EWWW,
What audio processor are you using to go from your Blose HU to your amp?

Definitely sounds like an install problem... and I have only done about 15 installs and I've had MANY issues and have learned so much hahaha.

The PDX I have went into protect when I had a 1 ohm sub hooked up (they were supposed to send me it wired to 4 ohm).

Also make sure that GROUND is secure! Usually, the amp will get hot if that's the problem. Get a voltmeter from Craftsman/sears. Check your impedance, check your voltage while running the amp. If voltage drops too low, the amp will have issues. Check all connection points, make sure there are no lose wire threads flailing around when the bass is bumping.

Good luck

 

This happened with the trunk as it is in the pictures and the sub on the driveway but hooked up

 

ahhh so you're running off high level inputs... did you install the amp or did you have it professionally installed? because now it sounds like the amp is going into protection. What you're going to want to do is check and make sure that your wires are correct and DO NOT run them off the rear speaker leads. Find the wires the go INTO the Bose amp and run your signal wires from there. The lower impedance is likely what's putting the amp into protection. And one more question... is the amp running warm or HOT it should only be warm.

 

I installed it myself. At first I had one of the wires wrong and nothing worked. Then I thought I fixed it cuz it started working. I used t-taps to taps the wires before the Bose amp except it's possible that they were slightly too big for the little wires going into the Bose amp. Could it be the problem if one or too is lose? How should I fix it?

 

I personally solder all of my connections.
This would be my next step:
Do you have a digital multimeter?
If you do or can borrow one do this:
put it to AC voltage (if auto ranging - if not put it to 10v-100v)
attached each end to the amps output side of the amp (so if you disconnect the sub just take those speaker wires and turn the music on fairly low. if you're getting a reading there it is likely a problem with the sub now.
If you aren't then look at the inputs. do the same as on the output side but on the input, if there is no signal coming from there then chances are you have a ****ty connection. Another way to test to make sure you have the right wires is attach 2 speaker wires to each end of a 9 volt battery and turn the system on but volume all the way down and tap the speaker wire (disconnected from the PDX of course) if you hear a pop you've got a connection that's usable. if not you won't get any sound out of it because you don't have the right wires OR the connection isn't stable enough.
and if those don't work. the amp has likely kaffed and it's a warranty job. but put the old fuses back in

 

thank you but im a little confused cuz youre saying if i get a reading its not a wiring problem, but wont i get a reading since the sub IS working at low volumes?

 

ok did you tap onto the rear speaker leads?
if so at higher volumes the bose amp turns off or does what's known as "bass roll off" the rear 6x9s - helps prevent blowing them and that could be turning the sub down or off.

next thing is how is the amp's cross over set?
the low pass should be set no higher than 80-90hz and the low pass between 40-50hz and I think in a previous post you said gain was set just under half. correct?

Sorry man gotta ask the questions in order to get the full picture

 

The bose amp isnt turning off at all. I tapped the wires BEFORE the bose amp. Gain right now is one line below half, but I would like it one line past half. The sub sonic filter can be off, at 15mhz, or 30mhz and I have it at 30 (just read the manual and I guess I should have it at 15). LP filter is at 75mhz.

Thanks for your help.

 

do you know if the wires you tapped onto before the amp are for the rear speakers or for the front speakers? not going to lie after this, without getting my head in the there I'm gunna be lost.

 

Honestly man, you need to get that amp installed right. That just isn't gonna cut it. I respect DYIers, but there are just some things better left to the people that know what they are doing.



Your going to need to tap the LOC to get a signal into the the bose amp's OUTPUT, meaning not the wires going into it from your source unit, but the wires running out to the speakers. The bose system sends a low-level from the bose deck to the amp, then high level after the amp to the speakers. See the thing is unfortunately you can't tap off that signal before the amp and get good results if any(usually you cannot grab a signal off of the input side). Make sure you tap into the wires running to a woofer, if not make sure it is a speaker that is producing lows.

More importantly: FIX THE GROUND. The problem you explained how it cuts out with higher volume levels tells me that at least the ground isnt connected properly.

Seriously, you need to get the installation done professionally, especially from what I am seeing there.

If not, please take the steps listed above and it will most assuredly solve your problem.

 

Yes they are for the rear speakers. I followed the DIY for adding a sub to the stock Bose system. Right now everything is working fine with the gain turned down.

 

first of all theres a 25 page thread talking about this installation and it says over and over and over to tap the wires before the bose amp or there will be heavy EQing on the sub.

Also is that ground location in the picture not a good place?

 

This is what I did: https://g35driver.com/forums/1188712-post4.html

Maybe the harness is different for an 04 vs an 06? i just dont get why everything worked perfectly fine for 3 weeks and now this.

 

so it worked fine for 3 weeks, then it started blowing fuses, THEN it started being quiet when volume is loud?
I'd say try swapping over to the front speaker leads first because I think the bass rolloff is what's causing the sub to cut out.

 

I found a similar problem: http://www.fixya.com/support/t504915-alpine_pdx_1_1000

Should I get a capacitor?

Also, when the sub hits, the lights blink and flicker a little