hard time with it. Go with some good 8s and extra power, it's more than enough. The only thing a 10" driver will really get you is lower frequency extension, and IMO my 8" morels had enough/too much of that. I highpassed them once I added my sub, so it would not have made much sense to put bigger drivers in there.
Midbass drivers are meant to do midbass, and do it well. Leave the sub bass for the trunk.
Since sub-bass is so omni-directional, and since you'll have so much midbass coming from the front, the sub bass will blend into the front stage anyway... no need to produce that range from the front of the car.
Too many words. Must stop now.![BOUNCE](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/bounce.gif)
I had a (far more experienced) friend do the install, which basically included sealing the door frame with dynamat, creating MDF buildouts to mount the speakers, and installing a gasket around the speaker itself for a good seal. Essentially he turned the door itself into an enclosure. I had a JL 300/2 powering the midbasses, and they would pound. Throaty guitar stuff like Linkin Park was amazing. The buildouts should screw into the OEM location with recessed screws (so everything is flush), and then you can drill "new" mounting holes into the buildout, pretty much however you want to do it.
I'd suggest starting with buildouts, but if that ends up sticking out too far (keep in mind the excursion of the cone obviously) then you can either go with thinner MDF, you can choose some other material (i've seen crazy people use billet aluminum), or you could start trimming the door frame, which really isn't recommended if you want the car to go back to stock.
The reason for using the buildouts is that you obviously can't put an 8" speaker in a 6" hole, so the extra distance means that you just have to fit the magnet through the OEM speaker hole and position accordingly.
On a separate note I probably wouldn't suggest 10" midbasses simply because it's probably not necessary and you might end up having a hard time with it. Go with some good 8s and extra power, it's more than enough. The only thing a 10" driver will really get you is lower frequency extension, and IMO my 8" morels had enough/too much of that. I highpassed them once I added my sub, so it would not have made much sense to put bigger drivers in there.
Midbass drivers are meant to do midbass, and do it well. Leave the sub bass for the trunk.
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Too many words. Must stop now.
![BOUNCE](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/bounce.gif)
With my Accord I did the baffles but I didn't mount them flush, it definitely would be easier to figure out whether there is enough clearance. 10's are interesting as I mentioned, but 8's are prob the way to go.
#7
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#9
Originally Posted by SR20DET510
MiloX also used 8" dyns in his sedan and has a thread on this forum.
What 8" are you planning to use?
Are you going 2 or 3 way?
What 8" are you planning to use?
Are you going 2 or 3 way?
![Big Grin](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
In case you haven't discovered it...
www.madisound.com
#10
Originally Posted by lancer
A 2 way setup with 8's is possible..just gotta use horns.
#11
#12
Originally Posted by lancer
horns in car are out of my league, but I hear you can have amazing results with them...
...and then people ask you "you have horns under your dash? Attached to your stereo?"
...and then people ask you "you have horns under your dash? Attached to your stereo?"
#13
Originally Posted by donpisto
Lol, I got quite a chuckle out of that. I've heard a setup with horns and it sounds amazing. The guy has them crossed at 900 Hz I believe.
![Big Grin](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#14
Originally Posted by lancer
Supremo and Piccolo, FTW! No need for horns!
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