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Which amp for.... Image Dynamics IDMAX10 D2 v.3?

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  #16  
Old 10-01-2008, 09:51 PM
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alright ^ well i am considering these 3 cuz they fit my budget:

MB Quart PAB 1200.1D - $280
1200w rms x 1 @ 1ohm
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17702

Hifonics BXi1608D - $255
1600w rms x 1 @ 1ohm
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19581

Total Mobile Audio (JL Audio Company) T1000.1 - $280
1000w rms x 1 @ 1ohm
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=18633

Hows the quality on these amps? Pretty good, or should I wait and save up for a better one? If theyre good, which one out of the 3? Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 10-01-2008, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Strtsk8r321
alright ^ well i am considering these 3 cuz they fit my budget:

MB Quart PAB 1200.1D - $280
1200w rms x 1 @ 1ohm
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17702

Hifonics BXi1608D - $255
1600w rms x 1 @ 1ohm
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19581

Total Mobile Audio (JL Audio Company) T1000.1 - $280
1000w rms x 1 @ 1ohm
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=18633

Hows the quality on these amps? Pretty good, or should I wait and save up for a better one? If theyre good, which one out of the 3? Thanks in advance!
Links don't work
 
  #18  
Old 10-01-2008, 11:24 PM
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Sorry I can't fix it with my iPhone. They are just 3 I selected from someones post on the first page. They should work there
 
  #19  
Old 10-01-2008, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Strtsk8r321
Thanks for all your suggestions guys, im gonna check em all out right now.

Today I went into an audio shop and asked the guy what he suggests and he showed me a 2ohm/4ohm amp and I said Im gonna run my sub at 1ohm and he said if I do that Im gonna blow the sub and over heat the amp.

Is he just an idiot or is that true?
He's an idiot. If you go back there (not recommended), you can tell him I said so. The benefit of a DVC sub is that it offers you more than one configuration to allow greater flexibility in system design. Amps are capable of running certain loads without overloading. As someone mentioned, your D2 sub can be configured to present a 1-ohm or 4-ohm load to the amp. You'll maximize the power output of a mono class-D amp by utilizing the 1-ohm configuration (provided that the amp is rated for that kind of load). Also, be cognizant that some manufacturers use CEA-2006 compliant power ratings while many of the lesser quality manufacturers do not and inflate their claims to the point of being hilarious.
 

Last edited by k67p67; 10-01-2008 at 11:44 PM.
  #20  
Old 10-02-2008, 12:01 AM
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Thanks Kurtis. Are the 3 companies of the 3 amps Im considering in my above posts CEA-2006 compliant?
 
  #21  
Old 10-02-2008, 01:08 AM
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I can't find anywhere that any of those companies use CEA-2006 compliant power ratings. That's not a bad thing. It's not a must that the amp you're considering buying be manufactured by a company that complies with that standard. You just need to be aware when you are comparing Company A to Company B. Amps that are rated using the standard will usually display the logo below on the packaging.
 
  #22  
Old 10-02-2008, 01:31 AM
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hmm it's really hard for me to make a decision because I haven't heard any similiar setups. I am kinda tempted to just get the j/l 500/1 cuz it's a reliable amp I can run my sub at 4 ohm. However I don't know if that will be enough power for me. I wish I had some way to hear them first to make a decision.

What do you guys think? I like heavy bass when listening to hip hop but then I don't always listen to hip hop. And I am going to be using this with the stock Bose system.
 
  #23  
Old 10-02-2008, 01:51 AM
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If he was talking specifically about that amp then yes, the amp can get damaged. You can wire that sub in parallel at 1 ohm or series at 4 ohms.

Running at a higher impedence, such as 4 ohms will also mean that the amp runs cooler, thus being more efficient. Better efficiency means the sub will see more power.

I also don't buy into the CEA crap. There are companies that are CEA certified and are truly crap, Audiobahn for example. The means of testing on some are way different than others. Some companies just do a better job.

It's a good thing to keep in mind Ohm's law. efficiency x voltage x amperage = power. Some of the older Hifonics 1600w amps were overrated, and so were the US Amps Xterminator series, though the manufacturer (of US Amps) were basically stating how their amps were defying Ohm's law, but later on I believe they admitted to them being overrated. Say if an amp has 80A in fuses and it is 80% efficient, and at 14.4V the amp will put out 921.6 watts (if it was rated at 1,000, well that's a lie right there). Only way it will do that if it is rated in the high 80% efficiency area, and not many amps are. The Alpine PDX amps are. Most amps are 70-80% efficient.
 

Last edited by The Stimulation; 10-02-2008 at 01:59 AM.
  #24  
Old 10-02-2008, 02:11 AM
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There's nothing wrong with having headroom. You are better off having the extra power and being able to lower the sub volume than wishing you had more power. Check craigslist and see if you can ****** a good deal there.

I don't know how legit this is, but for $200 it's a steal and you can wire it at 4 ohms. Very efficient, I was going to run 4 of them to my TC 5200 18" sub (quad voice coil): http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/839139285.html

Here is another, see if he will part the amp out: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/823564442.html
 
  #25  
Old 10-02-2008, 02:19 AM
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If a company is going to lie about their power rating being CEA-2006 compliant, that has nothing to do with the standard itself. The standard is intended to provide a level playing field so consumers can make better decisions using comparable specs. Without it companies can and do make claims of power output measured at 14.4VDC @ 1kΩ @ 10%THD. Unfortunately no body is tasked with verifying the accuracy of any one company's claims. I wouldn't buy any Audiobahn, Volfenhag, Power Acoustik, etc. gear because I suspect the integrity of their advertising claims. Still not a reason to bash the standard.
 
  #26  
Old 10-02-2008, 02:43 AM
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I just wouldn't go with something that has flaws. I'd rather go with something of quality. I determine that based on the parts used, it's design, and who is actually making the product. To be perfectly honest, I wouldn't touch a Kicker amp, at least the ZX model. Great on current draw but heats up fast and way too hot and power output-wise, it will do its rated, possibly a lil more, but I've found some odd things with it.

For example, when setting gains by tones, at 55 Hz or whatever tone I was using, there was no difference with the gain being halfway or higher. On music, it was a different story. It's the only amp I've owned that I've had that problem with.
 
  #27  
Old 10-02-2008, 02:49 AM
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Was reading some of your old threads on caraudiojunkies. Nice taste in equipment.
 
  #28  
Old 10-02-2008, 03:23 AM
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Thanks for the info guys. I will keep an eye out and try to find a deal on an alpine amp. Are there some other amps similar to that one that put out 1000 watts at 4 ohms that can be found used for under $300?
 
  #29  
Old 10-02-2008, 04:52 AM
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  #30  
Old 10-02-2008, 08:45 AM
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I had Arc Audio amp 1000x2 for my ID
 


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