well your high amp doesn't have much current draw. and so a cap REALLY won't do anything for your highs at all. a cap is for lack of a better term a voltage stabilizer. keeps a small charge so when the voltage dips coming down the line the voltage can stay relatively constant. giving you better bass dynamics because it takes more energy to replicate low frequencies than high

 

dude sorry you'd bridge the rear speakers to sub on the 4 channel? are you serious? that would DESTROY the 6x9s/6.5s (not to mention sound like crap). Those speakers are not capable or reproducing those notes

 

Tweeters don't draw much power, nor do they need all that much power in the first place. Also, higher frequencies, such as those in the range the tweeters function in don't draw current at the levels anything near what sub bass or even midbass does.

A simple way to test if your mids and tweeters are pulling a lot of current where it is diminishing a plenty amount of voltage drop would be to disconnect the sub, play some songs that you listen to and with a DMM notice and record the voltage. Next, disconnect the cap and do the same thing. If you want to test specifically tweeters, then disconnect the mids.

You will notice it's the lower frequencies that draw more current, those within the sub bass region. I used to run 6 speakers in total off a 2 channel RF 500a2, more than what should be connected, but it got pretty loud. After I was done building my enclosure I dropped it in, hooked up the sub to the same amp (disconnected all other speakers) and set my gains with a DMM. Voltage significantly dropped and at full tilt I would get dimming, which was an instant sign, and the voltage was even dropping lower.

As for as speakers, you're right, it is all about personal taste. I used to have DLS Iridiums and I didn't think the tweeters sounded that great, felt they were a lil too harsh, but I heard them in a setup that was well tuned and it changed my perception immediately, so the install makes a HUGE difference. There are some of the new Focals which I don't like, I forgot which ones, but they were V3's or something. It's the line above their Access line and they have a ton of midbass, which was nice, but I think it lacked in midrange.

 

Heh, didn't see this response before I posted, but simply put, this is what I was stating...I just went the longer and more detailed route, lol.

And I also noted that the caps retain a SMALL charge when voltage dips. It acts when it needs it, which is instantly. Think of a cap as a battery, a crappy one, once you drain it, it needs to get recharged. How far spread apart are bass notes? How long are they held? The rate at which caps recharge and have to discharge are incredibly slow and you are much better off buying a second battery which would dramatically make an improvement in comparison to a cap.

The only time a cap should be used is if it's a) for show, b) used in a healthy system which will run just fine on it's with minimal voltage drop, but again, why waste the money on a cap, extra wiring, time to install, and the hassle?

 

Re-read my post and I said that I was saying use a 4 channel amp for the fronts, the other channels bridged to a single SUB. Not the rear speakers. Those would be powered of the Double Din. Since it would be not a dedicated mono block amp, asking the amp to do highs and lows makes it work harder than a 4 channel on highs and monoblock on subs. If an amp is working harder, it becomes less efficient. Providing the best signal and power flow will help to maximize the amplifiers capabilities. Note that I also mentioned using dynamat to get even more sound quality The point I was trying to make is maximize from beginning to end and you would be surprised at how at the little things can add up to a much bigger picture. Would you just slap a turbo and intercooler with a boost controller on and call it a day? No, if you wanted to maximize the most out of the turbo you would do things like add a bigger fuel pump, run better gas, etc... In all my years of installing and putting together sound quality and spl cars, the little details were the difference between winning or losing and not in the "show" category. And as for time and hassle; its four screws, 1 power , 1 ground and a few ring terminals.

 

I'm not trying to start crap, I was just trying to give the original poster some other ideas for doing something a vehicle that is not a massive SUV that has lots of space. I have shown lots of my customers the benifits of keeping it simple and efficient. If the car is a show car, by all means fill it with equipment everywhere. If its a daily driver, make it pleasing but easy to work with/on.

 

In respect to the front stage being run off a dedicated 4 channel and the sub off another amp, that's the route I would go simply, because it's my preference. However, the efficiency really depends on several factors, some of which include the amp itself, how much cooling there is available for it, the amp's temperature, how much current it's drawing, etc.

Using a 5 channel amp might be a better idea, because if you're not drawing much current in the first place and voltage is where it should be then running a 5 channel can be better than running a 4 channel and 2 or 1 channel. It depends on how much current each amp draws.

For example: I'll make up some numbers, these are not for actual products. Say a 5 channel amp uses 100A in fuses and going with 2 amps you have a 4 channel that uses 50A and a 2 or 1 channel that uses say even 75A. Combined that is 125A. You will be drawing more current with the two amps than you are with 1 amp and thus, your electrical system will need to be able to provide that extra current. In that case, 1 amp would be a better choice since it draws less current for one, has less wiring, and saves space. Now, if the reverse were true, being that 2 amps draw less current than 1, then going with 2 amps would be the better choice.

And I will agree hands down on deadening. I believe in it so much that with my previous car I spent about $600 deadening, and I wasn't close to being done. I still needed to do my roof, floor, and firewall. I had done my trunk, trunk lid, rear deck on the top and bottom, hood, front doors, partially on the rear doors to minimize road noise, rear seats, rear quarter panels, C pillars, and wheel wells. It was in an Accord sedan and it was quieter inside than driving my G35.

From personal experience, I don't use Dynamat or even Dynamat Xtreme. I find that there are better products for cheaper. Dynamat is not as thick as Second Skin Damplifier and it's too tacky, so in case you need to remove it because you placed it in the wrong spot, you'll have a tough time with the Dynamat Xtreme. I used Damplifier and Damplifier Pro and the Pro I thought was a waste, but after I used it, it is well worth the money and saves time. Raammat is pretty good deadener, I'd put that above Dynamat Xtreme since it's about the same thickness and a ton lot cheaper. I haven't gotten to using Cascade, but I heard it's a great product that would do well against Second Skin. I found Dynamat Xtreme to be pretty thin, especially for what you pay for it, the Damplifier easily wins that showdown. The one thing I will advise you stay away from is eDead deadener by Elemental Designs, not even worth buying. I've seen people use Fatmat, but I wouldn't touch it. I'd go with at least Raammat.

 

Only thing that I have seen with going with 5 channel amps is that they do tend to heat up faster due to the fact they are sharing one circuit board and chassis. The benefit is less wiring and smaller footprint generally, just be ready for possible faster shutdown due to thermal overheating. I really don't look to any sound to come from the rear, except a little rear fill for the passengers in the back seat. Hell, I ran my last two cars with no rear speakers whatsoever because I can't stand to hear them. Now that I have a sedan instead of a coupe, I will be more likely to have passengers. I guess they deserve to hear a little something.

 

Not mine, lol. I used to have an Accord and I only had a fronstage. Didn't have the rear speakers hooked up at all. They couldn't tell the difference. I'd say try and see how it works without the rear fill, because I know exactly what you mean, it completely throws off the soundstage.

 

Yup its going to be in there so I don't get "can you turn it up, I can't hear it!" Otherwise, full fade to the front! I've never been to a concert and had my back to the band. The people riding in the back did not pay for my car, audio, insurance etc.... so it's more so I don't hear the whining and I can enjoy the music. My boss at my first custom car audio shop I worked at said to me "Why are you doing this?" I said "I love working on cars and making kick a** stereos" He said "No, it is because you love music and it moves you." How true, how true.

 

Ah I see, makes sense. The fade thing didn't occur to me, rather I didn't care, haha.

 

Here is what I went with:

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=432 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 324pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 15798" width=432><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17>Alpine IVA-W505 DVD Receiver</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17>Alpine TUA-T550HD HD Radio Tuner Interface</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17>Alpine NVE-P1 Navigation Add-in Unit for IVA-W505</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17>165K2P UV (Upgraded Version) - Focal 6.5"</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17 x:str='165CVX - Focal 6.5" PolyGlass Coaxial '>165CVX - Focal 6.5" PolyGlass Coaxial </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=16><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=16>Box21V2 - Focal 8" Polyglass Enclosed Subwoofer</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17>FP5.500 - Focal 5 Ch 4x45 + 1x200 Watt RMS</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17>Alpine PXA-H100 IMPRINT Audio Processor</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17>Alpine KTX-H100 MultEQ Tuning kit for PXA-H100</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 324pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=432 height=17>PAC SWI-JACK JVC/Alp/Clari/Ken Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Will an 8" free air sub fit into my 2006 Non-Bose sedan? I would much prefer this setup. Thanks for all of the suggestions.

 

Very nice setup. Make sure you deaden the doors, trunk, back deck and other various places. Good wires make all the difference in the world too. I will tell, you are going to be spending ALOT of time with that processor in tuning. Once you have it done that should be a serious sweet setup. Is the 8" going into the back deck where the factory usually is. If so, you might want to double layer the mounting area with deadening material to reduce as much resonation transfer since that sub will be getting alot more power and producing a much large frequency range than the factory. Remember, "All highs no lows, its got to be Bose!"

 

I would like to put it back there but I'm not sure if it would fit. It's in a sealed box now, wouldn't it need to be a free air woofer to go in the deck? Also, I've got the non bose setup so I'm not sure it would work from that standpoint. That being said I would still prefer it in the deck.

 

That is what I was going to say about the back deck. Its nice and convenient, but definately does not give that low of frequency response since it is not in an actual enclose. Even using a free air woofer and the trunk being the enclosure, you just don't get that bottom end.